|11-24-2012 11:00 PM|
|19chevytruck90||Nah, been busy working and hunting. Got my deer now though so maybe next weekend I'll have time.|
|11-18-2012 07:18 PM|
|69 widetrack||Then it sounds like it should look awesome in the sun...All the high points will look electric...Any luck on the polishing yet?|
|11-18-2012 07:01 PM|
|19chevytruck90||You can see the pearl with the garage lights on but I can't get it to pick up on camera.|
|11-16-2012 04:57 AM|
I wish the best for you, and hope you don't need to respray the truck...Glad to hear that your looking at about 60 degrees...Still colder than what paint likes but if you left it for a couple of hours between base and clear, chances are you'll be OK...Still do the tape test just to be sure.
Can you see the pearl effect with the lights on in the shop or does it show black only?
Good luck and keep us up to date.
|11-15-2012 10:38 PM|
|19chevytruck90||I'll try the duct tape thing and let you know. Hopefully I don't have any problems. If I do I guess I'll just do it again lol|
|11-15-2012 10:37 PM|
I gave it several hours (took a nap :p) before I cleared it. So far it's okay.
It wasn't ice cold, maybe 60 degrees +/- with the heater cranked.
Now we have sun almost every day and I'm stuck at work from dark thirty a.m until dark thirty p.m :p Lame.
|11-13-2012 07:13 AM|
Congratulations in getting your truck painted...It is important to have the right temperature when painting or runs will happen to the best of us. If you got runs in the base, they could be sanded out with a fine grit on paper, I use 600 wet to remove dirt nibs or whatever I don't want in my base. Then just re-base the sanded area and then clear.
Depending on how many runs you have and how severe the hanger's are, you may want to sand them out and re-clear the truck. I can't advise you on this because I can't see the truck or the severity of the runs.
I don't want to alarm you but, if you have runs in your base coat and given that you mentioned a lower than optimal temperature for painting...I hope you left more than sufficient flash time before you cleared it. If proper flash times weren't allowed for and solvents in the base have not all evaporated before clearing they will try and come out even after the clear is cured. This, and I'm not trying to alarm you, could cause the clear to peel in the future. I would let the clear cure through thoroughly and do several tests. Try putting a piece of duct tape over an area where you had a run in the base, apply a significant amount of pressure on the tape and then rip it off quickly, like a bandaide, if the clear stays on, it's a good sign...You may also want to try and pressure wash the truck. If solvents are trapped a cleaning with a pressure washer will take the clear off and you will know that solvents where trapped in the base under the clear.
Again, I don't want to alarm you, I am suggesting these things because I want you to be aware of what could happen and it would be a shame to have you color sand and buff the truck, only to find that the clear won't stay on.
I painted a early 90's Oldsmobile for a friend in his garage many years ago, it was cold outside (-25), and warm inside. He opened the garage door to see what was happening just long enough to shock the base. It felt flashed, it looked good, I cleared the car, put it all back together the next day. First car wash all the clear came off. So temperature is very important.
Best of luck and hope you get that sunny day soon.
|11-12-2012 11:14 PM|
Got it painted and cleared.
Had a bit of an issue with the gun I was using, or more accurately my style of holding the gun. I kept bumping the air control knob and it caused some runs in the base coat.
And it wasn't quite warm enough in the garage I was using so the clear kinda, slid down I guess? as it cured leaving some pretty ugly rungs as well.
And I managed to lay a fair bit of orange peel in the clear as well. So in short I have some sanding and buffing to do in the future I guess.
For now I'm happy with my first attempt at painting. I think it'll look even better covered in mud
Still some parts left to put on but it is starting to look pretty wicked
Id really like for it to get sunny out so I can get the whole affect of the pearl in a pic. But it is Nov in WI so I might be waiting a while yet....
|11-09-2012 05:35 AM|
Good choice...If you haven't done it yet, check your pearl content on your mixing stick before you apply the base...You'll be amazed how easy it is to get a great effect.
|11-08-2012 10:58 PM|
Thanks again for all the help. I plan on painting tomorrow.
I'm going to nix the flames for this project. I was supposed to have all week to get it painted but couldn't get it to fire and run so I could move it to the shop.
Finally got it going this morning and got it over to the shop and blocked it out tonight.
So I am gong to do the black with blue pearl in it over the whole truck.
It's not the flame job my heart desires but it'll still look pretty sweet, especially next to most of the mudders around here
|11-05-2012 10:52 AM|
|11-05-2012 12:58 AM|
|11-04-2012 10:25 AM|
When i was painting my motorcycle,i went to Walgreens drug store,and bought small bottles of very small flake,very cheap,that the women use in their fingernail polish ,it is ALMOST a ghost paint. looks very neat.........
|11-04-2012 08:13 AM|
Thanks Mark and I do appreciate what you are saying...I also appreciate that no offence was taken as none is meant or implied. But, I do disagree with you and I guess that's why I love this forum.
#1 is not a moot point. I have tried to repair a paint job I did many years ago with pearl in the clear. It was extremely difficult. If it's in the base coat its a simple blend, if it's a "repair in catalyzed clear with pearl" it's a tri-coat blend multiplied by a factor of at least 4. You would need to lay down base over the repaired area and beyond and then try to blend your catalyzed clear over that area hoping you get an invisible repair and then again using catalyzed clear over top...
Which brings me to #2 cost. Your using an expensive top coat clear as your carrier...it just makes sense that it costs more money.
#3. Even if you put a thin layer down...isn't it thinner with base coat versus a higher bodied clear and don't you want your flame line to be as thin as possible?
#4 Yes any paint product period runs the risk of error. I'm again talking about repairablity in the both. If you get an imperfection in base coat it is easier to repair than an imperfection in clear ...would't you agree?
I'll add #5...If your adding pearl to clear...aren't you custom mixing? Or is there a formula for this from a paint manufacturer (not a web site) that I'm not aware of?
I respect the fact that this is your method of choice and we may need to agree that we disagree. I'm just speaking from many years of experience and hoping to pass on information from past experiences as I am sure you are and I thank you for that.
By the way, I did make a mistake and you where correct...nowhere did the OP say he wanted pearl on the whole vehicle...my bad.
|11-04-2012 07:47 AM|
Hey Ray, points well taken and no issues on my end but I will rebut your comments.
#1 is a moot point. ANY paint work with a pearl additive makes repair work more difficult, Whether it's in the base or clear top coat it will make an SOB of the match job.
#2. Cost was no different then if it was a straight repaint other the the cost for the bottle of pearl powder. That was 15 bucks if I remember right.
#3. The flame pattern was laid down in a very thin coat. When I untaped it I knocked down the edge a little with 800 grit and then simply sprayed on the rest of the top coat. I had to do very little sanding to knock the edge down after it was buried in the final clear coat. Most of the work was done in less then an hour.
#4. Another moot point. ANY paint application with pearl additives will run the risk of errors. Just make sure you don't make any. My truck was sprayed in my garage during a rainstorm. There was no booth and, granted it's not perfect, but the clear topcoat is very sandable without getting into the flame pattern underneath.
In my opinion this is a very good way to go. It was cheap and simple to do with off the shelf paint and no custom mixing.
I will not hesitate to use the same method when I get to the paint stage on my van build. OTHER then shooting a couple of light coats of topcoat to seal the base before I start laying out graphics. I will also be using the pearls and candies from the website I listed in my first post.
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