Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics> Expectable horsepower?
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: Expectable horsepower? Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
12-20-2012 06:26 PM
Viban Well like I said, for now I will be doing things that I can't get along without, then I'll look into optimizing anything. The engine is ready to drop in now and It'll be going in by the end of next week. but I don't have a job yet so things are probably gonna move a bit slow for a while. When I come into some more money I think I'll look into that mail order monitoring software thing that black bear offers. The transmission should probably hold up ok with it too, this truck came with a transmission cooler and it seems pretty rugged.
12-20-2012 04:27 PM
Valkyrie5.7 Your truck may run just fine and make power with your cam, but a tune is something to look into because of the torque management software that the truck uses. It will pull timing at WOT, upshift or downshift in an effort to save abuse on the transmission. It significantly effects power output.

Most tuners do not recommend removing all of the torque management unless you've done work to the transmission (4L60E/4L60/700R4's aren't exactly the toughest transmissions ever made) but with paired with a fluid cooler you can easily remove 75-80% of what the computers doing. It's a night and day difference in power.

I understand you not wanting to get into spending a lot of money or going for full out straight line performance, but if you're going to spend the cash on a hotter cam, you might as well spend the extra $200 on a mail order tune so that you're getting your moneys worth.
12-20-2012 02:19 PM
Viban if it comes down to it I'll see what I can do, I'm just going by what seems to be necessity. I figure if the power drops or it runs bad I'll see about getting it tuned.
12-19-2012 10:53 PM
Silver Surfer If you don't tune the computer you will probably see a drop in power, which is bad. And it may run really lean or really rich, which is bad and bad.
12-19-2012 10:42 PM
Viban I'm not doing anything with the computer, the reason I picked everything I did is so I could avoid it at all costs. It's really just going to be a daily driver, first car and whatnot. I just wanted to make her purr real pretty like and maybe carry my band's gear if need be.
12-19-2012 08:21 PM
Valkyrie5.7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viban View Post
This is a bit of a bump, but everything is all together now, made suggested upgrades where needed and things. My question is now, will I need a bigger distributer or will an OEM one be fine?
Leave the distributor, unless it has excessive play. If you do replace it, make sure it is one for your specific application and not just any HEI distributor.

BTW, when you get your tune done make sure that you have them remove the torque management, you're leaving a lot of power on the table right now.

This is my choice for tuning: Black Bear Performance :: Custom Tuning Solutions for 96 and newer GM Vehicles
12-19-2012 08:03 PM
Viban This is a bit of a bump, but everything is all together now, made suggested upgrades where needed and things. My question is now, will I need a bigger distributer or will an OEM one be fine?
12-07-2012 02:02 PM
Viban I'll upgrade the valve springs and work on the rest, this is why I cam here, cuz I knew ya'll would know things that I'd overlook
12-07-2012 04:23 AM
454C10 I only have measured one set of vortec heads and the retainers hit the seals at 0.430" lift.

Get your heads done at another machine shop and yes, use the recommended valve springs.
12-06-2012 10:25 AM
Silver Surfer I would also add that you ought to replace the distributor gear as well anytime you get a new cam. Using an old one will accelerate wear and will also cause your ignition timing to faulter.
12-06-2012 10:20 AM
Silver Surfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viban View Post
The guy at my shop said that this was the biggest I could go without that being necessary.
The .480" lift on exhaust is cutting it pretty close. There are a lot of variables in the production of cast heads and some have more or less clearance than others. You should have at least .060" between the valve retainer and valve seal at full lift. After reading your post, you never even verified clearance.

Also it doesn't appear that you replaced the stock springs with the proper springs for the cam. Stock L31 springs will go into coil bind around .420" lift. Furthemore, the stock springs lack the seat pressure to keep the roller tappets on the face of the cam lobes which means:
-.060" clearance between the retainer and seal may not be enough
-if a lifter jumps off the nose of the cam you have instant engine destruction

I suggest getting the correct springs and retainers and verifying clearances before you attempt to start the engine.

More info can be found here: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._cylinder_head
12-06-2012 03:40 AM
75gmck25 It sounds like you made some good choices for a moderate horsepower increase. You will still have an engine that still gets decent gas mileage and has good low end torque - nice if you plan to use this pickup as a real truck.

Now take a look at the other items you can upgrade to get a little more power.
Good headers with full duals, an H pipe and high flow mufflers (I like Dynomax turbo mufflers) will help power, and you should be able to keep the sound at a level acceptable to your Dad. Tuning the computer is the next step I would take, but watch out for tunes that require premium fuel. They will work fine, but take more out of your pocket each time you fill up.

Bruce
12-05-2012 06:18 PM
Viban The guy at my shop said that this was the biggest I could go without that being necessary.
12-05-2012 05:21 AM
454C10 did you get the heads modified to handle more lift?
12-04-2012 09:46 PM
Viban I actually did it with the valves facing me and just reached my hand around back to spin them, it went rather easily. They are now completely assembled and ready to roll. Got the timing chain on and ready to go. Pretty much all that needs to happen now is the flywheel needs to go on, the heads need to go on, the oil pump go in, and then the goodies on the front, and the transmission before it goes in, because they decided to hide on of the transmission bolts right above the starter, so its impossible to get to from underneath. Then comes the adventure of finding where all of the dozens of wires. I'll make sure to keep ya'll updated, and drop you a video of original startup if possible.

Speaking of original startup, any advice? Things I should do fresh after a rebuild like gas in the intake? That kind of stuff?
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.