|12-20-2012 07:26 PM|
|Viban||Well like I said, for now I will be doing things that I can't get along without, then I'll look into optimizing anything. The engine is ready to drop in now and It'll be going in by the end of next week. but I don't have a job yet so things are probably gonna move a bit slow for a while. When I come into some more money I think I'll look into that mail order monitoring software thing that black bear offers. The transmission should probably hold up ok with it too, this truck came with a transmission cooler and it seems pretty rugged.|
|12-20-2012 05:27 PM|
Your truck may run just fine and make power with your cam, but a tune is something to look into because of the torque management software that the truck uses. It will pull timing at WOT, upshift or downshift in an effort to save abuse on the transmission. It significantly effects power output.
Most tuners do not recommend removing all of the torque management unless you've done work to the transmission (4L60E/4L60/700R4's aren't exactly the toughest transmissions ever made) but with paired with a fluid cooler you can easily remove 75-80% of what the computers doing. It's a night and day difference in power.
I understand you not wanting to get into spending a lot of money or going for full out straight line performance, but if you're going to spend the cash on a hotter cam, you might as well spend the extra $200 on a mail order tune so that you're getting your moneys worth.
|12-20-2012 03:19 PM|
|Viban||if it comes down to it I'll see what I can do, I'm just going by what seems to be necessity. I figure if the power drops or it runs bad I'll see about getting it tuned.|
|12-19-2012 11:53 PM|
|Silver Surfer||If you don't tune the computer you will probably see a drop in power, which is bad. And it may run really lean or really rich, which is bad and bad.|
|12-19-2012 11:42 PM|
|Viban||I'm not doing anything with the computer, the reason I picked everything I did is so I could avoid it at all costs. It's really just going to be a daily driver, first car and whatnot. I just wanted to make her purr real pretty like and maybe carry my band's gear if need be.|
|12-19-2012 09:21 PM|
BTW, when you get your tune done make sure that you have them remove the torque management, you're leaving a lot of power on the table right now.
This is my choice for tuning: Black Bear Performance :: Custom Tuning Solutions for 96 and newer GM Vehicles
|12-19-2012 09:03 PM|
|Viban||This is a bit of a bump, but everything is all together now, made suggested upgrades where needed and things. My question is now, will I need a bigger distributer or will an OEM one be fine?|
|12-07-2012 03:02 PM|
|Viban||I'll upgrade the valve springs and work on the rest, this is why I cam here, cuz I knew ya'll would know things that I'd overlook|
|12-07-2012 05:23 AM|
I only have measured one set of vortec heads and the retainers hit the seals at 0.430" lift.
Get your heads done at another machine shop and yes, use the recommended valve springs.
|12-06-2012 11:25 AM|
|Silver Surfer||I would also add that you ought to replace the distributor gear as well anytime you get a new cam. Using an old one will accelerate wear and will also cause your ignition timing to faulter.|
|12-06-2012 11:20 AM|
Also it doesn't appear that you replaced the stock springs with the proper springs for the cam. Stock L31 springs will go into coil bind around .420" lift. Furthemore, the stock springs lack the seat pressure to keep the roller tappets on the face of the cam lobes which means:
-.060" clearance between the retainer and seal may not be enough
-if a lifter jumps off the nose of the cam you have instant engine destruction
I suggest getting the correct springs and retainers and verifying clearances before you attempt to start the engine.
More info can be found here: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._cylinder_head
|12-06-2012 04:40 AM|
It sounds like you made some good choices for a moderate horsepower increase. You will still have an engine that still gets decent gas mileage and has good low end torque - nice if you plan to use this pickup as a real truck.
Now take a look at the other items you can upgrade to get a little more power.
Good headers with full duals, an H pipe and high flow mufflers (I like Dynomax turbo mufflers) will help power, and you should be able to keep the sound at a level acceptable to your Dad. Tuning the computer is the next step I would take, but watch out for tunes that require premium fuel. They will work fine, but take more out of your pocket each time you fill up.
|12-05-2012 07:18 PM|
|Viban||The guy at my shop said that this was the biggest I could go without that being necessary.|
|12-05-2012 06:21 AM|
|454C10||did you get the heads modified to handle more lift?|
|12-04-2012 10:46 PM|
I actually did it with the valves facing me and just reached my hand around back to spin them, it went rather easily. They are now completely assembled and ready to roll. Got the timing chain on and ready to go. Pretty much all that needs to happen now is the flywheel needs to go on, the heads need to go on, the oil pump go in, and then the goodies on the front, and the transmission before it goes in, because they decided to hide on of the transmission bolts right above the starter, so its impossible to get to from underneath. Then comes the adventure of finding where all of the dozens of wires. I'll make sure to keep ya'll updated, and drop you a video of original startup if possible.
Speaking of original startup, any advice? Things I should do fresh after a rebuild like gas in the intake? That kind of stuff?
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