Hot Rod Forum banner

Give me some ideas on prepping this thing

22K views 139 replies 12 participants last post by  deadbodyman 
#1 ·
Got a body here with about 50% peeling CC and 50% still in great shape. Its the original factory paint on the whole car.

Bad idea just to take the peeling parts down to factory primer and scuff the good parts and then shoot epoxy over everything? Do they even need to go all the way to primer or just get all the peeling CC off?

Trying to figure out the most cost effective, time and money, way to do this. But I definitely dont want any kind of failure later on.

Ideas greatly appreciated!! :thumbup: Sorry for the low quality pics

Andy




 
See less See more
2
#36 ·
Thanks guys... good info. Worked on it for 8 hours today... didnt get alot done but I did manage to get the nose section sanded down and ready for epoxy. I worked on a fender and a door too... I think now that I am just going to strip the top surfaces of the car to metal and sand the sides down to the factory primer with my orbital leaving a 220 scratch...then epoxy over everything... Car definitely has just the factory paint on it. Let me know if thats a dumb idea.

Car is in the garage now, safe and dry...
 
#37 ·
Hi Andy on the bumpers I'd say OK, leave the factory primer on, but remove as much as possible. if your using 220, try even a 320 (I know it will take longer but it's worth it) that way you won't cut into the plastic and you can always block out the primer to get it straight. The rest of the car I would take down to bare metal and you can use a more aggressive media like 80 grit. In a case where the paint is peeling the integrity of the original primer is in question as well as the top coat (Material is 25 years old) I would without a doubt strip it all to bare metal.

Ray
 
#40 ·
Block sanding

When I said do not block sand in an X pattern it was meant for the final sanding with the 600 to 800 grit paper. You should already have a good surface from sanding in an X pattern on the 80 or 180 grit paper during your prep stage before you switch to the higher grits. Sand with the direction of the car on your higher number grits. Always refer to the product data sheets for the final grit sanding. You can never go wrong if you follow their sheets
 
#41 ·
Been workin' on the car... still a long way off from epoxy prime, but working a few hours each day... most of the dissassembly is done, just need to get the driver side GFX off... GM put some tough paint on this car, the areas where I am going to metal are taking a while w/ 40/80 on my DA. I snapped some pics... but nothing is done...Ive been skipping around a bit

IROC pictures by andyspaintshop - Photobucket
 
#43 ·
Thanks Ray.

I have the pass side tore down pretty good... driver side needs handle, mirror, GFX taken off...Ive been skipping around a little to keep things interesting.

Only thing I have found repair wise seem to be the nose...it appears at least to me that the orig nose got crunched and they replaced it with a blue one...Im seeing layers of bright blue paint after sanding...they did a good job because theres no flaking and the fenders seem to have been unharmed.

I'm just taking my time...no need to rush anything... I do want to get it in epoxy quickly so I can get nova #2 back inside.
 
#44 ·
It all looks good Andy, it's great to hear that you haven't found any major previous damage...that's going to save you time and money...Also glad to hear that your not rushing it and taking lots of pictures, going to help the resale if that's the route you go.

Bumpers are usually the first thing to get hit...that's why they call them bumpers I guess...all good though.

I know even when I do a customer's car and spend a lot of time on it, the hardest thing to do is give him the keys.

Ray
 
#45 · (Edited)
Tonight I got the GFX off the driver side and the door handle and lock cylinder out, also mirror off. Got the window sweep off the driver door, which is a little tedious on these things, only b/c i needed a 7mm box end wrench and dont have one. I managed ok with a socket in a small vise grip...tight squeeze.

BIG box came from Summit today!! :thumbup: Two new dura blocks (11", 4"), rolls of 180 and 320 sticky back paper , scuff pads red and grey, green 3m tape, a Gal. 1:1 epoxy primer and catalyst and a Gal. High Solids clear/activator/reducer, quart of lightweight filler. Still need the base coat which will probably be Chroma Base. Other than some 500 paper and maybe some more paper for colorsanding...I should have everything covered material wise.

Couldnt resist doing some blocking with the 180 and my new blocks on a couple sections...WOW. Well worth it and I wished I had used the sticky stuff on my Nova! MUCH EASIER! I might add that the $17 a roll paper from Summit is GREAT! Made in germany stamped on the back of it too.

Also did some more paint stripping with 80 on my DA in "GRINDER MODE" and then while my comp was pumping up I would hit the same area with 80 on my dewalt orbital sander, worked good because I was always busy...not waiting, and gave my comp a break. I have a 60 gallon 220v plus a 20 gal. auxilary tank btw.

Won't be long now till I'm spraying Epoxy on this thing...hoping for a few warm days coming soon.

Drove the Nova to work today...:thumbup:
 
#46 ·
BIG box came from Summit today!! :thumbup: Two new dura blocks (11", 4"), rolls of 180 and 320 sticky back paper , scuff pads red and grey, green 3m tape, a Gal. 1:1 epoxy primer and catalyst and a Gal. High Solids clear/activator/reducer, quart of lightweight filler. Still need the base coat which will probably be Chroma Base. Other than some 500 paper and maybe some more paper for colorsanding...I should have everything covered material wise.

Your making me jealous with your big box from Summit! I'll be painting my '68 Galaxie this spring and I've already started the tear down and prep. Can't wait to place my order. :D
 
#48 ·
Your showing me up man...I havent even put my tune up parts in yet.:sweat:
but today I'll start cutting and buffing the big Duramax truck in the shop then I'll have a free bay again...I got the black base and SPI clear and epoxy and bondo just need a little time.
What kind of shape are those sweeps in ?I'll have to replace mine on both cars...any idea where you'll be getting the Iroc decals and other parts ? Finding the bumper covers is going to be quite a bit harder than I thought.
 
#49 ·
Hi dead, good to hear from you on this again. My sweeps are toast, but I read that new ones are avail for about $25 each. I'm pretty sure someone had the IROC decals and the black and silver stripes in a package deal for $120. Ebay has some cheap IROC decals, but I don't think they have the correct look.

I'm glad my covers are in good shape!!

LOVE my new durablocks... gonna make sanding this thing a breeze when I get the epoxy on. :thumbup: I did notice my 11" block has a very slight curve... is this going to be an issue? I have a joiner for woodworking and was contemplating running the block thru a couple time to get it perfectly flat. Bad idea?

The two blocks I got are the top two in the pic.

 
#52 ·
Im thinking what I might need to do is put it between two flat boards and put a heavy weight on top. The joiner will tear up the smooth rubber. Or maybe clamp it in my large vise between two boards for a few days even better.

Got the driver side of the car 95% ready for epoxy primer tonight, pass side needs work on quarter and fender, all top surfaces still need stripping.

This is funny, tonight I noticed the tires on the back say WIDETRACK something on them...must be fate :thumbup:
 
#53 ·
I don't know what your joiner looks like or how it works but if it's going to rip up the surface....not a good idea. I made my blocks from billet aluminum and milled them flat and smooth, then used my Hutchin's handles on them...you could drive over the things and wouldn't hurt them.

The tops are easier, not as many little nooks and crannies to get into, it should go quicker now.

WIDETRACK tires? who makes those?
 
#55 ·
Are the boards straight like pieces of 2X4's? That's why I made my own, had them for many many years and still hold their straight shape. I once had a 3M hard board that had a warp (3M Rep was going to toss it so I got it for free) in it and clamped a piece of steel on it and threw it in the oven for 45 minutes at 180 degrees...worked great...I don't know what yours are made of but it might be worth a try if what your doing now dosn't solve the problem.
 
#61 ·
That sounds like an orbital air file which are the best kind if you ask me ....I do a lot of wood working and and you can use many auto body tools ...I used my 8" mud hog to when my planer was down to level a mohogany coffe table ,I couldnt believe how well and fast it leveled the top with 80 grit..then I sprayed it with automotive clear It looks fantastic....I even fooled around with tinting the clear with candies on curly maple...WOW that was cool lookin
 
#62 ·
I know what you mean, I did my Maple kitchen table about 20 years ago with my DA and used over reduced base coat for stain, not that I didn't want to buy stain, just wanted to see if it worked and figured I'd be safe using base instead of stain not knowing how wood stain would react with clear, then cleared it with automotive clear, cut and polished it. Looks great even today.
 
#63 ·
OK, while you guys are goofing off and painting kitchen tables, Ive been working on my car!!! LOL

I've cleaned the whole car, finished up scuffing a few areas, and am masking off the windows now.

Its nice and warm in the garage, all those light really help, and around mid 50's outside. The car has been inside since yesterday.

Have to run to HF in a few to get a new respirator and hopefully find a bigger cup for my gravity gun, they show one online. Also some tack rags...then I should be spraying epoxy around 3 or 4 pm.

Report back later
 
#66 ·
I actually only stripped the panels and parts of panels with the bad paint. Roughly 65 - 75% of the car. The other parts were sanded with 220. I need to touch up a little filler work and block everything out. Is 320 too fine if I am planning to put high build on next?

I also need to fix some spider cracks in the front bumper, thinking of skimming on some flexible filler. Sound OK?

I'm really slow, I've just been working on it alot.
 
#67 ·
If your going from primer right to base, I'd use 320 and go over it with 400, the 400 is insurance because depending on product, not all 320 grits are the same. Some people may tell you to block it with 180 for ease of blocking and then hit it with 320 or 400. If that's what you do you're trying to eliminate 180 scratches with to fine a paper and the chance of the 180 scratch showing up in your base id very possible. I'm interested to see what other's say.

Ray
 
#68 ·
Ray, I'm thinking guide coat and 320 block everything, do my touch ups and spot prime what I need to. Then I'll go over everything again with 400 and 600 on a soft block.

I definitely need more coats on the hood b/c I can see some places that arent built up enough. Its possible I can epoxy everything and not need the 2k at all. Car is awfully straight.
 
#69 ·
Yes, I know I don't need to say this but I will anyway...just be sure you block it no matter how straight it looks, if you block with 320 then a quick guide coat in between the 400...and go over it again with a soft block with 600 you should be OK. The reason I say guide coat in between 320 and 400 is to get rid of the 320 scratches, you'll see what I mean when you do it.

Is this the epoxy you used on your Nova???and you mentioned it sands well?

Ray
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top