I have a 427 t and the camshaft just went flat I did have a crane 266 in it and wasnt perfectly impressed I would like more torque out of it then I was getting its all stock including manifolds its a 4 speed truck with 3.73s and 32 inch tall tires
sorry to say, but cams going flat tend to eat engine bearings. you should check the bearings and crank.
if they are bad, then install a 4.000, 4.250 or 4.500 stroke crank for more cid and more torque. would need to change pistons.
headers help the mid range torque a lot!!
266 crane or a comp XE262 will be about the same. furthermore, if the crane cam went flat then the XE compcam will most likely go flat sooner due to a more aggressive lift rate.
make sure to use zddp oil additive during break-in and at every oil change. cost 10.00 extra at each oil change. todays engine oils suck.
could also try a BBC over cam oiler. They worked on my BBC's.
well I put the comp xe262h in it and in my opinion the crane 266 was more torquey but we will see when i get my truck behind it I will update you thanks for your opinion
ok ok ok I gotta say the xe262 pulls really hard I have got it tuned and towed a couple things lately and I gotta say it is better than the 266 so curtis thank you very much for the advice and its been a little over 3 weeks and no flat cam yet the first cam I put in it was one I pulled out of another big block about 2 years ago and it sat on a shelf wrapped up in a towel and had some light surface rust on it and I cleaned it off with a dry sponge Im thinking the lifters just didnt like that and yes I did use the same lifters and put them back in the same holes they came out of when I pulled it I broke it in this time with non detergent oil and ran delo 15=40 after break in this is my daily driven rig so its nice not having to of worked on it in a while and get to work on more fun stuff
Glad its working out for you. The opening ramps on the XE series are the next-to-most aggressive speed that Comp uses. Its a fast enough ramp speed to make really nice power without being concerned with accelerated lifter/lobe wear.
Those fast ramp speeds make a flatter and higher torque curve. I had an XE262 in a 468 I built for an old Impala Station wagon. Monster torque from just above idle to 4000. I ended up switching to an XE268 which was fine since I never really needed that much low-end for that car, but I missed the torque of the 262.
whats the matter vinnie ? Have you never changed camshafts with out changing valve springs ? And yeah the truck has 4.11 gears !
its a budget build just for fun to see what the truck will do I got the motor for free so to be in it for a few hundred bucks and get it deep into the 13s would be awsome
It can be done.The stock valve springs are fair and if you keep the lift moderate and dont use a cam with aggressive ramping you can get an improvement.
Yes Ive built budget engines. When we raced claimers, cheap was the only thing to do.
I would get used valve springs from guys running big cams,when they freshen the engine I would mix and match used after market springs. for small blocks,GM offered z-28 off road springs dirt cheap in the 70s,bought 8 sets. to get more rpm used those springs and just the centre from the retainers,
used after market cams and GM lifters
even stacked shims for low lift /long duration cams using stock ish springs.
Now days with all the good parts available and Im older,I use quality parts.
13s should be no problem for you,especially with a 454
120031-12 CL120031-12 269 279 215 225 .516 .527 112 108 Hyd. Hyd. 1
1200-5200 Great low & mid-range torque. OK in heavy vehicle.
something like this might work with stock springs,
And as cheap as vavle springs are if you not going nothing crazy for a cam I would always change springs a few bucks for springs now. Better than a hole in piston and cracked heads latter
the reason i say I dont wanna change anything is because of the sno ball effect and i am really bad about it next thing i know it will be a 6k "budget motor"
I highly recommend solid cams as a rule.most people here dont like the adjustments. A solid cam will need springs as the ramping is more aggressive.
396266 Z-66 2000-6000 .520 .020 268° 228° 108°
SOLID .520 .020 268° 228
Yea I get the snow ball I have 9 grand in. A 406 and im building a 421 stroker and going be bout 12 grand there but reason I say change them is everything needs to match in the engine or you will have problems if cam to big for spring they will fail and it wont be pretty and a solid lift cam will not work with stock springs
I have about 11 in my 434 street engine,my 454 in my 80 Camaro had 2200,not counting the engine re build(came with the car).camaro ran high 11s
434 corvette not tested or set up for drags
If you want to go mechanical flat tappet and want strong torque & mid range. Check out this Comp Cams CL11-674-4 with part# 911-16 for springs. The specs are .527/.532 lift & 218/224 duration. LSA 110 I/C 106. Recommended torque converter stall rpm range 1100-1900 (stock). According to Comp Cams simulator peak hp is 352@4000 rpms and peak torque is 531@2500 rpms.
if you're try'n to get more out of the truck. and it's a budget..
I'll save you some cash..
if you are not willing to change the valve springs (100-150.oo) when you change the cam..
save your money.. really, don't bother..
as the truck will slow as the valvetrain floats.. AND can bend a valve or if you are really rally lucky, drop a valve..
you're on a budget for a reason.. I get that..
but whats cheaper.. the valve springs or rebuilding the heads because the valves are now bent? and STILL having to replace the springs..
just because the engine was free.. DO YOU HAVE THE MEANS TO REPLACE IT, when you kill it? thats not what I'd call a budget build.. but it's your truck/engine
good luck
never enough time to do it right the first time ,but, always enough time to do it twice AUTHOR UNKNOWN
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