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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-05-2012 04:18 AM
69 widetrack
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
While I'll agree a good ground is most important, I disagree with the advice given above...... Make sure the ground you currently have is in fact making good, clean and tight contact with the engine block. That is your main ground period! you should run a grounding strap to the frame but not to ground the starter, you are correct the starter gets it's ground from the block.
I agree with you disagreeing...if that makes sense...I suggested this not as a fix but rather find out if he has a good ground...yes, the starter get's it's ground from the block, what I was suggesting was just an elimination process, the proper repair, if in fact it is the ground, is to make sure that he "is in fact making good, clean and tight contact". The reason i suggested this method was because the truck is a 1977 and who knows how much rust oil grease or whatever has accumulated over the last 36 years.

I recently repaired the headlights on a 1930 Ford the customer had cleaned up the ground and still couldn't get the headlights to consistently stay wasn't until I ran a seperate ground to the headlights that they remained on. I believe we are saying the same thing just different ways to go about it.
12-05-2012 04:01 AM
EOD Guy While I'll agree a good ground is most important, I disagree with the advice given above...... Make sure the ground you currently have is in fact making good, clean and tight contact with the engine block. That is your main ground period! you should run a grounding strap to the frame but not to ground the starter, you are correct the starter gets it's ground from the block.

If your current ground cable is in bad shape .... replace it.

Here is how I'd trouble shoot this

If it's a 4 studed solenoid make you you didn't switch the "I" wire and the "S" wires on the solenoid. "S" wire should be purple and the "I" wire should be white or off yellow

If it's a 3 studed solenoid.....

a. Use a screw driver and jump across the battery cable stud on the starter and the actual motor stud on the starter.

If the starter doesn't spin, your battery cable is bad or the battery is dead.

b. If the battery is charged...... make sure the neg cable is connected and you have a good ground, then run a jumper cable from the pos post on the battery and touch the other end to the battery cable stud on the starter.

c. if it doesn't spin hook the other jumper cable to the neg post on the battery and connect the other end to one of the starter bolts....... touch the pos jumper cable to the battery stud on the starter. If it doesn't spin, you have a bad starter.

If the starter spins in test a. above but doesn't engage with the key switch........
Run a temp jumper from the pos post on the battery to the small "S" stud on the starter...... if the starter spins the wire from your ing switch has a fault. If the starter doen't spin with the jumper..... you have a fault in the solenoid.
12-04-2012 09:30 PM
69 widetrack Thank you, OK great, you should read a current thread on this forum to find out how important having a good ground is the thread is:

Engine Grounding Points...

One of the most overlooked items on a vehicle and much time can be spent on a simple fix and I always like to get the simple out of the way first.

12-04-2012 09:26 PM
severed head ok, thanks. i'll post something tomorrow to let you know if it worked....hopefully its not raining.
12-04-2012 09:24 PM
69 widetrack Usually when a neutral Safety Switch goes it's gone and doesn't work on sometimes off sometimes so I'd try the ground for the inexpensive reasons I mentioned earlier.
12-04-2012 09:22 PM
69 widetrack I'm sorry, what's the NSS, OK...just figured out the abreviation... Neutral safety switch...possible, but I'd try the ground doesn't cost anything.
12-04-2012 09:19 PM
severed head what about the NSS?
12-04-2012 09:17 PM
69 widetrack I guess it did show up on permalink #6

Sorry bout that.
12-04-2012 09:16 PM
69 widetrack For some reason my post didn't show up, I realize that the starter is already grounded, but, if everything tests out fine this is the first place to start. When dealing with electrical, the first rule is make sure that your grounds are solid...Clean a piece of metal off at the frame and try grounding your starter...make sure your contacts are clean...if it works great, if it doesn't you've eliminated a bad ground as the culprit.

Try it and let me know.

12-04-2012 09:11 PM
69 widetrack I realize that, but, if your starter checks out your not getting consistent current to the starter, very often a ground can look real good and it's intermitent. I'm not saying it's going to solve your situation, what i am saying is that it does sound like a bad ground and this way your eliminating one possibility.
12-04-2012 09:07 PM
severed head it's already gounded to the alt. bracket to block. and the sterter is grounded to block.
12-04-2012 09:01 PM
69 widetrack Don't use the remote starter, I would try grounding it directly to the frame...10 years ago I had a Cadillac Fleetwood that I couldn't get to run properly, I took it to 3 or 4 reputable mechanical shops, they tried everything and about $1,000.00 later it still ran like crap...I thought about it for a while and took a battery cable and grounded the engine to the frame and it ran like a champ. I don't know if this is going to solve your problem but, if everything has tested out positively it's worth a try...sure would be a cheap fix if all you need to do is ground it to your frame.

Let me know if it works for you, here's hoping.

12-04-2012 08:54 PM
severed head do you think i should use the remote starter as the 'ground' or have a 10ga. wire direct to negitive terminal?
12-04-2012 08:24 PM
69 widetrack I'm not an elictrianist by any means but, if you have bench tested your starter and it's fine, try running a seperate ground wire to your starter...bad grounds can cause strange events and everything else seems to be working. After you have your seperate ground wire run, and if it starts, try it several times to be sure.

Hope this works for you.
12-04-2012 07:56 PM
severed head
77 C10 stepside electrical problems

Well, here's my story. It's a '77 C10 stepside 350/350 Hydro. My mother bought it for me as a welcome home gift, for coming back from my second tour of duty, from a salvage yard. This was in 2006 and has been running (limping around) just fine....UNTIL NOW! It won't turn over and I had a shop bench test the starter, good. At the time i was stuck in a lot in the dark doing all this and found some freyed wires and tought it would be the problem. i cut and twisted them together for a better connection and it started up first try.
The next day I bought some 10ga. and connectors and repaired it properly and tried to turn it over, nothing.
OH, as I tried to start it so i could move it to the driveway for repair, it didn't start. i retwisted the wires again and it fired up first try.
Now I'm stuck and even with a wiring diagram, dvom, logic probe and a whole lot of frustration.
I had my ol'lady turn it over while I check for power/ground and it's definantly switching but not even a 'click'. The igniotion switch was my first thought, but i can see that my batt is 'under load'. so it has to be working....right?
the next thing i thought it was is the starter sol. I tried to jump it with a button type, and again double checking with my logic probe to make sure that i had power on the batt. side and gound on the other. With koeo and logic probe on the ground side(green LED) I pushed the button and nothing....BUT, i got a red LED signifying that it sent power through. Am i missing something?

please help,
Cpl. boyd

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