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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-01-2012 06:49 PM
ap72 I'm going to try and set the intake runner length as close to the ideal length as I can- maybe a hair longer since it is on the street. That's secondary right now to me getting it sorted out first with TFI and the edelbrock carb, then EDIS, then the bike carbs.

I'm also in the middle of painting the 280z and the Bobcat too- a LOT on my plate.
12-01-2012 02:33 PM
hcompton Steel works but you can usally do a bolt on system.

Use a manifold like these to get the carb as close to the valve as possible. It will give you the best performance for street.

Intake Manifold & Reed Valve_Parts by Type(Engine Parts)_Youngfar Partsmotorcycle parts,scooter parts,Chinese motorcycle parts,China motorcycle parts,Keeway parts,Qianjiang parts,motorcycle accessories,motorcycle performance parts

You can usally buy them from ebay cheap.

Then just use a plate of aluminum and bolt it flat to the motor then drill and tap little port work and your driving.
11-30-2012 08:34 AM
ap72 They're CVR carbs from a ZX9R, Keihin made them. and For my manifold I'm using a piece of 3/8" plate and 1 3/4" exhaust pipe. I don't have TIG equipment so I have to use steel.
11-29-2012 06:03 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
The head has already been done so I'm sticking with it, if I ever do decide to change the engine rather than modify this one I way just swap in a Zetec 2.0L.

The compression is at like 9.8:1 so its not too bad- I'm more worried about tuning the carbs with the big cam than anything else.
What size and type of carbs were you planning to use and from what motorcycle or straight racing smooth bore flat slides. Bike have very high velocity intake tracs. You will be able to make it work all else fails send the data to the carb manufacturer and have them suggest the proper jetting and adjustment settings. I think idle will be your biggest challenge mid and wot will work fine with bigger jets but the idle circuts are tiny and the screws have very little adjustment. Make sure you get the kind that have idle adjustment screws. Usally covered by alum plug that needs to drilled out on street bike carbs. Most have two one screw for idle air and one screw for idle fuel that is factory set and capped.

Remeber to get the mains right then try to tune the rest. You may not need to touch the needles for the mids, wont know until you got it dailed in. If you change the mains once its dailed in you will need to retune to get smooth transistions. Basic bike jet kit type stuff shimm the needles or replace them.

Also be sure you get side drafts and not down drafts. Most newer bikes that had carbs were down draft. R6 and r1 carbs point straight down in the bike so the floats are in different location.

Suzuki sv1000 has two very large throttle bodies if you decide to go efi. Four of those should be very nice.

Have you figured out a manifold. I used a flat plate of alum and intake manifolds from motor cycles. If you look around you should be able to find manifolds that bolt down with two bolts for each carb. Then just bolt the plate to the head. I know sounds easy right i did need a mill to make this work.
11-29-2012 08:10 AM
ap72
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Got ya. I usally deck the blocks for street build to raise the compression. If your doing edis get a ranger 2 plug head they make more power. Careful there are some gotcha to the swap.

I love itbs and bike carbs but your going to have some issues tuning for a low compression low rpm engine. You may need to drill the idle air ports tp make that work. Or under size them a little if they are from a bike.

The four barrel manifolds actually work well. You can buy a real good four barrel and a good webber setup. Im sure you seen this site they are the go to ppl for 2.3 unless your trying to 9 k rpm then its ford motorsport beleive it or not. Since they use the 2.3 in a indy style race car ford supported.

Sorry for crappy link.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ng-catalog.pdf
The head has already been done so I'm sticking with it, if I ever do decide to change the engine rather than modify this one I way just swap in a Zetec 2.0L.

The compression is at like 9.8:1 so its not too bad- I'm more worried about tuning the carbs with the big cam than anything else.
11-28-2012 08:56 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
I'm basically running a rebuilt turbo short block with a heavily reworked stock head. Currently running a 1406 Edelbrock carb on a gutted out and modded EFI intake, a cut and spliced "ranger header" and a 240/240 @.050" .504" cam. the fuel pump is a tiny POS and it starves for fuel pretty easily (like even in the driveway). Currently have a locked out TFI ignition but will have EDIS as soon as I get all the wiring done. Plan to swap to Keihin CVR carbs after I get it running good on the 1406 and EDIS done first.
Got ya. I usally deck the blocks for street build to raise the compression. If your doing edis get a ranger 2 plug head they make more power. Careful there are some gotcha to the swap.

I love itbs and bike carbs but your going to have some issues tuning for a low compression low rpm engine. You may need to drill the idle air ports tp make that work. Or under size them a little if they are from a bike.

The four barrel manifolds actually work well. You can buy a real good four barrel and a good webber setup. Im sure you seen this site they are the go to ppl for 2.3 unless your trying to 9 k rpm then its ford motorsport beleive it or not. Since they use the 2.3 in a indy style race car ford supported.

Sorry for crappy link.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ng-catalog.pdf
11-28-2012 07:44 PM
ap72
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
FYI the turbo 2.3 have forged pistons. But they are dished. My svo mustang had 2.3 turbo in it. in 86 it was faster than the v8. Made over 300 hp with stock turbo and head gasket.

Ford motorsports makes a great roller cam for the n/a 2.3

If your serious I know someone with an after market 2.3 liter head. Not sure if its for sale but I know you cant find them anywhere. Not like this. But also totaly custom. Stock intake and exhuast does not bolt up. WIth the head and the 2500 kit I here they can make almost 300 puppies without the turbo if built right. One thing is for sure that engine will take some abuse.
I'm basically running a rebuilt turbo short block with a heavily reworked stock head. Currently running a 1406 Edelbrock carb on a gutted out and modded EFI intake, a cut and spliced "ranger header" and a 240/240 @.050" .504" cam. the fuel pump is a tiny POS and it starves for fuel pretty easily (like even in the driveway). Currently have a locked out TFI ignition but will have EDIS as soon as I get all the wiring done. Plan to swap to Keihin CVR carbs after I get it running good on the 1406 and EDIS done first.
11-28-2012 09:55 AM
hpete Some of the pre turbo 7.3 fords had an inline pump that supplied the mechanical pump. Mine was an 89, not sure what the exact volume was.
11-28-2012 08:21 AM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
it's for a ford 2.3L that was originally EFI (no fuel pump boss). It's a built engine, but only about 150hp at the wheels (hey its only 4 cylinders) and will probably only do a 100hp shot.
FYI the turbo 2.3 have forged pistons. But they are dished. My svo mustang had 2.3 turbo in it. in 86 it was faster than the v8. Made over 300 hp with stock turbo and head gasket.

Ford motorsports makes a great roller cam for the n/a 2.3

If your serious I know someone with an after market 2.3 liter head. Not sure if its for sale but I know you cant find them anywhere. Not like this. But also totaly custom. Stock intake and exhuast does not bolt up. WIth the head and the 2500 kit I here they can make almost 300 puppies without the turbo if built right. One thing is for sure that engine will take some abuse.
11-27-2012 08:35 PM
ap72 it's for a ford 2.3L that was originally EFI (no fuel pump boss). It's a built engine, but only about 150hp at the wheels (hey its only 4 cylinders) and will probably only do a 100hp shot.
11-27-2012 02:09 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
I was implying TBI pumps and the like, a high pressure can work, but its not needed, I only need 5psi for the carb but I'd like to be able to run more for nitrous down the road.
Yeah not sure on that one. Cant run a machanical pump? you can get them in high volume and pressure. High volume for sbc is like 20-25 bucks new. I would avoid the 7-9 psi version unless you have a good regulator. Cheap ones either limit output or dont hold good pressure.

Heres a link to one just the first one to pop up in google. I have used these before with good results but usally buy from napa.
SBC CHEVY High Volume Chrome Fuel Pump 283 327 350 400 - KMJ Performance

Fyi the other pump i mentioned is good for efi turbo system into the 500+ hp range. I dont think its the one for a carb setup.
11-27-2012 01:38 PM
gearheadslife I'd look at a mid 80's dodge truck/van with the holley tbi
the pump is outside the tank.. and even new is like 50 clams
11-27-2012 01:30 PM
gearheadslife
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdminter59 View Post
AP72, Most fords with dual tanks have an inline pump located on the fuel rail. I know for a fact the 1995 Ford 150 extended cab have these pumps.
dual tank fords have 3 fuel pumps.. 2 in tank and one on frame rail..
the fuel rail pump is not made to suck fuel.. it boost the psi from the fuel the pumps in the tanks sent it..
11-27-2012 12:04 PM
DanielC My ski boat uses a low pressure high volume pump to keep a cannister with a fuel filter, and the high pressure fuel pump inside full of gas. This cannister just has a hose that opens back to the gas tank, and fuel just gets dumped back in the tank. Any air that makes it to the cannister also get dumped back in the tank.
this is a picture of the low pressure fuel pump, with the top place removed to clean a screen inside the pump.
11-27-2012 11:41 AM
ap72
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Not sure what you mena by low pressure they are for efi they are all high pressure. All the turbo guys use this one when they can find it. Also works god for oil for remote mount kits.

Where is the fuel pump located on a 2003 Ford F250 6.0 diesel

Also in the same spot on a few other years as well.
I was implying TBI pumps and the like, a high pressure can work, but its not needed, I only need 5psi for the carb but I'd like to be able to run more for nitrous down the road.
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