|12-23-2012 06:08 AM|
|deadbodyman||Yeah I have the same problem down here ,I just did a big 4 dr truck (black) with the Euro clear and its still to soft so I'll let it sit a few days too..One thing I noticed is the Euro cler while sanding and buffing isnt that hard it dosent buff near as well as the universal clearBut its more controlable as far as dry times go by using faster reducers you can get it to dry prety quick if you want too but theres still not much you can do when it gets cold but wait.|
|12-22-2012 12:46 PM|
|swvalcon||I've tryed his euro clear and didn't care for it that much.I just did a jeep hood in his production and its getting cold here. Seemed a little soft the next day so sanded and am giving it another day to dry before I buff it.|
|12-21-2012 08:13 AM|
I am sure all of this is on Barry's forum and I am embarrassed to say I have not spent a lot of time there yet. It would be cool if he would take a few minutes to explain the benefits of each of the clears as well as the techniques for using them. As most of you know I am not a professional but have done all my own metal work and paint for 40+ years.
The thing that has always made me a little different from my friends is I love the technology involved and am always thirsty for advise from those that know more than I do. All my buddies thought I was crazy when I painted my car with catalyzed acrylic enamel in 1977 instead of lacquer. That car is finally going into the shop this winter to have it's first repaint. 35 years ain't bad.
Someone once said you don't learn while you are talking. The secret is knowing who to listen to for advise. I generally read any post by Mike(deadbodyman), Ray(69widetrack), or Brian(MartinSR). Swvalcon and others on here also have a wealth of knowledge. The key is figuring out who to listen to and who is of the "I always did it this way and don't want to change" mind set. With government regulation and changes in technology not only do the products continue to change but so does the equipment. None of us will ever know it all because just about the time we learn it, it changes.
|12-21-2012 06:47 AM|
|12-21-2012 06:34 AM|
|swvalcon||I just reduce it a little and add one more coat if I want to sand and buff. Try the production clear you'll like it.|
|12-21-2012 06:08 AM|
|deadbodyman||John,If you were a production shop I'd say sure just reduce it about 10% but I know what your looking for and something about reducing it just goes against my grain .I'd try the 1.5 and try dialing the gun down first.I've never used a 1.5 so I cant tell you for sure. I can tell you this though,lately (since my Iwata 1.4 is down ) I've been using Barrys Euro clear with a 4:1:1 out of my Sata 1.3 and its working beautifully...I just finished a big 4 dr truck (black)without a single run ,and its slick as glass...It figures too because I was waiting or my new gun to come and couldnt wait any longerI finished the truck at 3:30 and 4:15 my supply man called and said he had something for me and he'll bring it by in the morning. (my new gun)|
|12-20-2012 09:33 AM|
I hope the OP feels this goes along with his question.
|12-20-2012 05:58 AM|
|deadbodyman||I was a bit disappointed when I tryed spraying it out of my new SATA 1.3luckily I was just doing a hood but I had to go so slow I'd never be able to do a whole car with it. I use an Iwata with a 1.4 and get great results at my proper speed.However the 1.3 Sata is a much better base gun and it sprays any reduced 4:1:1 type clears pretty well ..Spi clears are about all I ever use|
|12-17-2012 11:12 AM|
Use a 1.4 tip as that tip works better...Lay it out wet and slick like you want the finished product to work..Believe it or not if you can get well practiced with the SPI you may not need to buff to have a presentable job..
|12-17-2012 10:18 AM|
what guns are you spraying this clear with? anyone using sata 2000 hvlp 1.3? fixing to spray some this week!