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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-03-2012 12:27 PM
ChevroletSS the pcv valve is on th passenger side. on the driver side ther is a baffle near the front and a hose near the back that runs to the throttle body.

I had to re do the timing because I cleaned my distributor. Just wondered which way was advancing the timing. I had it turned past #5 just a little bit for morre power but it made my plugs black
12-03-2012 10:17 AM
cdminter59
Air/Fuel Problem??? I Think

The hose from the throttle body to the valve cover should be your PCV valve.
12-03-2012 09:45 AM
Silver Surfer Glad its better now.

You didn't remove the entire distributor from the engine did you? It is not necessary for a cap and rotor change. The cap and rotor only bolt on one way, so there should be no change from the factory timing (unless you removed the dist or twisted it).
12-03-2012 09:43 AM
ChevroletSS Changed cap and rotor and seems to be fine now. Let me ask you this, If your standing in front of the truck and have the cap turned towards the driver side with #1 plug post pointing towards #1 cyl. Thats how its supposed to be. Now if you have #1 post pointing around #5 cyl and a little past what will it do. It seems like it speeds the engine up a little bit and it gives me alot more power. Will having the cap in this position be the cause of black spark plugs and does it advance the timing or retard it?

Thanks

FamilyGuy, where is the fuel pressure regulator located and what does it look like. I am going to change that and my filter.

Also guys what the point of a hose on the driver side valve cover going to the throttle body?
11-29-2012 06:13 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
I have thought it was the egr and and my dad keeps tellin me Ive changed evrything but the cap and rotor. I think I have come to the conclusion that I am buying a cap and rotor because they are cheap and mine is pretty old, and I will get a egr valve regardless if mine is bad or not cause I know it has to have some carbon build up in it so I want a fresh clean one cause that is old as well. I will do that and go from there and see where I am at. Hopefully that fixes it.

Thanks guys
Even if the check engine light isn't on, see if there are any codes stored in the computer.
11-29-2012 05:34 PM
familyguy
air/fuel problem

I have changed alot of fuel pressure regulators on the tbi's for the same symptoms. Hope this helps.
11-29-2012 04:40 PM
cdminter59
Air/fuel Problem??? I think

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
I have thought it was the egr and and my dad keeps tellin me Ive changed evrything but the cap and rotor. I think I have come to the conclusion that I am buying a cap and rotor because they are cheap and mine is pretty old, and I will get a egr valve regardless if mine is bad or not cause I know it has to have some carbon build up in it so I want a fresh clean one cause that is old as well. I will do that and go from there and see where I am at. Hopefully that fixes it.

Thanks guys
Like your dad said replace the cap and rotor. Also use an ohm meter and check your plug wires too. Place a lead on each end of the wire. Your reading should be zero.
Don't forget the manifold could be plugged with carbon. You will not be able to see it you have to do the test under the troubleshooting in the article. Follow the directions for troubleshooting it could be the EGR Valve or the solenoid. You can check with AutoZone or Advance Auto to rent the tools you need. You get your money back when you return them.
11-29-2012 03:54 PM
Bart I had something the same have you every changed the fuel filter?
11-29-2012 02:19 PM
ChevroletSS Ok thanks for the heads up
11-29-2012 12:34 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
I have thought it was the egr and and my dad keeps tellin me Ive changed evrything but the cap and rotor. I think I have come to the conclusion that I am buying a cap and rotor because they are cheap and mine is pretty old, and I will get a egr valve regardless if mine is bad or not cause I know it has to have some carbon build up in it so I want a fresh clean one cause that is old as well. I will do that and go from there and see where I am at. Hopefully that fixes it.

Thanks guys
You can get a kit with the coil and modual as well. Helps if you replace it all coil other parts are common problems. I was able to get one with wires included.
11-29-2012 10:32 AM
ChevroletSS I have thought it was the egr and and my dad keeps tellin me Ive changed evrything but the cap and rotor. I think I have come to the conclusion that I am buying a cap and rotor because they are cheap and mine is pretty old, and I will get a egr valve regardless if mine is bad or not cause I know it has to have some carbon build up in it so I want a fresh clean one cause that is old as well. I will do that and go from there and see where I am at. Hopefully that fixes it.

Thanks guys
11-29-2012 09:58 AM
Silver Surfer Inspect the cap and rotor. I would bet you that is the problem.
11-29-2012 06:12 AM
cdminter59
Air/fuel Problem??? I think

Here is an article to read. It sounds like some of the problem you have. EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Troubleshooting - ChevyTalk --The Social Network for Chevy Fans
11-29-2012 05:53 AM
ChevroletSS Sorry guys its a stock truck. Chevy 5.0 TBI. Its has always done this intermentenly but the past 2 days it has done it non stop and actually stalled out at a stop sign and took a min to get it fired back up. I can stand in front of the truck with the air cleaner off and rev the engine, give it gas and its like it chokes, almost dies and then runs normal. I can see my injectors putting out fuel. they look normal to me anyway.
11-28-2012 08:44 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Hey guys when I drive my truck and hit the gas it wants to sputter and then it drives fine. It does this no matter if Im moving at any speed or if Im stopped and try to go. Always when I hit the gas it sputters then takes off. I really have no clue what it is but I think something with air/fuel mixture. Its a 94 chevy pick up. Any Ideas
That sounds a lot like a problem w/the accelerator pump.

One thing you can do is w/the engine OFF, take a flashlight and look down the primary throat of the carb and open the throttle. You should see gas squirting just as soon as the throttle starts to open. Should be a stream of gas coming out, not bubbles and drips.

You didn't say if you have to pump the gas a lot to start the engine when it's cold, but if it's the accelerator pump this wouldn't surprise me.

Another thing to check is to be sure the choke is opening all the way once the engine is warmed up.
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