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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-13-2012 04:00 PM
Pupsvette76 Still haven't cut it I decided to do the metal repairs first I will be getting to cutting very soon now as we found a location and will be building the place out soon...
11-01-2012 05:23 PM
Originally Posted by Rebuilder View Post
Or you could use an industrial diamond wire cable to cut the whole thing in half including motor/frame....
Or, you could do it this way.....
11-01-2012 05:04 PM
Rebuilder Or you could use an industrial diamond wire cable to cut the whole thing in half including motor/frame....
10-21-2012 07:56 PM
matt167 I did a Ford Ranger with a $39 Skil brand Saws All. used a mix of Lenox, lenox gold and kobalt blades. Used a dozen blades or so but I wrecked several when I ran into inner structure/ too short of a blade.

A jig saw will also work, and your cut can be easier/ more precise for cuts thru things like the roof.
10-21-2012 06:22 PM
farna You can get a decent sawz-all (reciprocating saw) for under $50. With the right blade you can use it on anything, even to cut firewood, so why rent one? You'll need plenty blades -- I cut up a whole wreck like the wagon in my avatar, I think I used 8-10 blades. The big unbraced panels (like the roof) will be the hardest to cut. You can use an abrasive blade on a HD skillsaw too. Abrasive blades are a bit expensive and don't last long -- take you time if you go that route and don't force the blade through, that REALLY eats them up!

I've seen a car cut and hung on a wall similar to what you're doing, but it was cut roughly along the fender/hood line down the side of the car. There was maybe a couple inches of hood tacked in, just enough that the whole side of the car could be used. The doors would open and close, but not enough room to climb in! No "frame" -- wheels were bolted directly to the wall. Something like that would be a better bar ornament (I saw it in some car museum somewhere...).
10-21-2012 06:54 AM
deadbodyman I'm with Ponch on that one ,Its much easier to make a second cut when your just cutting a little strip and you'll have total access from all angles , you can make a very accurate finish cut. 1 1/2 - 2" masking tape works great just lay it out with one side dead on center and cut the other side first..
Good save Ponch ,Forgot to mention that...
10-21-2012 06:20 AM
poncho62 I wouldnt cut it right down the middle first cut. Especially the top panels. I would leave at least a few inches, so you can make a final clean cut after its already cut, if you get my gist.
10-21-2012 06:09 AM
deadbodyman The lenox blades are also very good,either one will do a great job.what you dont want to do is get a cheapo blade ,they'll just pee you off and turn a fun little job into a PITA..
Something else you might get while your at Home depot is a few sticks of 3/4" electrcal conduit ,they're cheap and make great braces just cut to length and smash the ends flat then use a big drill screw (3/8 head) to fasten it to the body
10-20-2012 09:01 PM
1971BB427 Get the Milwaukie "Torch" blades and you'll get through the cut with almost no bent or broken blades! They're a bit more money, but much heavier material that wont go away as fast as cheaper blades.
10-20-2012 07:17 PM
59RAMBLERSUPERWAGON Sawzall is the way to go, get extra blades, use blades specificaly for metal. Tape guide, brace, then have fun hacking the hell out of it. Don't be suprised when you snap or dull a blade, they are a disposable cost of the job. Done this many times to make trunk couches, etc.just have fun, your cutting a car apart, channel your inner redneck and get to it son!
10-19-2012 06:17 PM
1971BB427 I agree with Brian. I'd cut from the top down, as the body might buckle when the bottom is cut in half, and then you'll have to fix it before you use it. If you cut the top, hood, and trunk lid first, then all the good body parts will remain good. The undercarriage doesn't matter if it gets a little deformed or not perfect, as it wont show.
10-19-2012 01:13 PM
123pugsy Lots of pics please.

Good luck with it.
10-19-2012 10:14 AM
Pupsvette76 I have already removed much of the things that would be on my way frame with engine and trans ( it's just a front subframe) rear end fuel tank seats inside and I will def brace it I have the car sitting on top of some logs So I can start anywhere I want to start cutting But I believe cutting the floor is best u guys are right I wanna keep everything consistent so I will prob cut it while it is completely assembled and just go right down the middle
10-18-2012 05:51 AM
deadbodyman yeah,you can rent a sawzall at home depot for about 10.00 a day, for a more accurate cut use masking tape as a guide,its quickand ez,,,
Once the flor has been cut through leave the rest and cut from the roof down,,this way as the roof is cut the gap will open insted of closing up and binding the blade...if you find the blade keeps binding you can use wood wedges or cedar door shims (also at HD) to keep the gap open
10-17-2012 01:49 PM
Originally Posted by Pupsvette76 View Post
Any idea what a saw like that goes for?
And specifically where should I brace diagonally across the cab?
You can probably rent a swa like that if you have an equipment renatl place nearby.
Get the ear and eye protectors with it!
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