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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-08-2011 07:52 AM
68NovaSS Claims to be from CA, actually from Manila...poor girl's lost! She's banned.
07-08-2011 03:33 AM
DoubleVision This thread is 8 years old. It was brought back to life by a spammer Apriya.
Now even the spammers like nostalgia
07-08-2011 03:24 AM
willowbilly3 It will be a little more of a hunt than finding a 350 but you will come up with a good one by arming yourself with the good info already posted. I did see a couple typo/errors in previous posts. You can't have a 283 with a 327 block. A 327 is 4" bore which would make a 302 with a 283 crank.And there was no small journal 350. The easiest way would be to find a 350 block and buy a 327 (or 307 as mentioned) large journal crank. To bore a 283 block you would definitely want it sonic tested and with a .125" overbore it would be the last rebuild on that block. Personally I would hold out for a small journal 327 engine. All of them had forged steel cranks and there is something to be said for the lower bearing speed on the small journal crank. I wouldn't get too excited about any heads that came on a 327, even double hump (which can be 1.94 or 2.02 intakes) The cost of going through a set of those old heads will be more than you can buy a brand new set of better flowing heads for. I just threw away a set of 250 horse power pack heads.
If you go with a large journal engine, just look for the casting number ending in 010. That will mean it's a 4 inch bore. Probably 90% of the 350 blocks are 010 blocks.
07-08-2011 02:44 AM
Apriya Users of 2007 and 2008 Impalas are slapping General Motors with a class-action lawsuit. The suit claims that a rear suspension flaw in the automobiles causes tires to wear too early. GM addressed the rear end issue for Impalas sold as law enforcement cars in 2008, but has not handled consumer-owned models. GM could hand out millions if the lawsuit succeeds.I read this here: GM faces class action lawsuits over excessive tire wear
10-03-2003 05:18 PM
slider Went to; *****http://car-part.com***** and found 45 327 engines. Priced from $1564 with a 3 year waranty all the way down to $150 for a runner.

They're out there. that was the just first search.
10-03-2003 05:00 PM
Ed ke6bnl
Re: Junkyard Motors..

Quote:
Originally posted by Zartan
First, i have searched the database here and have not found what i'm asking, so if i missed something, i apologize.

I'm looking for a 327 motor to put in a camaro, which i dont yet have.
my question is, when i go to a junkyard to find one, what do i need to look for, as far as knowing if the block is cracked or if it's rebuildable-acceptable, rebuildable-good, rebuidable-nightmare, mortgage scenario?

i'm new to this world, relatively. I've always had the interest, but i always had alot of hobbies. Now i'm getting into this one and it's exciting already! So please bear with my mundane questions at times.

Also, is there any way of getting an idea on what to pay for one of these motors?

I am going on the assumption that it's best to have the motor out of the car as i strip it down and rebuild, before bolting it in...
thx

You might want to try what i did, in So. Calif. I advertized I wanted to haul away a 327 engine need not pass smog and as complete as possibe, the first one was a 350 sm journal good short block, the second one the guy wanted $50 for a complete motor large journal less carb pulley and accessories. The third I came accross was a 327 1963 from a still owned corvette with the camel hump heads. long block offenhouser intake no carb pulleys or distrributor. I gave $300 for it and it runs beautiful. I to am new at this stuff and we (my 17 year old) son put it in my frame for my 50 f1 pu and it fired write up and we were two super happey fellows. It is taken shape. Hope to try to drive this truck after 2 1/2 years in a couple of months. Ed ke6bnl
10-03-2003 04:54 PM
Ed ke6bnl
Re: Junkyard Motors..

Quote:
Originally posted by Zartan
First, i have searched the database here and have not found what i'm asking, so if i missed something, i apologize.

I'm looking for a 327 motor to put in a camaro, which i dont yet have.
my question is, when i go to a junkyard to find one, what do i need to look for, as far as knowing if the block is cracked or if it's rebuildable-acceptable, rebuildable-good, rebuidable-nightmare, mortgage scenario?

i'm new to this world, relatively. I've always had the interest, but i always had alot of hobbies. Now i'm getting into this one and it's exciting already! So please bear with my mundane questions at times.

Also, is there any way of getting an idea on what to pay for one of these motors?

I am going on the assumption that it's best to have the motor out of the car as i strip it down and rebuild, before bolting it in...
thx

You might want to try what i did, in So. Calif. I advertized I wanted to haul away a 327 engine need not pass smog and as complete as possibe, the first one was a 350 sm journal good short block, the second one the guy wanted $50 for a complete motor large journal less carb pulley and accessories. The third I came accross was a 327 1963 from a still owned corvette with the camel hump heads. long block offenhouser intake no carb pulleys or distrributor. I gave $300 for it and it runs beautiful. I to am new at this stuff and we (my 17 year old) son put it in my frame for my 50 f1 pu and it fired write up and we were two super happey fellows. It is taken shape. Hope to try to drive this truck after 2 1/2 years in a couple of months. Ed ke6bnl
10-03-2003 02:19 PM
scott011422 I'd try the local engine shops and such. I got my 327 W/ new forged steel crank for $300. At that point it had already been hot tanked and MagnaFluxed. It even still had the origional bore sizing.
10-03-2003 01:51 PM
propaniac The engine I mentioned was a running engine I saw it myself its sitting in the southwest corner of his shop looked in good shape to me. The guy who owns the junk yard I trust.

If you are stuck on a 327 and dont care if its not original find a 307 crank and stick it in a 350 block.
10-03-2003 01:46 PM
mav79 Here is also one link to one of the books on Amazon-

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...books&n=507846

The block is the same- Same bore, different stroke, so different crank. The early 327s had a smaller main diameter, but newer matches the dia of the 350. A lot of interesting history and compatability to look at if you are interested.

-M

oops, While I'm typing away, Kevin wrote the appendix to all of the books that I have... WOW! Good data, Kevin.
10-03-2003 01:34 PM
Kevin45 327 to 350 are the same blocks. You have a different stroke. This may simplify things a little:

262 = 3.671" x 3.10" (Gen. I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('55-'57 Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('94-'96 Gen.II, 4.3 liter V-8 "L99", 5.94" rod)
267 = 3.500" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
283 = 3.875" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
293 = 3.780" x 3.27" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LR4" 4.8 Liter Vortec, 6.278" rod)
302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
305 = 3.740" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
325 = 3.780" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LM7" 5.3 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
346 = 3.900" x 3.622" ('97-later, Gen.III, "LS1", 6.098" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" ('96-'01, Gen. I, Vortec, 5.7" rod)
350 = 3.900" x 3.66" ('89-'95, "LT5", in "ZR1" Corvette 32-valve DOHC, 5.74" rod)
364 = 4.000" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LQ4" 6.0 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor) (5.7" rod)
400 = 4.125" x 3.75" (Gen.I, 5.565" rod)

Two common, non-factory smallblock combinations:

377 = 4.155" x 3.48" (5.7" or 6.00" rod)
400 block and a 350 crank with "spacer" main bearings


383 = 4.030" x 3.76" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank, main bearing crank journals
cut to 350 size

The 400 block is the same size but the two center cylinders are different configuration than the 350 (sistered cylinders) so some parts are not interchangeable.

HemmiGremmi has a 350 for sale in the For Sales. #35 in the For Sales.

Kevin
10-03-2003 01:31 PM
Zartan so, for me, this begs the question, and again if i'm way off base i apologize, but then,
what is the difference between a factory 327 and a 350 block made into a 327? ( if i asked that right) and what are the pro's/cons?

i always thought you could make a smaller motor into a bigger engine, but not vice-versa.

i'm very glad i found this place!!
10-03-2003 01:12 PM
DoubleVision I would just find a 350 block which are cheap and plentiful and a 307 crank which are also plentiful, grab some decent pistons for a 327 and there you have it.
10-03-2003 01:12 PM
mav79 Zartan,

Kevin hit the nail on the head with junk yard stuff. Sometimes you can get a decent block, but there are a lot of things that can go wrong. Around here, one of the yards that I use will guarentee no cracks, but only to the point of me picking out another block and trying again. That's on 350s, though, and finding a 327 complete and in good shape will be tricky, at best.

To check for cracks, you really need it torn down and checked, by magnafluxing. That means that buying a bone yard engine and finding a bad one is a lot of work, just to find out you need to do more work. There aren't any great shortcuts, just some time to tear them down. It would be a good learning experience, but it is time consuming and can get a little frustrating.

If you are set on a 327, find a good 350 block and get a 327 large journal crank- (Same block) Buy a couple of books, "How to Rebuild SB", "How to Hotrod SB Chev," "Chev SB V-8 Interchange Manual," or several others. Just do a search and look for SB books. I would get the books first and then start looking around.

Good luck with this project. Just remember to have fun and ask a lot of questions as you go. There are a lot of SB Chev folks on this board that can answer a lot of questions.

-M
10-03-2003 12:41 PM
Zartan thx for all the advice. i have a couple questions and comments.

first, i definitely dont want a rebuilt or kicking motor. The main thing i'd like to get out of this hobby is the knowledge of tearing it down and fixing it and putting it back together. Then i want to bolt it into a body that i've re-stored, turn the key and go happy into the sunset looking for my next one.

So that being said, i'm going to call the numbers and other resources you all mentioned here, and see what they have to say.

question: when you say "block", do you mean, literally, just the block itself, or the block, pistons, cam, etc? Or maybe a better question is, should i concentrate on just getting a good block, and then replace all the guts as i go? And if that's the best case, quality wise, is it also much more expensive then fixing wht you can and replacing what you must?

This may be silly, but are there any simple tests when looking at prospective motors, to see if they are cracked or shot?
Can i pour oil into them or water or something that will leak out or should i pretend i never asked that question and slink away back to my dungeon and get to turning wrenches?
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