|11-07-2012 06:00 AM|
|hman17024||Thanks for the replying I'm going to look a lil more it to getting a newer front cross member I'm not an expert hot rodder but I'm try so I really do appreciate any advise. Going to do some. Digging around at pick n pull this weekend so hopefully I can find wat I need with out going broke|
|11-06-2012 10:04 PM|
My 66 also had the 8.875 GM (12-bolt TRUCK) rear end, which was also used right through until (iirc) 1981. They're fairly stout, and also an easy swap.
Be sure to grab the 11-5/32" x 2-3/4" rear brake assy's as well.
If you go with a mid-70's 4x4 as the "donor", it will have the same 6-bolt pattern as your 63, retaining a somewhat "stock" appearance.
CPP or Classic Industries have the 6-bolt rotors for the front to match the spindles and calipers from your "upgraded" cross-member.
I love this aspect of the swap. ALL of the brake parts as well as ALL of the front steering and suspension on my truck are all 1976 C10 / K10 pieces (except the rotors of course)
NAPA part numbers for everything are in my journal.
|11-06-2012 08:57 PM|
I think I remember 63 having the newer frame. I know 62 doesn't and that's why I had to do a little work to make the 62 jimmy bed fit on my 65 chevy. Could be wrong though.
To the OP:
Do like 66GMC says and swap in a newer 73-87 front crossmember. I plan on doing that with mine, and going with an explorer 8.8 in the rear. I would suggest leaving the trailing arms in the back. They're the hot ticket. I like them so much, I plan on retrofitting them to my 96 c2500 eventually.
|11-06-2012 08:33 PM|
IIRC, though, the frame was flat, and didn't have the "kick" where the front cross-member bolts up. Here's a pic of my 66 GMC frame, so you can see what I mean.
The newer (1976) cross-member was all but a "bolt-in" swap, (see my journal) but the stance is just a bit wider.
I *still* don't have it on the road yet, but I'm hoping it will be fine.
|11-06-2012 07:40 PM|
The '63 frame is a good one. The trailing arm rear suspension was kept untill 1973 and was the basis for todays current NASCAR "truck arm" suspensions. In regards to the front end you can swap in a newer crossmember, or just upgrade your existing suspension with kits from someplace like CPP.
I sure wouldn't swap in a newer complete frame... that pretty much doubles the required skill level of the builder.
|11-06-2012 06:19 PM|
The right frame for a 63 c10
I have a 1963 c10 that I have been working on off and on and I have been debating weather to stick with the stock frame and swap out the the rear end wit a 12 bolt and go about getting a better suspension like every one else dose or swap the body on to a newer frame and go about it like that to get the ride a good ride quality that way?? I need I ideas. Any one know which way would be better to get more bang for my buck? Any replays would be greatly appreciated