|10-25-2012 10:36 PM|
I agree with you. Just think getting it done at the shop has some good points as well.
In my area shops are happy to offer the sucker price. My wife took her deville in for brakes and the shop called said it needed rotors which it did need the one. I had already looked at it. They said it needed all four and they were special rotors cause its a caddy and the cost 189 each. While i was talking to the guy i hit rockauto.com and looked up the rotors bendix 29 bucks and 12 bucks for rear. Price seems right since they fit most big gm vehicles. These breaks are on freakin everything. I was upset and they offered to lower the rotors cost to 40 bucks each after saying the price on the net was wrong. I picked up the car and had to call in a favor to get them swap by a freind since i had to get on the road. If you were in md i would take my car to you for the big jobs i dont want to take on.
|10-25-2012 10:13 PM|
If the OP has some mechanical knowledge and some patience he can do it and try and save some money.
|10-25-2012 09:42 PM|
|10-25-2012 08:58 PM|
1200 being a bit high even in your area labor has to be 80-100 an hour. How many hours you figure to r&r a vette rear. Its does take time. You know the tech is not going to make his flat rate unless he does them everyday.
I do agree they are easy enough to do. Just lots of hard work that needs to be right if its going 100k miles. Just want to give the best advice based on car and work needing to be done. If it was a ragged 89 mustang i would have different advice. As the job is easier and car does not have large collector value. A vette with a toasted indepentent rear is parts. New rear done by a good shop is 3k more at time of sale. So that is where my advice is coming from.
|10-25-2012 08:01 PM|
Any shop that charges more just because he see's a Vette badge is a BS shop. The Vette diff is not any more difficult that any other diff but the gear sets are a little costly. Once you have the diff on the bench the labor should be reasonable.
If that 1200 includes: Posi.. gears.. complete O/H kit and bench labor..Its a little high. If a posi was not included than it's too high.
If you wanna try it yourself get ya some parts and we can walk you thru it.
|10-25-2012 07:27 PM|
For anyone intersted, here is a link to the hot rod article I built my motor around. I did pretty much everything they did except my heads are different.
Small-Block Chevy Build - We Increase The Cheap 350's Grunt To 420 HP - Hot Rod Magazine
Also...here is a link to an article that did a comparison of several different cheapo heads. Mine are in there and are the floo-tek's. Might be useful to other folks.
Eight Budget Small Block Chevy Heads Tested - Car Craft Magazine
|10-25-2012 07:20 PM|
Tech i am not disagreeing with you simply saying 1200 is fair these days. Ive seen ppl pay 1200 for brake pads. if you local mech is legit help his kids have a good christmas. Figure on bushings and other items that need to be repaced. Its best to get it worked out once and never worrie about it again. Im sure we can find some vette guys to tell you how bad they got shafted getting this work done. I know its just a gear change but we al know something may look great but when it comes apart you will find everything else that is wrong. I am happy when i take a gear cover off and see all the teeth on the ring.
Some jobs are better to take to the shop and drop it off. I do all my own work but dont recommend that to others let someone else break there arse on that rear if you have the option.
|10-25-2012 12:06 PM|
|10-25-2012 09:36 AM|
That is a big cam, plus you have an auto with 2.76 gears . Not good for driving fun. If you had a nice restoration take advantage of the long strokes torque boost with a reasonable cam. A cam with duration and lift like that is going to sound like a demented popcorn maker. Weird but that sometimes people like that. They make for poor overall performance, from a drivers perspective, to me at least. If you had .450-.470 lift it would make a sexy bubble. You made what made. Now spend a day swapping the ring and pinion to 4.10 and pay the piper.
If you built it for that cam, you should have gone high stall, big gears. Hot rod did this build?
Nothing to be scared of using a 262. Dynamically it is a better choice.
Finish the combination you made and enjoy it. It will be highwayable with 4.10s , just busy.
|10-25-2012 08:32 AM|
Change to comp cam # 12-256-4... Much better with your 277 gears and stock converter.
Plenty of get up and go. Not every car needs a hige cam.
|10-24-2012 09:27 PM|
couple typos, trailing "arms" and 1962 technology not 1062,sorry. the 1963 corvette has the same suspension we have now.
Also if you have the low profile hood I have to assume your car is down on power as there is not enough room under the hood for a good intake.
You can put 3 inch exhaust through the transmission x member if you do not have side piped
|10-24-2012 09:27 PM|
In my youth i put gears in a bunch of cars by just feeling if the pinion was sticking. If it was, move a shim from one side the other or the other side if to loose. Usally the shims dont change much with just a gear swap. But..
Total rebuild is the way to go do it once and be done. Vette rears always cost money if you can get it done for 1200 parts labor drop the car off tonight. With 370 gear you will break the tire loose at 10 mph for 20 feet. Even 308 or 355 whatever sizes they have for your car would be a big change.
Trans do a th700r4 it is lighter than the 400 can be rebuild cheaper in higher hp trim. But dont runa stock one they can be had built in 1300 range shift kit and carb manual/auto lockup kit. It will pay for it self in gas if you keep the car long enough.
|10-24-2012 09:21 PM|
I use 3.50 gears in the same car as yours.I went from a 4 speed to a 5 speed.My O/D works out to almost the same as what I had with none o/d and 2.73 gears. The diff is a little bit of a pain to work on. Before you change gear sets,make sure you have the Dana 44 not the Dana 36. These are reasonable weight cars and they hook quite well.If you really need to go 3.73 gears make sure you have the 30% O/D.No reason for you car to be slow off the line.Not a big fan of big hydraulic flat tappet cams but it should work well from 3,000 to 6,000 rpm.
NOTE: when you are under the back of that car,dont be surprised if it needs trailing are work and all the bushings. If you have soft or single fibre glass transverse spring,then that too needs to be upgraded to stop the car from squatting on launch. The car can be very difficult to launch and keep straight. When I did my car I also upgraded the 1/2 shafts and u-joints to big block or better.
Now that you see closer to 2k,you might consider up grading to a true independent rear suspension.The car has 1062 technology in the suspension
|10-24-2012 09:05 PM|
Great!! Here are some diff guys if you need parts or help....
Moser Engineering - Moser Engineering - Home
Ring & Pinions, Front Axles, Rear Axles, Differential Covers and more from G2 Axle & Gear
PRO GEAR DIFFERENTIALS - San Diego's Original Gear and Axle shop. Differential parts and repair.
|10-24-2012 08:57 PM|
IMO, a thumper cam with its narrow LSA coupled with the 2.73 gears would make for a real dog off the line and give up alot of midrange acceleration even with a slightly higher than stock stall convertor.
A 270HR cam with just a 3:42 gear would make enough of a night and day difference to justify the cost. But then again, I'm not the one paying for it and I don't know if your more concerned with HP numbers or a broad torque range from idle to redline. How often do you turn 6500rpm?
I don't care for the bigger cams on the street as they use alot of gas, don't have the same instant off idle throttle response, and wear out an engine sooner because of the higher optimun rpm range. I much prefer the good driveability of milder cams, but then again it may be because I'm getting too old.
I've attached a link to a site that you can download a Static/Dynamic CR calculator that I think is one of the better ones around. I would try to give you some numbers for the cam I suggested, but I don't know the required parameters of your engine.
I will say that using Comp Cams camquest software and what I'm approximating your engine specs are, that I get about 450 ftlbs of torque as low as 2500rpm with a peak of over 470ftlbs at 4000rpm, and 415HP at 5000rpm useing Comp's pn 12-420-8 270HR. I'm not saying thats the best for your application or driving style, but I know it would put a smile on my face, but thats just me.
calculator site location
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