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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-22-2012 06:48 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
I try lighting up my wife!! She grunts and roles over slow and then snores

Jester LOL
Hmmmm So where did the painted part come from..............
12-21-2012 09:57 PM
painted jester
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsa_bob View Post
I have the rotor alined up with the "cap". i have been moving the distri; back a tad at a time, The engine now turns much faster, BUT..i get a tight spot where it slows momentarily,... then resumes turning faster. wet plugs now, gas poured down the carb.this thing oughta at least try to fire.it won't even try now. please hang in there til i get her lit ..... the kar not my wife!............. tryin to lighten the mood here.
I try lighting up my wife!! She grunts and roles over slow and then snores

Jester LOL
12-21-2012 12:25 PM
bsa_bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
Look at the harmonic balancer and timing tab...... bump the starter till you get TDC, look at the dizzy cap and get a reference to where the #1 plug wire is located, pull the dizzy cap off and see where the rotor is pointing...... if it's not pointing to the #1 plug wire reference point then rotate the dizzy body till it is (you're going to have to take the cap off several times to do this) That'll get you really close to a fire solution.
I have the rotor alined up with the "cap". i have been moving the distri; back a tad at a time, The engine now turns much faster, BUT..i get a tight spot where it slows momentarily,... then resumes turning faster. wet plugs now, gas poured down the carb.this thing oughta at least try to fire.it won't even try now. please hang in there til i get her lit ..... the kar not my wife!............. tryin to lighten the mood here.
12-21-2012 06:47 AM
bsa_bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...1&d=1356062624

Bob: the white braided wire is the resistor !!! Look for it on the fire wall! There is no block resistor on the 60s chevys! Its the wire itself!! You must have one on the car on the fire wall if it hasn't been removed. This was the only picture I could find that showed the white braiding!! Its between the blue and purple wire in the pic! Forget the #1 & #2 They were on the picture and mean nothing!

Are you working outside on that Bob or in a warm garage?

Jester

NO i quit working o/s 45 years ago i love hotrods Chris..........but.not enough for that. Did a little workin o/s..when i first got married. Chris.i am going to sell this kar, or trade towards a 55 chevy or?. if thats possible .This motor looks great but the rest of the kar ...SUCKS see ya thanks for the help talk at ya again Chris bob s
12-21-2012 05:16 AM
EOD Guy Being that you are getting a blue hot spark when grounding the plug on the block and you have verified the #1 rotor-to-dizzy cap post position and as suggested above with the WD40 in each plug hole to free up the rings....... I'd say sounds like somewhere your plug wires have been switched and your firing order has been screwed up.

Verify you firing order is correct.
12-20-2012 09:11 PM
painted jester http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...1&d=1356062624

Bob: the white braided wire is the resistor !!! Look for it on the fire wall! There is no block resistor on the 60s chevys! Its the wire itself!! You must have one on the car on the fire wall if it hasn't been removed. This was the only picture I could find that showed the white braiding!! Its between the blue and purple wire in the pic! Forget the #1 & #2 They were on the picture and mean nothing!

Are you working outside on that Bob or in a warm garage?

Jester
12-20-2012 08:32 PM
vexzer start it on carb cleaner. it'll save you the cranking & you' will learn a lot about the motor condition quickly.
12-20-2012 05:31 PM
EOD Guy Look at the harmonic balancer and timing tab...... bump the starter till you get TDC, look at the dizzy cap and get a reference to where the #1 plug wire is located, pull the dizzy cap off and see where the rotor is pointing...... if it's not pointing to the #1 plug wire reference point then rotate the dizzy body till it is (you're going to have to take the cap off several times to do this) That'll get you really close to a fire solution.
12-20-2012 04:27 PM
bsa_bob thank you much i'll try that.the plugs look pretty wet and black right now.. bob s
12-20-2012 04:23 PM
T-bucket23 Snug it down and try moving it CCW a little at a time. Dont move it more than a 1/16th of an inch at a time. It must be close if you say it has fired a few times. Sounds like it is a little retarded from your explaination.

A fresh set of plugs may help you. If you have been cranking it a lot the old plugs may be loaded up. I would not use either as it can do more harm than good.
12-20-2012 02:25 PM
bsa_bob no balast resistor on this car.Distributor is loose.............Where can i set it at to rough start it? vacume advance; ex; clear back to fire wall .....half way out forwards........... or all the way to where it stops to the front seems i remember doing this years ago but i could be wrong thank you for any thing on this. bob s
12-20-2012 11:57 AM
painted jester http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...1&d=1356028861

Bob:

The starter will pull power away from the coil unless The "I" (ignition) wire is hooked up! Hook it directly from the starter to the + coil terminal and not through the resistor!! It only supply's power to the coil when you crank the engine!! When the key returns to run position the power doesn't come from that wire any more it comes through the resistor! If your still using a jump wire from the battery by pass the resistor momentarily till it starts and then use the resister once its running!

I'm not saying that's why it wont start but it could compound any other problem your having

Ive also seen animals plug the exhaust systems up so bad as it wouldn't let the engine run!!!!!

Chris
12-20-2012 09:46 AM
Frankinforesthill Hey bob,
Sounds like the old Lack O comperssion.
Pull the plugs, give all cylinders a few squirts of oil crank it over 10 or 9
times. Have a cup of coffee.
Crank the engine over again w/o plugs. Install plugs and start it.
12-20-2012 09:13 AM
cobalt327 I'm going by the statement " the distributor is not loose and it supposedly was driven in to where she sat".

If the distributor was a "tooth out", turning it to restore the correct timing would be all that's needed. The only thing that might prevent that would be the vacuum advance hitting the firewall or intake, preventing the timing from being set right. But I get your point- the timing could be off. Checking the rotor position at TDC will show that.
12-20-2012 09:03 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Good spark rules out most ignition probs.

Check to see if the timing chain is shot. Check the rotor position w/#1 at TDC. Should be just before #1 or #6 distributor cap terminal. If it's not the timing chain has slipped or is very worn (and a car will run like that sometimes- but not well. And restarting it could be very hard).

Could be the rings are still stuck and it has very little compression. A compression test would tell that tale.
Don't rule distributor installed a tooth out.....
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