|10-26-2012 02:47 PM|
I use a Gear Vendors hydraulic O/D unit behind a T-5 on a '32 Chevy Confederate sedan and also behind a 700R-4 that is really worked over in a 41 Chevy Master coupe. Both work well and were not a hassle to install. The biggest job for me was to locate the Manual Control switch set in the dash of both. I like the manual down and shift up feature. Instead of 5 forward on the T-5 I now have 10. I'm happy but certainly not cheap but a true worthwhile investment. I bought mine through a Four Wheel Drive shop off Arden way in Sacramento. My mileage improved too.
|10-22-2012 05:26 PM|
|vht||I'm used to drag racing, thats heavy to me. I had a 70 chevelle, 450 hp 454 back in the late 70's, anther 1 later on with a 427, 4 spd that ran 11.50's off the street when I didn't break anything. The 70 was always my favorite. This 72 is growing on me.|
|10-22-2012 04:28 PM|
your car isn't heavy... 3500-3800(bbc) with all iron parts and a/c
my 70 with buckets/ac/pw/pl/bbc/th400/12bolt was 3850 wet
it was 3476 after the alum intake/heads fiber hood and non stock seats, headers,
|10-22-2012 02:14 PM|
|vht||They didn't recommend a 700R but it wouldn't make a difference, I don't want one. The 200R4 seems to be the way I'll go since I talked to Extreme transmissions. My car is heavy, and that is what I worried about. Weight will kill something before HP will. I'll stick drag radials on it at the track and it'll never have a trans brake. Anyone know of a good shifter for something like this? Rachet or spmething else?|
|10-21-2012 08:26 PM|
but yet that big trans co. will sell ya a 7004r right...
|10-21-2012 05:16 PM|
|vht||My wife drives it, so no standard shift, the 700's are crap, gear ratios, won't take any serious hp. I know what a 4L80 is, heavy, floor clearence problems etc. Don't want electroniocs so I'd have to go with a manual VB. The PG has got a lot of good stuff, everytime it was apart I tried to improve on strengh. Never could afford the aftermarket case. So I might get $1000 to $1200 out of the glide, big loss. The GV would be a good choice but expensive, I have other things to do to the car and I'm not made of money, that's why doing it once would be good. I've drag raced for 30 yrs so a 200r4 and a GV is something I know nothing about, never had either in my dragster, so thats the reason for advice. The 200r4 would be the easiest but when you have a big trans company tell you they won't hold up makes me worry. However I found Extreme transmissions in Cinn OH close to me and he said he can build 1 to hold. I was hoping to find someone on here running 1 that had 6 or 700 hp to see how's their's held up and if there was anything extra I should do to help it live. What racing stuff I got I spent a long time aquiring, and now with the economy I'm selling for a 1/4 of what I gave, so I like to do a little research before I spend my money.|
|10-20-2012 11:22 PM|
I'm confused.. you have a p/g thats got at least 2-3k's in it..
but worried what a good built 2004r will be..
if it was my chevelle.. (I had4 and 1 elcamino)
I'd sell the fresh p/g and get a built th350 or th400 and the g/v
and you'll have 6 gears
no idea where you are from.. but art carr is on the west coast and there are 2004r builders on the east coast..
g body's guys flog the crap out of them..
like your p/g . it needs aftermarket stronger hard parts... to live..
a 4l80e that you don't want is a th400 with a o/d on the back..
the 7004r/4l60e the o/d is in the front..
the 700 has a mile long drop from 1st to 2nd gear..
for the money you are going to drop.. why not drop a tremic 5 speed in it..
they have bolt in kits for these cars.. and with hyd clutch won't pound on your knees
|10-20-2012 09:28 PM|
|vht||I've got a shorty glide but it's got the straight cut, billet plan, with the unbolt rear shaft. Stock case, with Coan internals and it's pretty fresh. From what I've found, the GV will run me $3000 to $3500 for the shorty. I could sell the trans and build a 200R4 but that looks like a chunk of change also. My glide has a pro brake valve body that I'd have to change and I'd have to go with a manual shift valve body which I don't like. The 200R4 could be set up to shift on it's own, but with around 650 hp, and more later I don't know about the 200R4. You don't see hardly anything in Summit or Jeg's for them. You have to go to Art Carr, or someone that builds them and then another $250 in shipping, plus some of them want a core. Coan advised me to steer away from the 200R4, and so did the guy that does my trannys. I don't want the 4L80, so I'm just trying to figure out the best way to do this once. My glide has a 1.80 1st gear, the 200R4 ratio's look good for my heavy 72 chevelle, but if I have a problem, I don't want to have to ship it back to who knows where. It was a whole lot easier drag racing. Not near as much to think about.|
|10-20-2012 08:15 PM|
I've built powerglides with Gear Vendor on the back for monster trucks, diesel powered dragsters, land speed racing.
I'd say the unit is tough. Talk to Gear Vendors, the units are not all built the same depending on intended use & power.
Land speed racing unit is setup different than a unit in a dragster
|10-20-2012 07:52 PM|
|vht||They say they're tuff. I knew about them but I guess never payed attention. doing some research.|
|10-20-2012 07:41 PM|
Friend of mine who built a 48 Ford school bus (shortened & chopped) has one behind a Turbo 400 and a 454. It's been going strong now for about six years.
|10-20-2012 07:32 PM|
Anyone know of the best deal on them? Friend of mine said I could use my shorty glide out of my dragster. It's got all Coan stuff in it along with a high dollar planitary. He said with a 4.10 gear and the gearvender on it would swich to a 3.20 ratio. He said they were good to like 1200 hp. From what I seen their around $2800. Alot of cash but would work out better if you could get away with a 4.10 gear. Anyone on here running 1?