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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-08-2013 07:10 PM
jaw22w I realize this thread is a little old, but Mark 2268 mentioned a product called All Metal body filler. My question is- Can this product be used if the frame is going to be powdercoated?
12-23-2012 08:07 AM
1Gary There is a user name "Shine" on another forum that is a sandblaster for yrs.He very accurately said it is volume of air and the sensitivity in distance to the item being blasted that makes for a good job or one that has ruined the item.You got me wondering if it is rust pits or a result of the sand blasting.Pictures please.
12-23-2012 06:08 AM
69 widetrack Thanks for that piece of attention to the frame areas that I mentioned also the splash shields above the running boards, if they seem a little tender (and often they are) let me know and I'll let you know a reinforcement fix for them.

12-22-2012 10:07 PM
peteandrepete232 its is a model a thought i posted but a forgot the a lol
12-21-2012 07:59 AM
Originally Posted by dinger View Post
Epoxy primer over the metal, then i would skim the frame with a thin coat of some good pklastic filler. Get it smooth, I wouldn't worry too much about it being perfectly straight, just get it looking good.

12-21-2012 07:11 AM
OneMoreTime When filling pitting on a frame just use enough material to fill the pits and that is all you need to do..

12-20-2012 11:54 PM
dinger Epoxy primer over the metal, then i would skim the frame with a thin coat of some good pklastic filler. Get it smooth, I wouldn't worry too much about it being perfectly straight, just get it looking good.
12-20-2012 07:27 PM
prostcelica X2 long john
12-20-2012 02:38 PM
69 widetrack Your more than welcome...if you need any more help or information, especially when you get to the body, (if it is a Ford, you haven't mentioned it yet), you'll find the splash shields just above the running boards to be a week point on the body, there are ways to tighten them up so feel free to ask, I'll help wherever I can...and yes, post pictures.

Good luck

12-20-2012 02:32 PM
peteandrepete232 thanks everyone this has been a BIG help I'll post some pics as soon as I start
12-20-2012 10:28 AM
John long The problem with not filling the pits is this. It will look good until it leaves the garage and is driven. If you don't get the frame, and components, slick it is absolutely impossible to wash it and keep it clean. A rough or pitted frame will become an eye sore very quickly and really shows under a restored car that sits high off the ground.

I have never seen body filler, All Metal, or high build primer fail on a properly prepared chassis. Any will work depending on the depth of the pits. I suspect if this is an unrestored car that a body filler over epoxy would be the best and most cost effective. Post some pictures as you go.

John L
12-20-2012 07:06 AM
lakeroadster A few pictures would be great.

If you are restoring I wouldn't use any filler on the frame. The stock frames twist alot and the filler will likely pop loose over time.

Now if you were hot rodding the frame and added boxing plates and maybe a k-member to the frame I'd think the filler would work.
12-20-2012 06:42 AM
Mark2268 At your local paint supplier there is a filler called ALL-METAL Body filler. It is a much more durable filler than the average Bondos. Check it out, it goes on smooth and I believe this will fit your needs perfectly. it is also good for any year vehical.
12-19-2012 09:41 PM
MARTINSR I say if it is pitted bad enough to box it get another frame! I wouldn't think of boxing a stock cars frame, they work just fine.

How deep are the pits? Really, put a straight edge of over them and see how deep they are. But they would have to be REALLY bad to worry much about it with a stock drive train.

12-19-2012 08:51 PM
prostcelica If it were me and the pitting wasnt a structural issue(If it is take Ray and techs advise). Id skim the pits with regular body filler first. Block that down then prime with a high build urethaine primer like Clova prime 55 (dont know if you have a cloverdale paint where you are). Then wet block that down with 320 (If you use a guide coat it will tell you when the frame is completely sanded). You can them paint on top of that as long as it is a single stage 320 is fine enough. Be sure if you break through with the urethaine high build primer you need to atleast spot prime with an epoxy/sealer. Not a bad idea to just shoot a coat of epoxy sealer on the hole thing before you paint.

Hope this helps
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