|11-16-2012 05:01 AM|
Both of the last responses are valid possibilities of what may be going on with your back brakes...as mentioned regardless of which side is causing the brake failure, do a rear brake job on both sides.
|11-15-2012 11:41 PM|
You could have a cracked lining on that side.
Does it do it the first couple of times you brake then act ok.
As a rule if one side is locking it's the other side that is stuck and not operating.
|11-15-2012 04:08 PM|
|1971BB427||If the passenger side locks up, I'd be inclined to think the sticky wheel cylinder is most likely on the driver's side. Most the time the side that's hanging up wont brake, but the side that brakes will lock up before the sticky one. Either way, as mentioned, I'd do both at the same time.|
|11-14-2012 04:05 PM|
|69 widetrack||Make sure the shoes are adjusted to the drum. Start bleeding at the cylinder that is farthest away from the master cylinder...pump up the brakes and hold the brake pedal down while someone opens the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder. Do this several times and then move to the drivers side...repeat until the brake pedal is firm...keep cheking the master cylinder to make sure you don't run out of fluid.|
|11-14-2012 03:46 PM|
im going to check the rear cylinder soon
the front disc brake are new
how do you proced for bleed the rear brake? same as the front ?
|11-14-2012 12:35 PM|
We'll start in the back, as I mentioned, check the wheel cylinders, replace them if leaking or not free, do both sides not just the side with the problem, same with brake shoes, check for wear, if replacing the shoes remember the shoe with the most pad on it goes to the rear of the car. Check your brake drums, if they have wear, ridges on the outside of the drum, get them machined or replace them (They are cheap now). If you put new brake shoes on, machine the drums at the least. If the mounting hardware is original from 1971, replace the hardware (springs, pins and locks). If you replace or rebuild the wheel cylinders you will need to bleed the rear brakes...If you need help with this I can try to explain it to you when you cross that bridge.
Take off your front wheels, check the pads as to how much life is left. You can remove the caliper with the pads loaded in the caliper to get a better lock. This will also tell you if they are riveted or bonded...riveted pads have holes in the lining that allow the rivets to hold the pad onto the backing. If they are worn, replace the pads by compressing the caliper piston...I use a C clamp. If the piston moves back easily into the caliper and there aren't any leaks your calipers should be OK. Check your front brake rotors for scoring or ridges...if there are any turn (machine) the rotors or replace them, (there cheap now as well).
Hope this is what you where looking for
|11-14-2012 12:21 PM|
the front its disc brake
but i want make sure
when you are driving and push the brake pedal ,not only the front is working , all the four whell ?
|11-14-2012 12:11 PM|
Rear wheel passenger side wheel cylinder looks like it's seized. You can check it by taking the wheel and brake drum off and try to move the top of the brake shoes back and forth, if they don't move freely, wheel cylinder time. If you replace or rebuild it don't just do the passenger side...do both rear at minimum. You may also want to check the front, are the drum or disc up front?
Hope this helps
|11-14-2012 11:42 AM|
when i push brake pedal , one wheel at the back lock
1971 nova disc brake conversion only at the front , rear is drum
everything works fine but when i push all the way the brake pedal , the rear wheel passenger side skide !!!!!
thanks a lot