|11-19-2012 06:43 PM|
OOPS MY BAD....
|11-19-2012 05:42 PM|
|bodiebyles||Rear end checked out ok!! It is a 4 wheel disc car. I think it has the wrong propotioning valve. They sent two. I'm going to put the other on it. and switch the lines. I lost the fluid when I took out the adjustabel propotioning valve. I put a valve back that was in it. I think its a residual valve that I don't need anymore. Going to take it out. The car had disc in the front and drums in the rear. Had a Vacume boost system. If I can't get this Sh$$ to work it might go back on!!!!|
|11-19-2012 05:36 PM|
LATECH, I think he said it was a 4 wheel disc car. So maybe wrong boost unit, if it has a residual check valve built in it. Also, that fluid had to go somewhere, wheres the leak?
what happened with the rear gear? Is that OK?
|11-18-2012 03:28 PM|
[QUOTE=bodiebyles;1612759] I broke the rear line loose to change out the adjustable protional valve and the fluid was was gone out of the front of the mastercylinder?? Is it hooked up backwards??/QUOTE]
Yep. chances are real good that all the fluid leaked into the rear brake area. Pull the wheels to see. The residual pressure valve , holds pressure against the cups in the wheel cylinders to keep them sealed tight, without it, they will leak out.
Sounds like your master is hooked up backerds.
|11-18-2012 03:25 PM|
The large reservoir end of the master will be for the front disc system.
Start by putting it together like that first. Bleed it out good, then see what you have. Sounds like the master has a RPV in it for the rears and is locking the fronts down. A line switcharoo may be all you need.
|11-18-2012 12:48 PM|
|bodiebyles||I think the brakes were still sticking. I broke the rear line loose to change out the adjustable protional valve and the fluid was was gone out of the front of the mastercylinder?? Is it hooked up backwards?? Man I don't know?? Any Suggestions??|
|11-18-2012 12:21 PM|
|Richiehd||How did that turn the rotors blue? And the larger capacity goes to the rear? Usually the larger goes to the front discs.|
|11-18-2012 11:53 AM|
It has a willwood mastercylinder on it. It came with the system It has a large capicity in the front that goes to the rear , the rear half works the front. I have checked everything. I had a buddy for mine who was out of work( hesaid he was a mechanic) Ha!! I jacked it up and was checking the brakes out. And Low and behold I heard the rearend make a noise, That DumbA&& was changing the oil in the rear end. I have a rear grtill on it with a drain plug. He draind the fluid out, got a phone call and forgot to put the synthetic oil back in it!!! It is and Original 1969 12 bolt!! I think I ruined it!! I think thats the draging I was feeling!! I'm sick!!! Im fixing to tear it down and see what all it ruined!! I'm sick!! and I want to ring his neck!!! Thats the last time I help a friend out!! I'm sure this is going to cost me a grand or so!!! Live and Learn My Brothers!!! Live and Learn!! O yea he was a Gm ase certified Mechanic!!!
|11-15-2012 07:24 PM|
I am thinking that RichieHD has the right idea.
The brakes are dragging because the Compensating Ports are blocked in the master. Just a guess, but Thats what I am thinking.
The booster has a pushrod that sticks into the masters plunger. If the pushrod is too long, when you bolt down the master cylinder, it starts to push the piston into the bore. Inside the reservoir of the master, you will see a couple holes at the bottom. Those holes allow fluid to fill the cylinder,or bore of the master. If the hole is blocked, the cylinder is hydraulically locked ,the brakes will apply due to heat, which causes the expansion of the fluid, thus pushing the caliper pistons against the rotors, applying the brakes, causing more heat, locking the brakes even tighter untill ...
Those holes , or compensating ports, have to be open to allow fluid to return to the master after applying the brakes, and also due to heat expansion . If the holes are blocked, the pushrod adjustment should be shortened.
Knowing what to look for , I look into the ports in the master, as you should be able to see the cup, or seal, on the plunger, and whether or not it is covering the port or not.
A quick 5 minute check should reveal if that is the problem.
No reason to put a prop valve in the front system.
One other thing to consider is whether or not the master is for drum/ drum system ,or even drum disc, which could have residual pressure valves in the front and or rear outlets of the master cylinder.
If you have a drum /disc master , the rear of the cylinder is usually for the front system , has a larger volume reservoir,and has no residual valve. The front half would be for the rears, and could have a residual pressure valve in it.
If that is the case, and you have the front brakes plumbed to the front of the disc/drum master....that would be the problem. The residual valve is holding pressure and causing the brakes to drag.
Your post is a little tough to follow as you stated you put on a "hydroboost brake kit". That doesnt tell much about what the braking system actually is. Maybe you could elaborate a little more.
|11-15-2012 07:00 PM|
|bodiebyles||I think its in the propotioning valve, It has 4 wheel disc on it now. I adjusted all the petal adjustment as loose as it would go. They sent two proportioning valves. Maybe i should install the other one and see if that helps? I'm stumped!!|
|11-15-2012 12:02 PM|
was this a 4w drum car.. is it now front disc..
where is the residual valve on these in the master or the propotioning valve?
that valve holds about 15psi in drum systems.. and will do as you posted, as the fluid in the clapper gets hotter it'll clamp harder..
|11-15-2012 10:37 AM|
|11-15-2012 12:05 AM|
Hydroboost on a 1969 Camaro
I have a 1969 camaro that I put a 2006 GTO LS2 with a automatic trans and a D-1SC ProCharger on, I put a hydroboost brake kit on it, I'm having trouble with the front brakes dragging while you are driving it, The longer you drive it the worse it gets, IT turned the front 14" Rotors blue on it Saturday, That was the first time I drove it, I'm trying to get it tuned and I have to drive it for 30 minuets at 1500, 2500, and 3500, I have read the instructions several times and it is hook up right, I have all the air out of the brake lines, Have any of Ya'll had dealings with one of these? I would appreciate any Help, Advice,I could get, Thank Ya'll very much!!!!