|12-26-2012 06:57 AM|
|deadbodyman||Ray touched on something about lacquer paint,it drys a lot like base coat without much shine until its buffed...since you probably dont want to be hand rubbing or buffing you can use a lacquer clear to get a better shine only a lacquer though...wait till you see how much good quality lacquer thinner costs you'll sheet yourself, if you can find some...|
|12-24-2012 11:57 AM|
As long as you ensure that the air your pulling in from outside is clean, filtered air and the air is as dry as possible (the cone is important here as is the filter) you will notice an improvement. If in Summer, your drawing air from inside the shop, keep the air going into your compressor head clean (void of filler dust etc...again, filters) and you will extend the life of your compressor.
Best to you in the holidays.
|12-24-2012 11:15 AM|
|cyclopsblown34||At the moment it's in a cabinet/closet with pleated filters on the door and on the fan inlet side but I'm thinking if I pull in air from outside the shop, it might be a little cooler,drier and thereby denser in the winter. In the summer I can then go back to pulling air from inside the shop with the conditioned air. i'm always looking for slight improvements to make my end result that much better.|
|12-21-2012 04:33 PM|
|69 widetrack||Just to reiterate about the cone, the cone also helps the moisture issue when it's raining and even helps in high humidity days (not sure why but I found I had less moisture issue with the cone than with out on humid days) ...The cone that I built was just over 2 feet long and about 15 inches wide at the large end...and sealed to my inlet pipe.|
|12-21-2012 04:25 PM|
|69 widetrack||Not a problem...you say your compressor is in a cabinet...can you open the doors to the cabinet? Just mentioning that because you want air to flow over the electric motor and the compressor head to cool it as well. As far as venting your incoming air from outside and your from Missouri it should work fine...Have your incoming air spout pointing down (I know I probably don't need to mention it but for some other people that might be reading this post and it may help) and have a filter on the the down spout. I ran this set up in Norther Alberta and it made a difference...I also shielded the down spout with a metal cone, like the one that a dog gets so he can't like his wounds...I did this because if your putting 29 CFM out of your compressor, your pulling a lot of air in as well, just added protection, you don't want to suck all kinds of crap into your compressor like neighborhood children and small barn yard animals.|
|12-21-2012 04:15 PM|
Thanks Ray, one other question I wanted to post in another thread. I built a compressor for 29 CFM delivery and it is in the shop in a cabinet. After reading your comments in the LVLP gun thread I started wondering if I were to plumb it to pull outside air from the north/shaded side of my shop, might I see a possible reduction in moisture in my tank. My plumbing system is doing its job and giving me dry air but I'm just thinking for possible longevity of my tank as i do get water in it and the drip legs.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge,
|12-21-2012 04:07 PM|
So then the price is right...oh and by the way, no activator in lacquer...have fun, it's one old technology in paint that I still like. We can't buy it in Canada anymore, but some of the best paint work ever was lacquer...It's only downfall, (other than the usual fading...but can be polished right up again) is cracking. That's due to drastic weather changes and the difference in contraction and expansion of metal versus lacquer paint, but even that took years to happen in most cases. With an epoxy "cushion" in between the lacquer and the metal, it should give you a long lasting finish.
|12-21-2012 03:53 PM|
|cyclopsblown34||the patio furniture is late 50's/early 60's stamped steel with a tubular frame. I figure I'll have some fun with the paint. i got it from a buddy when his employer went from being a DuPont distributor to being a Sikkens distributor. it was all unopened. Silver, black, white and red. All in quarts.|
|12-21-2012 03:21 PM|
|69 widetrack||Well, if it's automotive Lucite from Dupont it's lacquer and can be cut (reduced) with a quality lacquer thinner...if all you use is epoxy primer and you want to put it on your patio furniture, great, I did my mother in-law's antique (about 100 years old) rot Iron patio furniture 3 years ago...Sand blasted it, 2 coats of epoxy, 2 coats of single stage urethane and it looks better than she ever did...rust never came back.|
|12-21-2012 03:15 PM|
|cyclopsblown34||It's car Lucite. i keep epoxy as the only primer in the shop.|
|12-21-2012 12:12 PM|
Two different kinds of Lucite...House paint and automotive lacquer.
If the Lucite your talking about is the old Dupont Lacquer Lucite, use a virgin thinner, (by virgin I mean not gunwash but real, clean thinner)...You can reduce it to whatever you think will get through your gun and spray right. I haven't shot lacquer in years...but love the stuff...still one of the best shines you can get after a quick cut and buff...Just make sure that you lay down a good sub straight with rust inhibitors, lacquer is porous and rust will start quickly with out proper metal preparation, Epoxy is great, maybe to thick for and expensive for patio furniture, so try some etch and shoot over top...Some of those old lacquers don't shine much unless polished but give it a shot...
If it's house paint Lucite, paint thinner from Home Depot will thin it out.
Hope this helps
|12-21-2012 11:12 AM|
Lucite reducer question
What do i use to reduce or thin Lucite? Does it warrant activation? I've had this stored for a while and am finally ready to spray my patio furniture with it in between work. Thanks, Chip.