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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-28-2012 09:46 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjack010 View Post
Gave a shot at determining stall tonight. Brakes would hold til 1800rpm. I know that's not a real accurate way to measure since I'm not sure if that was the true stall speed or if the brakes just give at that point. I tried to get flash stall speed but it was damn hard by myself. I did record it and looked like 2200 but the tires were spinning. I'll try a few more runs tomorrow.
Drum brakes on the rear? Adjust the shoes out against the drum before leaning on the brake pedal.
10-28-2012 08:04 PM
jjack010 Good advice, thanks. I installed a Moroso 4 hole 1in carb spacer that I've had sitting around for a while. I felt a noticable difference in seat of the pants power. Especially mid range. Hopefully Wednesday I can make time to install the roller rockers.

OH! And I finally looked at my engine casting number.............14016379. From my research- 350 1977 - 79 2 or 4 bolt main bearings. Are there any other stampings that would tell me 2 or 4 bolt main?
10-28-2012 05:46 AM
F-BIRD'88 Most of the used vortec heads floating around for sale are cracked. Thats why they are being sold off.
The good vortec heads that are not cracked are reused/rebuilt when the L-31 vortec truck motor
is rebuilt and put back into service. Good vortec heads rarely end up in the junk yard.
The junk ends up in the junk yard or on craigslist. (cracked fubared vortecs)

When buying used heads you need to be able to ID junk...
if it won't pass a mag check, whats it worth?

The reason there are so many cracked vortec heads around is the stock vortec motor had a cooling system problem.
that destroyed the heads.

Any used vortec head you are considering buying should be mag checked for cracks, BEFORE you pay.
10-28-2012 12:52 AM
vinniekq2 call scoggin dickey the gm dealership and ask about the performance vortecs
10-28-2012 12:49 AM
jjack010 What's a reasonable price to pay for a set of vortec 906's? Found some locally, guy says they are fresh from machine shop. Dang, they are a lot more expensive than the early heads.
10-28-2012 12:27 AM
jjack010 I may actually look into that. I know nothing about vortec "stuff." Scared to take the plunge, but I continue to hear even a stock vortec head makes great power. So will everything else I have work with the vortec intake and heads.......distrubutor, carb, headers, etc?
10-27-2012 10:35 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjack010 View Post
I'm not worried about the stall, just trying to learn everything I can about the truck. It pulls hard down low so it should be pretty close to what is recommended for weight, cam, etc. Also, finally found the weight of the truck......3800lbs. At least it's the lighter of many full size trucks.
Swap the heads for Vortecs, paying attention to the static and dynamic compression ratio and quench distance. Attention to details makes a LOT of difference in the final results.

Use a matching Vortec intake like the Edelbrock RPM. Keep the 750 carb. Use long tube headers w/dual exhaust w/a connector between the two sides aft of the collector and before the mufflers.

Recurve the distributor- this will help regardless of anything else you do.

See what the cam is that you now have. You could have a roller block- if so use a hydraulic roller cam and lifters if the cam needs to be changed from a flat tappet cam and lifters. You can pick up the lifters, dogbones, spider and cam retainer off eBay. Info on what blocks to look for is here.

If you want to double check the weight, take it down to the recyclers and weight it on a drive-on scale. Some dumps also have a scale available.
10-27-2012 07:51 PM
jjack010 I'm not worried about the stall, just trying to learn everything I can about the truck. It pulls hard down low so it should be pretty close to what is recommended for weight, cam, etc. Also, finally found the weight of the truck......3800lbs. At least it's the lighter of many full size trucks.
10-27-2012 07:17 PM
vinniekq2 your numbers sounds realistic.Why are you worried about stall?get the engine dialed first.dont change rear gears to match any cam,the gears are for the cars purpose,same with engine and trans.change one item at a time.
10-27-2012 07:08 PM
jjack010 Gave a shot at determining stall tonight. Brakes would hold til 1800rpm. I know that's not a real accurate way to measure since I'm not sure if that was the true stall speed or if the brakes just give at that point. I tried to get flash stall speed but it was damn hard by myself. I did record it and looked like 2200 but the tires were spinning. I'll try a few more runs tomorrow.
10-27-2012 05:56 PM
jjack010 I do have them listed cheap. I don't prefer them but someone will want them. I think i have a starter issue so on to a new thread for the time being.
10-27-2012 05:50 PM
ap72
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjack010 View Post
I have the heads and gear drive listed for sale locally. There is a pair of 186's for sale local but i think he wants tk much for them. I don't really want to spend the money on a super charger, yet. I am interested in experimented with some novice porting though.
unless you find a poor sucker those arts are only worth the price of scrap iron (heads) or the cost of a roller timing chain (as it works better than the gear drive).

List it cheap and hope for a sucker.
10-27-2012 04:43 PM
jjack010 I have the heads and gear drive listed for sale locally. There is a pair of 186's for sale local but i think he wants tk much for them. I don't really want to spend the money on a super charger, yet. I am interested in experimented with some novice porting though.
10-27-2012 03:44 PM
F-BIRD'88 Trucks are very heavy. They need a lot lot of power and torque to get good "performance"
You should consider supercharging that motor. It already has blower friendly low compression ratio.

The low cr stock crate motor heads can be improved with hand porting. DIY, not worth paying for porting these.

Even tho these are lame stock heads they are a better start point then the 882 head. (better end result after DIY porting)

that + a blower + a moderate blower friendly cam =s a fast street truck.

Very effective on trucks. 400++HP and lots of truck torque with a 142cid blower.
Sell the gear drive (and the 882's) to someone you don't like
10-27-2012 03:40 PM
F-BIRD'88 Getting rid of the 882 heads is easy. Just carry them out to the curb on trash day.
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