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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-27-2012 06:43 PM
Old Fool
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakeroadster View Post
Galvanized pipe has issues also. The galvanize will start to flake off, check out this article by Exair, very informative: Compressed Air Piping
Made me laugh when I read "vic" connections are easy. Well while it is true, I do not think many will have a grooving machine to groove the pipe before the easy installation of the actual "vic" coupling.

I have ran miles of grooved pipe, 2" to 12", copper,black iron, galv,stainless, and plastic. It is fast and easy once you have thousands of dollars of equipment purchased, lol.
Personally I like type L copper for air lines, fast simple, one time install, and easy to modify when you need another connection at a later date.
10-25-2012 04:40 PM
lakeroadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdupree View Post
If you are going to use iron pipe, be sure to use galvanized pipe. At a former employer, they installed a new air system, all of it in black iron pipe. Inside of about 6 months, the inside of the pipe was already rusting and generating lots of rust that clogged the insides of air tools, etc.
Galvanized pipe has issues also. The galvanize will start to flake off, check out this article by Exair, very informative: Compressed Air Piping
10-25-2012 12:49 PM
K72Nova
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I would be very surprised if a compressor with that capacity had only a 1/2" outlet. The pic appears to have a reducer bushing in a much larger bung. Looks like a nice compressor. I have the IR match to it. It runs most of the time to keep up with my blast cabinet and runs full time with my pressure pot.

The copper will transfer heat faster than pipe. I have 50' of black iron threaded across my ceiling for cooling with 3 drops to drain off water. I had read the galvanized coating was thin inside the pipe and people had problems with it flaking off and clogging fittings so I used the black. It's been in there 8 years and no rust issues...

If the drain valve is still under the tank, buy a street elbow and run it out to daylight. MUCH easier to turn the handle out where you can get at it.

I'll have to run out to the garage tonight and check out the outlet, Iím hoping youíre right about the reducer, I've heard the same thing about galvanized. The drain valve sticks out just enough for it to not be a problem; Iíve heard of other people having issues with it so Iím wondering if it was something that were corrected through the years. Thanks for the input
10-25-2012 07:03 AM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by K72Nova View Post
Sounds like I'll have to give Quincy a call and see if there is a way for me to hook up a 3/4 outlet.
I would be very surprised if a compressor with that capacity had only a 1/2" outlet. The pic appears to have a reducer bushing in a much larger bung. Looks like a nice compressor. I have the IR match to it. It runs most of the time to keep up with my blast cabinet and runs full time with my pressure pot.

The copper will transfer heat faster than pipe. I have 50' of black iron threaded across my ceiling for cooling with 3 drops to drain off water. I had read the galvanized coating was thin inside the pipe and people had problems with it flaking off and clogging fittings so I used the black. It's been in there 8 years and no rust issues...

If the drain valve is still under the tank, buy a street elbow and run it out to daylight. MUCH easier to turn the handle out where you can get at it.
10-24-2012 03:58 PM
E.Furgal
Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill View Post
it really makes no sense to run a larger line then the fitting on the compressor is. if u look for more storage of air then a lg line is ok.. IF u want flow... then make sure the fitting from the compressor is the largest it will take. the smallest part of that line is an "orfice" and u can not flow more air then that part will allow. and thats the ID of any part on that line.
my outlet at tank is 1"
and I'm running 1" all the way to the outlets for the hose..
the dryer is only on one outlet, for painting..
water seperating filters at the other 3 ..
10-24-2012 10:27 AM
K72Nova Sounds like I'll have to give Quincy a call and see if there is a way for me to hook up a 3/4 outlet.
10-24-2012 07:38 AM
delawarebill
forgetting one thing..

it really makes no sense to run a larger line then the fitting on the compressor is. if u look for more storage of air then a lg line is ok.. IF u want flow... then make sure the fitting from the compressor is the largest it will take. the smallest part of that line is an "orfice" and u can not flow more air then that part will allow. and thats the ID of any part on that line.
10-24-2012 07:30 AM
E.Furgal
Quote:
Originally Posted by K72Nova View Post
There are actually 3 types of copper, and even the lowest grade (Type M) has a working pressure of 326 PSI @ 250F, even if that was the stuff I was going to use it would work. The question was never the rating, durability or strength of the copper but the heat transfer comparison to black iron pipe. My original intent was to use black iron; however after talking with a friend of mine about what he has plumbed shops around here locally with and pricing out the final system with copper being the less expensive solution, I chose copper.
good luck..
10-24-2012 06:57 AM
K72Nova There are actually 3 types of copper, and even the lowest grade (Type M) has a working pressure of 326 PSI @ 250F, even if that was the stuff I was going to use it would work. The question was never the rating, durability or strength of the copper but the heat transfer comparison to black iron pipe. My original intent was to use black iron; however after talking with a friend of mine about what he has plumbed shops around here locally with and pricing out the final system with copper being the less expensive solution, I chose copper.
10-23-2012 10:02 PM
E.Furgal price it again. there are 2 types of copper pipe..
tell them you are running 150psi in it..
not 10psi cold water
10-23-2012 09:58 PM
K72Nova Copper would be cheaper for me based on current prices at my local lowes, $.26 cheaper per 10' length. I also have a plumber friend who is going to give me fittings he has laying around from old jobs. Another pricing issue with black pipe is that a 6' pipe costs $1.95 more than a 10' pipe, I'm not too sure how much rental cost of a pipe threader is.. I could have lowes cut down 10' pipes to exactly what I need but the convenience of being able to easily cut copper to length on site is a plus.
10-23-2012 08:10 PM
E.Furgal
Quote:
Originally Posted by K72Nova View Post
Lots of suggestions for black pipe, what if the cost was the same or a little less for the 3/4 copper? I was under the impression that copper transferred the heat just as well as iron pipe to deal with condensation? As for people stealing it, I'm not too worried about that, I have things in my shop that would be worth much more to someone that they could get out faster and more easily; also I have security in place to prevent that sort of thing.. Hopefully
you haven't priced copper in a while..
the roll of romex I bought 5 years ago was 39.00
the other day it was 119.oo for the same roll of copper..
10-23-2012 07:26 PM
timothale
how many tools ?

Size would depend on how many tools will be running at once, If you do it your self labor cost wouldn't matter. I took over as facilities manager at a factory and they had 1/2 copper main lines and the first day I could hear the air screwdrivers slow down when 3 or 4 people were working the same time. I always over size , conduit and plumbing systems, cooling water, Air, etc. you need some reserve capacity, If you have to rent a power threader , or make changes later copper is easier,
10-23-2012 07:14 PM
no-scar-no-story Another choice is aluminum. The fittings are a little expensive, but for ease of installation and corrosion resistance, it can't be beat. Transair is the brand I used in a couple of commercial buildings.
10-23-2012 07:13 PM
K72Nova Lots of suggestions for black pipe, what if the cost was the same or a little less for the 3/4 copper? I was under the impression that copper transferred the heat just as well as iron pipe to deal with condensation? As for people stealing it, I'm not too worried about that, I have things in my shop that would be worth much more to someone that they could get out faster and more easily; also I have security in place to prevent that sort of thing.. Hopefully
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