|11-29-2012 12:06 PM|
even if it didnt make em brighter
it cuts out all that juice running through the switches
my antique switches got dangerously hot and i didnt want to fry em.
|11-28-2012 05:34 PM|
|11-28-2012 04:32 PM|
|unclebill||thats pretty slick there toddalin|
|11-28-2012 03:16 PM|
|C-10||^^That's pretty nifty right there.|
|11-28-2012 12:20 PM|
I did the same thing, but in "stealth mode." I have a 1-wire alternator, so I gutted the voltage regulator and stuck the relays in there.
My testing, using my Nikon's light meter, showed that the low beams increased by 100% in intensity and the high beams increased by ~66%.
|11-28-2012 08:26 AM|
Thanks for the tip uncle bill!
Good diagram too.
|11-27-2012 10:39 PM|
|bentwings||I picked up a full volt using the relays. Be sure to use heavy enough power wire.|
|11-27-2012 09:48 PM|
Always a good tip but has been posted many times here.
|11-27-2012 02:41 PM|
if your slick..
on a junkyard crawl.. go hit up a fwd mopar... from the 80-90
on the drivers side front strut tower is a bracket with 2 relays..
just the ticket for a clean install.. and cheap..
|11-27-2012 01:08 PM|
make your headlights twice as bright cheap!
make your headlights twice as bright
and cut down the chances of electrical fire
The headlight relay is a helpful upgrade. When I did it, I used an aftermarket relay and spliced in to the high beam and low beam wires under the
hood, to the headights. The objective is to have as little voltage drop as possible, between the battery and the lights. So that means large gauge wire to the relay(s), and tapping directly off the battery side of the solenoid. Get the headlight and dimmer switch, and all that small gauge wire connecting them, out of the headlamp circuit - the only contacts in the circuit will be the relay contacts.