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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-12-2012 08:01 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
I work in the serv dept at an import dealer so we have accounts everywhere, but primarily deal with bensons who does stock many hi-po after market parts at their Cornwall store, will check into it more tommorow.
Yeah jegs tries to be the lowest advertised among the big compaines. I checked online my self that does look like the best deal going.
11-12-2012 07:56 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
440 for a flat cam does seem very high. Dont pay retail. Somone will sell it cheaper. Even if you have to call them and beg for dealer price someone will give you some kind of discount if you talk nice to them. That just seems to steep. Like the suggested retail price they never use in the store. Try jegs if nothing else.
I work in the serv dept at an import dealer so we have accounts everywhere, but primarily deal with bensons who does stock many hi-po after market parts at their Cornwall store, will check into it more tommorow.
11-12-2012 07:53 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Is that price from the US? UPS or US mail?
how much was the UPS broker fee? US mail service- Canada post is a lot cheaper. You pick it up at your local post office.
Usually a shoppers drug mart nearest your house.

Did you try sourcing that cam and the lifters locally?
Starting at your local CTC parts counter. (you'd be suprised)
Next stop would be your local auto machine shop thats hooked up with Motorstate.
They can get all this stuff. pays to shop around.

You won't need to take any gear out of the car. just put the good Isky valve springs on, when you are ready to do that.
It will rpm and MPH for you. Thats the whole idea of the solid cam. The 4.11's are just right.
That was jegs, shipped to my door....with lifters....I have an account with Bensons who deals with keystone, they can get anything overnight, I will price out through them tommorow....but I have compareded in the past and generally i order a bunch of sht at once so jegs winds up cheaper....ordering one thing like this I'm not sure tho so I will see tommorow.
11-12-2012 07:46 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Is that price from the US? UPS or US mail?
how much was the UPS broker fee? US mail service- Canada post is a lot cheaper. You pick it up at your local post office.
Usually a shoppers drug mart nearest your house.

Did you try sourcing that cam and the lifters locally?
Starting at your local CTC parts counter. (you'd be suprised)
Next stop would be your local auto machine shop thats hooked up with Motorstate.
They can get all this stuff. pays to shop around.

You won't need to take any gear out of the car. just put the good Isky valve springs on, when you are ready to do that.
It will rpm and MPH for you. Thats the whole idea of the solid cam.
440 for a flat cam does seem very high. Dont pay retail. Somone will sell it cheaper. Even if you have to call them and beg for dealer price someone will give you some kind of discount if you talk nice to them. That just seems to steep. Like the suggested retail price they never use in the store. Try jegs if nothing else.
11-12-2012 07:43 PM
F-BIRD'88 The exhaust system needs work to make power and torque.
If you are good with a chop saw and a mig, its not that hard. A lot less work than the exhaust system on my bird was.

You can use those headers and the side pipes as a start. Some 180deg U bends and straights and the Y collectors and you are good to go. You got lots of room to work there. And all winter. If you are good at slash cutting and welding the pipe you can make your own Y collector transitions.
11-12-2012 07:35 PM
F-BIRD'88
Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
That's actually the current plan and what I'm saving up for. The used motor I picked up I'm going to go with some cheapish forged slugs, stock crank and rods, arp through out, and find a set of heads cheap and bolt on a blower....likely take some gear out of it due to the giant torque curve and go run 11's for very little cash......but for now, I'm going to use that lunati you listed, I priced it today and shipped to my door I'm looking at 440$ taxes in with lifters....so that kinda sucks lol....but I know there are some places I can't cheap out on. I hope to hell cam and converter with a 275 drag radial gets me a 12 anything lol....then I will spray it into a high 11 and be happy as a pig in sht...!
Is that price from the US? UPS or US mail?
how much was the UPS broker fee? US mail service- Canada post is a lot cheaper. You pick it up at your local post office.
Usually a shoppers drug mart nearest your house.

Did you try sourcing that cam and the lifters locally?
Starting at your local CTC parts counter. (you'd be suprised)
Next stop would be your local auto machine shop thats hooked up with Motorstate.
They can get all this stuff. pays to shop around.

You won't need to take any gear out of the car. just put the good Isky valve springs on, when you are ready to do that.
It will rpm and MPH for you. Thats the whole idea of the solid cam. The 4.11's are just right.
11-12-2012 06:26 PM
bygddy Ignore the grime...here's the exhaust from top down


And then to the side, you can see the spiral flow welded in just after the elbow...then its straight to the back and no baffles
11-12-2012 05:00 PM
bygddy Cars up on jack stands now so i will snap some picks of my current exhaust and see what you think....
11-12-2012 04:58 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Or you can do a simple cylinder head swap to a low cr 76+cc home ported low buck 920-441-487 GM smogger head (people throw these out too)
and bolt on a 177 weiand blower. 550+hp on your near stock short block, cast pistons and all, with that lunati cam. A fraction of the cost of your "real motor" Because the engine compression ratio will be a low 7.5:1 (80cc heads -15cc stock dished pistons) and combustion is always under control the cast pistons never get into trouble.
The stock short block will take silly silly power as long as combustion is controlled and normal.
That's actually the current plan and what I'm saving up for. The used motor I picked up I'm going to go with some cheapish forged slugs, stock crank and rods, arp through out, and find a set of heads cheap and bolt on a blower....likely take some gear out of it due to the giant torque curve and go run 11's for very little cash......but for now, I'm going to use that lunati you listed, I priced it today and shipped to my door I'm looking at 440$ taxes in with lifters....so that kinda sucks lol....but I know there are some places I can't cheap out on. I hope to hell cam and converter with a 275 drag radial gets me a 12 anything lol....then I will spray it into a high 11 and be happy as a pig in sht...!
11-12-2012 04:25 PM
F-BIRD'88 Or you can do a simple cylinder head swap to a low cr 76+cc home ported low buck 920-441-487 GM smogger head (people throw these out too)
and bolt on a 177 weiand blower. 550+hp on your near stock short block, cast pistons and all, with that lunati cam. A fraction of the cost of your "real motor" Because the engine compression ratio will be a low 7.5:1 (80cc heads -15cc stock dished pistons) and combustion is always under control the cast pistons never get into trouble.
The stock short block will take silly silly power as long as combustion is controlled and normal.
11-12-2012 04:07 PM
F-BIRD'88 You get the Y collector from Flowmaster and the pri/sec tube bends from DynoMax.

you can make your own custom slip in muffler baffle inserts that slide in/out of the 3" side pipe
allows you to adjust the volume and flow of the side pipe exhaust system. You can build better swapable insert baffles than you can buy. Remove the baffles for drag racing... empty 3" side pipe.

You don;t need to pay a shop to do what you can do better and for less $$$.

Once you get the header- exhaust system flow/scavenging efficiency up, you can make this car silly fast with a basic nitrous system.
10 second street ride for peanuts.
11-12-2012 04:05 PM
hcompton You may be able to get away with 1 7/8 primaries on same style headers. They usally sell them a little larger than what is listed in the catalog. Just make sure your first bend is mandrel bent 3 inch then reduce will help alot with budget exhuast. Not sure how good what you have already. But you can see what i mean about the bend after the header being a large diameter to allow for good flow.

I love the look of side pipes but damn there are times when they sound bad. You have to drive with both windows down or the car sounds aweful. Unless they are quiet and balanced with cross over. Its better to have full on exhuast. Flowmaster probably makes a kit that is bolt on and will make almost as much power as open headers. Also a parts list to this kit may reveal that you only need a few custom pipes and the rest can be off the shelf pipe. But not sure about c3.

Also for 600 bucks a local muffler shop may build you a full 3" exhuast welded on and ready to last a ruff winter. Once you get to that amount of cash some shops wont let you walk out the door some will tell you 1500 just got to shop around.
11-12-2012 04:03 PM
F-BIRD'88 Paint the 305 heads with aluminum spray paint and really mess with his head.
11-12-2012 03:51 PM
F-BIRD'88 I'm having trouble picturing 3.5" spiral flows to a 3" side pipe.
The "muffler" insert goes in the 3" side pipe. If the flow tech shorties are not 1.5" primarys you can use them as the start/primary. Some of those shortys have small pri tubes size. should be 1.625" outside dia minimum.

The hedmans are a good buy and can be customized too.

this is the basic 4-2-1 long tube Y collector configuration

11-12-2012 03:49 PM
F-BIRD'88 for $600 you can do a lot of fabbing. Create your own 4-2-1 step long tubes w side pipes.

running 2 2.25 secondary pipes from the headers-ist Y to the side pipes 2nd Y collector is easier than 4 primaries.
The long tube 4-2-1 Y collector configuration using the flowmaster 4-2-1 Y collectors is very effective.
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