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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-26-2012 06:45 PM
1981zapper Now that i think about it, this summer i changed the filter in Qjet, and when i went to loosen the nut on the line, the metal line kinked and put a hole in it, so i cut the line back and put a rubber line on, do you guy's think that this rubber fuel line is collapsing at W.O.T?? especially on the bend?
10-26-2012 11:33 AM
Custom10
Quote:
insert 80's Glam rock cassette tape, I reccomend skid row, and go drive the sht out of it....then try some more timing and see how it goes.....
Thats a good one, reminds me of that Mr. Lube commercial,,,canadian style 80's,,,my favorite,,,love the look on the gals face too haha

10-25-2012 10:42 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1981zapper View Post
i made sure that the piston is at TDC, i then droped in my distributor
Off a tooth maybe? Have you tried pulling it and reinstalling? Back to the start now, you said it was running fine before, but was that back in June? What I'm getting at is could the problem have been there last week but you hadn't driven it enough to know? If that's a possibility then you could be on track with a combination of bad gas, carbon build up, fouled plugs etc.....so, if its me, and I'm confident the dist is right, and the timing is right, throw new plugs at it, get some fresh good 92+ in it, set your timing conservitive, insert 80's Glam rock cassette tape, I reccomend skid row, and go drive the sht out of it....then try some more timing and see how it goes.....
10-25-2012 10:28 PM
1981zapper i made sure that the piston is at TDC, i then droped in my distributor
10-25-2012 10:18 PM
1981zapper
Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Just because they line up, doesn't make it accurate ....
lol yes i made sure that the piston is accurate with the timing marks
10-25-2012 10:17 PM
Custom10 You need to get the #1 piston at TDC first right? using piston stop

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center
10-25-2012 10:16 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1981zapper View Post
i have already done that, i made sure my 0 on the balancer lines up with the 0 on timing tab
Just because they line up, doesn't make it accurate ....
10-25-2012 10:12 PM
1981zapper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom10 View Post
I know, what we mean is that checking for correct tdc and balancer tab accuracy ensures that your timing light readings are accurate, balancers can slip etc
i have already done that, i made sure my 0 on the balancer lines up with the 0 on timing tab
10-25-2012 10:09 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
First problem your chip moduale says gm on it. You need an after market one. Stock one drops off at 5500 or so. If you dont already, buy a kit with recurve, moduale, coil, cap and rotor the works. Then google for hei setup usally you need to make several small adjustments for bigger cams. And usally all work toward restricting advace from mechanical and vacum and using more inital advance.

I wont go over all the steps here i have seen great stuff on the web for hei setups. With lots of good close up pix.
Not really the first step no......stock intake, 624 heads, and even if the cam is large by huge, its all done by 5500 with his set up....stock module is just fine.....the car ran fine, the the dist was removed and reinstalled, then he had issues....
Step 1 = find tdc and make sure balancer and timing tab make sense...then move on.
10-25-2012 10:09 PM
Custom10 I know, what we mean is that checking for correct tdc and balancer tab accuracy ensures that your timing light readings are accurate, balancers can slip etc
10-25-2012 10:05 PM
1981zapper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom10 View Post
agree, could be getting 45 btdc actual,,, and reading 36, check TDC and balancer tab accuracy should always be #1 thing before the light goes on it
when i say 36* total that's without the vaccum advance hooked up, i have it plugged
10-25-2012 10:05 PM
Custom10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
First problem your chip moduale says gm on it. You need an after market one. Stock one drops off at 5500 or so. If you dont already, buy a kit with recurve, moduale, coil, cap and rotor the works. Then google for hei setup usally you need to make several small adjustments for bigger cams. And usally all work toward restricting advace from mechanical and vacum and using more inital advance.

I wont go over all the steps here i have seen great stuff on the web for hei setups. With lots of good close up pix.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...EI_distributor
10-25-2012 10:01 PM
Custom10
Quote:
find true tdc, get a timing tape on it and a dial back light and start from scratch....typical hei has 20 degrees built into it. But without knowing your initial is what you think it is your kinda guessing here....
agree, could be getting 45 btdc actual,,, and reading 36, check TDC and balancer tab accuracy should always be #1 thing before the light goes on it
10-25-2012 09:59 PM
hcompton First problem your chip moduale says gm on it. You need an after market one. Stock one drops off at 5500 or so. If you dont already, buy a kit with recurve, moduale, coil, cap and rotor the works. Then google for hei setup usally you need to make several small adjustments for bigger cams. And usally all work toward restricting advace from mechanical and vacum and using more inital advance.

I wont go over all the steps here i have seen great stuff on the web for hei setups. With lots of good close up pix.
10-25-2012 09:59 PM
bygddy If its full of carbon, and sits around that much, get the timing sorted out, your likely going to want to limit total to 34 or 35, get the highest octane pump you can get, and go drive the damn thing and clean it out lol.......good gas, and a little abuse (assuming its not rattling anymore with conservitive timing) will do wonders, once its de- carboned (is that a word) then you can sneak back up on the timing to see what it wants for maximum performance....
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