|01-01-2013 03:56 PM|
Well thanks for the kind words. it seems odd that on New Years Day I am online looking at emails. But its raining and I am bored. I think I'm gonna go in the shop for a while. Its either housework or paintwork. I'm bored with tv.
The profession of custom painting is a hard one. It involves brutal hours, unreal multitasking, seat of the pants thinking when things go wrong, which they often do. Its crazy to think I've been doing this since 1979. So many painting adventures over the years.
And that's what makes this thread important to me. Its a horrible sensation to apply a stencil and think "All I have to do is spray the paint, peel off the stencil, spray the clear and I'm done! Yippee!"
Then you try and remove the stencil, and it breaks into tiny pieces or peels up the basecoat with it, or leaves behind tons of adhesive on the surface or better yet, all 3 of these things happen. Now you are waaaay behind where you were when you started the day. You'd give anything to go back that point and do the stencil another way. You are in hell. If you live near a bridge, you are tempted to jump off it.
So always remember, there are no shortcuts in custom painting, any paint, material, or tool that 'seems' like a bargain, is not a bargain. Spend the time and money to get the quality stuff, you might think you're making more profit from using cheaper stuff, but when it goes wrong, and it will at the worst possible time, all that money you saved is so not worth it.
And always remember test unknown stuff, always. Better to buy a little extra and find out how and if it works than to find out on the vehicle and maybe ruin work you've already done.
|01-01-2013 02:10 PM|
Thanks Joann for joining us!
Your kind of a rock star in your field so excuse me if I'm gushing.
I've read a lot of your stuff over on autobody forum and was just watching you on a PowerblockTV episode with the water based flames. Awesome work!
Looking forward to learning more from you.
|12-29-2012 06:47 AM|
This kind of thing is a hard lesson i learned many years ago, not all adhesives and stencil materials are created equal. I'm cringing reading the posts on this thread. Brings it all back to me. Ugh!
I'm sure it has gotten far worse since it happened to me 25 years ago. I bet many premade stencils are made overseas and who knows what they are using for adhesive and material?
And this is why I do not use any kind of stencil material unless I have prior experience with it. In fact, I'm so paranoid about this, I make all my own stencils now. For stripes, I'll get the measurements and tape them off myself. Yes its a little more work, but well worth it. And much of the time, it will some out better when you tape them off yourself, as not all sheetmetal is perfect, and sometimes you have to play around a little to get things even.
For non stripe stencils, before I started making them myself, I used a sign shop that used a stencil material I trusted.
|12-28-2012 02:40 PM|
|PRO 48 fleetline||
Great work sure is nice to see them stripes in paint I've done over 50 new mustangs and camaros within the past year installing vinyl racing stripes.
I can appreciate the work on them.
|12-01-2012 08:33 AM|
like the blue..
|11-30-2012 08:23 PM|
|11-30-2012 06:11 PM|
|11-30-2012 05:28 PM|
Looks good today....what's the problem...do I sound like a customer now...sorry. Just kidding, I know the crap you had to go through, a gain Kudos.
|11-30-2012 05:18 PM|
|mr4speed||Here are a couple of pics of the nightmare stencil hood......|
|11-30-2012 04:59 PM|
Your right Vince, and fine line tape for SS stripes or most any square to the body stripe is the way to go...there are web-sites that outline the dimensions for most 60's and 70's muscle car stripes...where they go, SS versus RS versus RS/SS, does it go under the spoiler, over the spoiler, nowadays it's all out there. Not like in the real old days when you had to take measurements before you stripped the car down...getting information from GM was tough back then.
|11-30-2012 03:56 PM|
When I did the stripes on a Camaro I restored years ago I used 3M Fineline tape and worked from a graphic that showed ever dimension needed.
|11-30-2012 07:49 AM|
it's all in how it stored..
my year one kit was 12 years old when I used it. no issue, but was stored in a cool ,dry place..
|11-30-2012 06:48 AM|
I'm sure, as Barry mentioned,...the company will offer a cheap heartless response..."we never had this problem before" and not take responsibility. What does a new stencil help you now?
Try a local pin striping or trim supplier see if they can help. It does work extremely well, if I'm not hand laying flames, I always use this method, the stencil is always made from fresh material and lays down easily in comparison to old stencils, edges are much crisper, material is more pliable and a lot less lifting...many of these places have programs for a lot of the older muscle cars...If not, just give them the exact dimensions and a diagram also helps, they will cut them for you...give it a try, you won't be disappointed.
|11-30-2012 06:35 AM|
|mr4speed||The stencil came from OPG in california, told the cust what happened and he told me that he would see what they could do. I already told him I can not take the chance of this happening when I put the stripes on the rest of the car, no way. See what is gonna happen now..... that is a good idea Ray about having them cut fresh.|
|11-30-2012 06:07 AM|
Yes Barry it sucks, and stencil's for Chevelle's are so difficult to but on with the center rib in the hood. I've ended up cutting stencils in half and putting it on when I'm doing grafics on panels like hoods with contour lines...it works well, less air bubble leaving a more even let down of the stencil...I just tape up my cut line before painting.
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