|12-11-2012 05:04 PM|
|greazyball||I dont know for sure,But those later 5.0 motors wind up higher than early 302's head improvements and roller cams from the factory did alot to get the rpm range higher on the ford small block.An early 289/302 wasnt much good beyond 4,500rpm..not without work.Not to mention the choices of cams these days with a roller cam.the only other solution would be is a solid lifter cam,Which i doubt is absolutley needed for street use.|
|12-06-2012 08:39 AM|
|Hookedup12||You aren't gonna be able to spin that roller set up as high like you could with that flat tappet but it is more street friendly. It's a magnetic I believe that's what he said its gonna cost a pretty penny is all I know haha|
|12-06-2012 12:05 AM|
|olerodder||Here is a picture of my motor on the engine dyno a couple of months ago.|
|12-05-2012 11:32 PM|
|greazyball||Ive used those as well for a poor mans dyno..but i got an idea to use the hand held smog tester as way simply to tell me if the car was running rich or lean..it wasnt exact as the meter was designed for modern cars in mind..but it did well.the next motor im building for the falcon i will actually do my homework and spend the extra money for components that are all 'matched' I built the old 289 when i was 21 or 22 and didnt have much money.So i made the most of what i had on hand or what i could scrounge from a junkyard.I have another 289 that im going to have somebody else assemble the rotating assembly and fit everything.The heads i will use?..dont know yet.Except they will be aluminum,and i will convert the 289 to roller cam/roller rockers..less friction means a tiny bit more power,a little less heat.I would like to use an AOD with a 9in rear axle and disc brakes.|
|12-05-2012 11:10 PM|
Although engine dyno's and chassis dyno's are on the expensive side they are the ultimate diagnostic tool.
An engine dyno is great to break an engine in and also get that inital tune before you drop it in the car for the real world test.
The motor I just refreshened, a 408ci windsor started out on the engine dyno with an easy break-in using only the outer valve springs and keeping it under 5000rpm..............after putting the springs back to normal we made 12 more pulls to finalize AFR/carb jetting/timing and plug selection and gap. The water temperature was even changed from 170/180/190/200 to see what differences it made. In the end I was pleased with 650HP at 6800 and 542lbft at 5700.
The poor mans dyno I use are a Lambda meter and vacuum gauge......a leak-down unit is also helpful after the motor has been warmed.
|12-05-2012 10:56 PM|
I know that with a Magnetic you simulate the amount of HP it takes to push the car through air at 50mph by using an electric brake/load cell............but how can you get away from running the engine from idle to redline/WOT?
|12-05-2012 10:46 PM|
|greazyball||the 'poor man's dyno tuner' is what i called my rattletrap set up.I took an exhaust smog tester,A small hand held thing with a probe you stuck into the exhaust pipe.It would read the exhaust and tell you if the car is running rich or lean..it wasnt designed for something like my falcon but it did come in handy.you can get a rich reading on the screen,or you can get a lean reading.I then used the process of elimination..if i was running rich,then i fiddled with the jets..then if that didnt lean it out..then i would adavance or retard the distributor,play with the points gap..i got a pertronix ignitor to solve that issue.Then i would play with the plug gap or even the type plugs i was using..i also took the thrmostat into consideration..maybe i was running a thermostat that was too hot or too cold..and i stayed consistent with gasoline..i always used 89 octane..little thngs like that can mess with setting too.lets say the day i began testing i had 87 in the tank..then the next day i ran 91 or 92..then the next day was 89 octane wiith a booster in it.All these things and the changes i was making affected the exhaust reading on the smog tester..while it wouldnt tell me what i needed to adjust it did help me go in the correct direction and could be used as away to gauge the changes after i tinkered with the carb,ignition.when the stinging eye watering and nostril burning rich condition wasnt so obvious,i knew there was still room to 'tighten' up the efficiency.I kept track of every change i made and the exhaust reading from the tester after i made each adjustment.And just to satisfy mu curiosity i actually had the falcon smog tested..not required where i live..it passed 1998 emission standards! not too bad for a 289 that had a home port job,a small aftermarket camshaft,An autolite 4100 4bbl carburetor,pertronix ignitor ignition module,glass pack mufflers and no catalytic convertors..a short while after that is when i took the car to a dyno tuner and had it fine tuned..the only thing the guy reccomended for changes was switch to 'Bosch' sparkplugs,a better quality plug wires,a better flowing intake manifold|
|12-05-2012 09:29 PM|
|vinniekq2||sorry,I knew it was a chassis dyno. Magnetic or inertia? with a magnetic you can tune the car without running the engine to the redline|
|12-05-2012 09:04 PM|
|Hookedup12||Rwhp dyno just for tuning I'm not worried about numbers I'm happy with what I have just want to make sure I'm not robbing it of power.|
|12-05-2012 04:42 PM|
|vinniekq2||dyno tuning,what kind of dyno?|
|12-05-2012 04:29 PM|
|Hookedup12||Yeah I went one heat range colder on my plugs and had to use a bigger pump nozzle in my holley. I was totally surprised with the car I'm carrying it Tomo to get it tuned on a dyno and will post some numbers ill try to uploa a pic of it on the dyno|
|12-05-2012 04:22 PM|
|Hookedup12||Bump bump bump|
|12-05-2012 03:29 PM|
|greazyball||Thats awesome! you know what i liked best about running a 289 that was pretty quick and nasty,And could beat a 350 camaro or 340 duster?..when the owners of the cars i beat asked 'Hey,what engine are you running,And what cam etc?..i would tell a lil white lie and say 'its a 221 from a fairlane'...they would get a bit ashamed they just got beat by an engine that has less cubes than a slant 6 chrysler hahaha!!..i even added the valve cover and air cleaner stickers that read '221'..the 221,260,289 and 302 all look exactly the same at a glance.Like you i had to use steeper gears,expieriment with different sized tires and rims,all to make maximum use of the rpms that i had available and to make up for the power i didnt have.Plus at the time,my falcon was not anywhere finished i ran it around with gray primer,plain steel wheels (all different colors) there was no upholstery to speak of..and what was there,Was ratty and ripped.All the holes in the convertible top were covered with bumper stickers from a radio station.But underneath,I had mustang II suspension,everything in the steering,brakes,rear axles had been rebuilt or new.I spent all my money on the running gear and stopping power.|
|12-05-2012 11:56 AM|
|Hookedup12||Well this thing pulls pretty damn good. I swapped rear gears to 4.11 just to run it up the street for a little and wow this thing is mean for a little 289. Heads turned out to be gt40 from what my machinist said, so I lucked up on that end and I think with a little 75-100 shot I could get some decent times from this thing. Cam turns perfect for my kinda drivin|
|12-04-2012 11:16 PM|
I had a friend just sell a really nice little 65 Falcon Convertible. It was a factory 289/4spd car. He did the revamp on the 289 2 barrel motor to a 289HiPro with parts I sold him, C50E-A heads, C50E-9425 intake without the emissions hole in the back and the 3/8" bolt rods.
I used to have a ton of HiPro stuff...........but with the prices on it so high..............I sold most of it because I was't going to build a 289 again.
If it were me I'd update the motor, paint it Ford Blue and make it reliable with aftermarket heads and roller hydraulics with a cam similar to the original HiPro and maybe a Cobra alminum intake..........................IMHO
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