|10-27-2012 12:57 PM|
The other reason is that they concentrate on removing the high or low spot when they the entire panel needs attention. Example, lets say you have a low spot on a door, if you block only on that area to remove the low spot all your doing is making the low spot bigger, spreading the low spot out if you will and giving the illusion of straight. This will seem fine until the piece is painted and you look down the side of the vehicle checking out that beautiful reflection and you find you have a "house of mirrors" look.
When ever I work on a vehicle and the customer demands that "gotta be perfectly straight" finish, I walk the panel when blocking. Also check your work after blocking by first cleaning the blocked area, drying it and then wetting it down with a pre-paint cleaning solvent and check your reflection at about a 45 degree angle. Pick something in the background as a reference point and move your head back and forth, up and down focusing on what ever you picked in the background as your reference point. When it looks like a mirror without any warbles in your reflection you know your panel is straight.
Hope this helps.
|10-27-2012 12:28 PM|
|mr4speed||Widetrack has a very good point here. When your blocking and a low spot is found, it usually does not just "go away" because the guide coat has been sanded off. Almost 10 times out of 10 it is usually still there, especially if you are using anything other than a hard flat block. Just remember that half the thickness of a strand of hair in a low spot WILL cause a ripple.|
|10-26-2012 06:36 PM|
|69 widetrack||Remember to clean the old adhesive off with thinner. I do a bit of teaching at the local College and the first thing I tell the students especially after a panel has been guide coated is that their block is NOT an eraser, to many times I see they have a low spot and they try to work that area extra hard to get that guide coat off...like an eraser in grade school. Get rid of the foam and let the paper do the work. Your job is to lightly move the paper and block, the paper's job is to level and straighten. The nice thing is when you do it right, you get credit for both.|
|10-26-2012 05:51 PM|
I have a complete set of Dura Blocks but my boss wont let me use the long boards, he says there not straight. We do have the 3M ones and I like those. Most of the cars we do hae long quarters and doors.
When we color sand we start with 500 grit dry and wooden paintsticks but I will hae to give the plexi glass a try.
The avater pic is a car I have to do in spring. Since its glass it has alot of imperfections. I am definitly going to take the pad off of those Hutchings boards and see what happens.
|10-26-2012 12:11 PM|
|tech69||I like my set up, which is a set of durablocks, a 16" 3M long board ( for a truer result than dura blocks), a piece of pvc coping or vacuum attachment, and a super soft motor guard block. Couldn't ask for anything more.|
|10-26-2012 11:41 AM|
|cyclopsblown34||Is there a thanks option for this entire thread?|
|10-26-2012 10:32 AM|
|novafreek6872||Another thing I found that worked nice to block out a run was an old, hard as a rock, piece of 3/8 air hose that I cut about 1 1/2" long and wrapped paper around. I found it easier to pinpoint my sanding over say a small block of wood or a paintstick. Like you said widetrack, you use whatever you can find to do the job at hand...|
|10-26-2012 10:13 AM|
|69 widetrack||Absolutely correct on all counts, whatever the individual uses to get the panel straight. I've used led pipes, my wife's curlers, I even used an orange one time to get a recessed body line correct and even for 4 feet on the car.|
|10-26-2012 08:36 AM|
I like this durablock (top), which I use with or without a paintstick depending on how ridgid I want it to be. Usually with paintstick for body shaping and just the durablock for blocking with finer grits.
|10-26-2012 06:57 AM|
3M also has the hard boards, They worked but, designed so that ease of operation meant using 3M sheet roll. I find If I'm doing a box side or a rear quarter on an old Dodge Dart, I want something ridged, straight and a piece I won't have to replace often. That's why I went with the home made milled billet.
Like I said, it's all personal preference, not one defined right or wrong way, that's what's so great about places like this, we get to share and discuss ideas and learn.
|10-26-2012 06:47 AM|
|Trucknut||I'm really happy with Durablock. Just bought another one yesterday. I have a long one and needed a shorter one. Yes, they are foam rubber, but hard enough to get the job done well.|
|10-26-2012 05:11 AM|
I use the Durablocks along with some others that are more rigid.
I even use a wood 2X4 piece.
the nice thing about the Durablocks and the wood ones is they are
so easy to true up.
Take some stick-on 80 grit paper and stick it
to a flat surface (like my countertop) and run the block
over it till it's even.
None of my blocks are that true when new.
the Durablocks sand easily and really show the low spots
If I want a really rigid Durablock, I can attach a piece of
plexiglass to it. Round the edges a little with sandpaper
to remove the sharp corners.
|10-26-2012 12:32 AM|
Take the foam off...did I mention...take the foam off...I haven't used a foam bottomed board for, well all I can remember is that when I originally bought one, and one only, after a couple of uses, I took the foam off. Just clean the glue residue off with thinner and You have a usable tool. So many of these tools are preference and all I trying to convey is my preference. I' sure some people may disagree and that is within their right. This is what works for me.
|10-26-2012 12:19 AM|
|bighotroddin||I think most of my problems are comming from the foam pad over the aluminum.|
|10-26-2012 12:14 AM|
Just to reiterate...I know it can be expensive to do what I suggest but these are tools that I make my living with and build my reputation on. Nothing wrong with buying an off the self block and Hutchings make some of the best...I do understand.
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