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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-09-2012 10:41 AM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caballerokid View Post
Where could i maybe get a better deal on the Dart heads? Summing has taken very good care of me so far but ive never purchased heads before.
If they have been good to you stick with them. Jegs is often cheaper so are alot of other places. Most local speed shops could give a better price than that as well but most are pretty tight on the prices.

Did you call them and ask if they had the heads you wanted in 76 cc. Im sure they got something that will work. Maybe find a model number you need and do a little shopping on the net and ask summit to match the price.
11-09-2012 09:12 AM
Caballerokid Again cant use a vortec head. The chambers are too small.
11-09-2012 09:11 AM
Caballerokid Where could i maybe get a better deal on the Dart heads? Summing has taken very good care of me so far but ive never purchased heads before.
11-09-2012 09:10 AM
engineczar I've built a couple of engines this year using these:

Vortec Hybrid Marine Cylinder Head with Heat Riser | eBay

Talk about cheap HP if you're trying to use an intake you already have. I was skeptical but the quality was excellent. Throw in some valves and springs from Competition Products and for under $600 you have yourself a nice top end.

In your case the chamber is also too small (64cc)
11-09-2012 09:09 AM
Caballerokid I can't use those heads. The chambers are too small... that's why i asked about 76cc iron heads and 72cc aluminum heads.
11-09-2012 08:13 AM
hcompton The dart heads are a no brainer at 465 each its not a bad price for an ***. head. They are ready to bolt on and go.

Redoing the heads is not always practicle. In my local area machine work is not cheap. But if you got a friend of a friend you can call in a favor for them maybe it will work out to be cheaper but the dart heads are going to make more power than rebuilt heads. So in the end if your not getting the heads done for less than 500 its going to be better to spend the 900 on the upgraded heads. But depends on your budget. also dont forget summit is usally not the cheapest place to buy heads.
11-09-2012 07:27 AM
ap72 For the money these heads can't be beat: Assault Racing Bare SBC Small Block Chevy Aluminum Cylinder Heads Straight Plug 350 383 400 - KMJ Performance

Buy them bare and assemble with some light valves and beehive springs and you'll have a very nice set of heads that are perfect for hot street applications.
11-09-2012 12:04 AM
Caballerokid So not to beat a dead horse here but i have been doing tons of research. Heres where i'm at... I picked up a set of 441 heads for dirt cheap (couldn't pass them up). Now is it worth the money to completely go through them, bigger valves, back cut the valves, mild port and polish work, ss swirl polished valves, valve job, guides done yada yada yada... or should I just pick these up? I'm easily going to spend that on these heads... so what do you guys think, where is my money best spent here? Thanks
11-02-2012 10:26 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caballerokid View Post
Thats great and all but thats not much cheaper than going the blower route. That route would be roughly $4000 all said and done. The blower route would be about $4,500 - maybe $5,000 plus with the blower I'd probably have the potential to make nearly 600hp??? If I would need to go big, why not go all the way? I'm just asking... for all the work I would do to replace all that and make that kind of power, why not throw the blower on it and make more hp for only $1000 more? Now if we're talking like $2000 or more difference I could see not going all out and maybe staying a little more conservative, but $1000 idk. I haven't made my mind up yet because it is still only a 2 bolt main motor. There is still a 3rd option on the table... throw this out all together and weld in an LS motor for that price with a decent turbo. Idk...
you should be able to upgrade cam and heads for about 2000 and maybe some change for other updates if needed. I could hang a set of reman garrets on the tbi for about the same. blower would be 5 g's and will make your problems worse.

Did you check the DCR, CR and SCR are good but the dcr will tell you if its going to knock and how you can add a little cam to fix it. or take some away to max the torque peak. But I am not the best person to explain dcr maybe someone else can jump in on that one.

motown world of products heads with 210cc runners and comp magnum 294s flat solid cam unless you have roller already with high compression is a great combo but its not going to work for every engine. got to figure out the dcr then go on the safe side for pump gas and higher rpm heads.

Hope this helps.
11-02-2012 09:28 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
just buy an engine and bolt it in
I've grown weary of this thread also.
11-02-2012 08:52 PM
vinniekq2 just buy an engine and bolt it in
11-02-2012 08:36 PM
Caballerokid Thats great and all but thats not much cheaper than going the blower route. That route would be roughly $4000 all said and done. The blower route would be about $4,500 - maybe $5,000 plus with the blower I'd probably have the potential to make nearly 600hp??? If I would need to go big, why not go all the way? I'm just asking... for all the work I would do to replace all that and make that kind of power, why not throw the blower on it and make more hp for only $1000 more? Now if we're talking like $2000 or more difference I could see not going all out and maybe staying a little more conservative, but $1000 idk. I haven't made my mind up yet because it is still only a 2 bolt main motor. There is still a 3rd option on the table... throw this out all together and weld in an LS motor for that price with a decent turbo. Idk...
11-02-2012 08:20 PM
cdminter59
More TQ than HP???

Let me show you what you could do with a set of out the box aluminum heads. About 180-185cc intake runners, 72cc chambers, 2.02 & 1.6 valves. A.015 steel shim head gasket. A solid roller camshaft 12-771-8 XR280R .570/.576 lift and 242/248 duration @ .050. Your short block and a Victor JR with a 750 Demon Carburetor. On the dyno from CamQuest this combo would make Peak HP 431@5500, Peak TQ 441@4500. Add 2.08 valves and pocket port the heads and gasket match heads and intake. The peak HP would be 512@6500, 470 TQ@5000. Your compression raio would be 10.571 and the DCR would be 8.613. I don't think the deck clearance will be no more than .025 when checked. So this engine will have a .040 quench. The DCR being a little high mix some 93 and 110 octane gas 4:1. You wouldn't have to worry about detonation and you could add timing if you need it.
11-02-2012 08:08 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport View Post
A 360 inch engine with 3.5cc domes, a .055 deck, .015 gasket and 76cc heads is only about 9.4:1. I think the knock you are fighting is due to the excessive quench. Get some 70cc aluminum heads and you will have pump gas compression.
1. Please refer to post #30, where I figured his SCR at 9.75:1 and DCR at 8.76:1.
2. The squish is 0.055", not that far off the preferred mark of 0.035" to 0.045".
3. He has 76cc heads now. Smaller chambers will raise both the static compression ratio and the dynamic compression ratio and will not change the squish. How do you see that as helping?
11-02-2012 06:44 PM
Caballerokid Are you saying .555" lift is too small for a blower? That would be the cam i would use instead of the one i already have. The one i already have would take me to 13.5:1 cr at 6lbs of boost. Also why would you not blow a motor but rather turbo one? Theyre both stupid expensive... If i were going blower route the whole motor would be different except the bottom end. Also 400hp isnt my end goal. I want to make at least 400hp. More is better but at least 400.
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