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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-28-2012 06:21 PM
51 styline Personal experience from years ago( 1963). A good friend of mine had a stock 55 Chev ,265 3 spd and it ran real good , and it was stock with a 4bbl carb. One day he wound it up and just as he was ready to shift to second gear the clutch exploded ip through the floor and in to his right foot. A piece of the pressure plate came up and bent his steering column and he couldnt steer. Luckily the road curved and he coasted to the shoulder where he braked with his left foot. So YES by all means run a scattershield . I went out the next day and bought one for my 55 which had a 283 with fuelie pistons a Duntov fuelie cam& solids that i was shifting at 7500 RPM.
12-24-2012 08:29 AM
prostcelica
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Yeah, it is a huge safety issue. Add to the fire, that some or most of the clutches and flywheels being sold today COULD be made offshore. A steel can is just is not that expensive. Check Racing Junk, maybe find a good used one that isn't dated.
Thanks tech. That's a good idea. I never thought of racing junk. Ill have a look on there.
12-23-2012 10:35 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcelica View Post
it sounds like a huge safety issue.
Yeah, it is a huge safety issue. Add to the fire, that some or most of the clutches and flywheels being sold today COULD be made offshore. A steel can is just is not that expensive. Check Racing Junk, maybe find a good used one that isn't dated.
12-23-2012 09:34 PM
prostcelica
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Just be aware that most SFI components are dated. Don't buy something that is out of "cert" or will be out of cert soon.
6.1 Flywheel Shield, Spec 1.1 & 1.2
(2-Disc Max, or 3-Disc, 8-inch dia. Max) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 years
6.2 Flywheel Shield, Spec 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 & 1.5 Clutch. . . . . . . . 2 years
(Check with Manufacturer; May Be Only 1 Year)
6.3 Flywheel Shield, Spec 1.2, 1.3 & 1.4 Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . 2 years
(Check with Manufacturer; May Be Only 1 Year)

If there is no SFI tag on the piece at all, walk away.
Thanks for the great advice tech. I won't run quicker than 11.5 (ill be happy if I break into the 11's ) but It seems like I should still run something better than a stock bellhousing as it sounds like a huge saftey issue.
12-23-2012 07:20 PM
prostreet6t9 Good advice Tech.. Most of the problems come up when it's "not" a NHRA sanctioned event and the local guys are doing it. I dont have problems with tech because my car in all to date.

But I see them being a holes to one guy but lets it go with the next guy about the same thing.
12-23-2012 05:36 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcelica View Post
Ok guys need some more advice. So it turns out the scatter shield he has requires a smaller fly wheel and clutch. He has everything he can sell me but he wants $900 for the hole works. (tildon scatter sheild with bolt on throw out bearing, Mcleod twin disc clutch (good for 800hp), Mcleod Aluminum flywheel. The problem is with everything I still need to buy to get my car going I dont really have the cash to shell out for everything. Being that there is no way I am going to run without a scatter shield I wanted to see if you guys think I could limp by on what I have till I can get the cash together. When I take it to the track I will be launching it on Drag radials.

Est. 450hp/400ft#
Street occasional strip
2500# car
Saginaw 4 speed
Ford 9" 355
Lakewood Bellhousings 77-150 - SummitRacing.com
This Scatter sheild
Zoom MU Series Clutches MU5505-1 - SummitRacing.com
This Clutch (Already have)
RAM Throwout Bearings 78125 - SummitRacing.com
This bearing (already have)
Just be aware that most SFI components are dated. Don't buy something that is out of "cert" or will be out of cert soon.
6.1 Flywheel Shield, Spec 1.1 & 1.2
(2-Disc Max, or 3-Disc, 8-inch dia. Max) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 years
6.2 Flywheel Shield, Spec 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 & 1.5 Clutch. . . . . . . . 2 years
(Check with Manufacturer; May Be Only 1 Year)
6.3 Flywheel Shield, Spec 1.2, 1.3 & 1.4 Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . 2 years
(Check with Manufacturer; May Be Only 1 Year)

If there is no SFI tag on the piece at all, walk away.
12-23-2012 05:07 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9 View Post
Its too bad all the Track Tech's Don't go by the same page and follow the same rules. They can get pretty sketchy in the NW.
I ended my tech career at Firebird International Raceway after 20 years as Tech Director and trainer.

I never, ever told a racer that he had to jump through a hoop unless I could show it to him in black and white in the current NHRA Rulebook and I taught all my students to do the same. I suggested that they imagine a Judge watching over their shoulder as they teched the car and talked to the owner/driver. I remember teching the Budweiser King and suggesting to Kim that the diaper needed padding in it to absorb oil. She got right in my face and said "show me". I opened the book and read the verbage to her. We were pretty fair friends after that, because she realized that I was a professional the same as she was. Here's the verbage from Top Fuel rules....
"A nonflammable, oilabsorbent liner mandatory inside of retention device"

Word would get back to me pretty quickly if one of the tech guys gave a racer a hard time and a word to the Race Director would have the offending tech inspector squared away or gone. I ran the Tech Dept. as a business, just like any other business where you have a provider and a customer. You must be polite with the racers, yet there is a firmness that is necessary, based on the fact that you know what you're talking about and are able to convey the necessities of the situation to the racers in a non-confrontational manner. It goes the other way also; many times in the tech line when I have seen an exceptional way that the racer fabricated something on the car or the way he installed the seat belts or rollbar or cage "by the book", I would call all the other tech inspectors over to look at the car to see how "textbook" actually looks on a real car. Ask me if the owner/builder would grin ear to ear.

I held a National Silver-certified SFI technical inspection license, a National NHRA chassis certification license and National NHRA Fuel Check license.....all the credentials I could hold without being employed full-time by NHRA. I taught many new fellows to be good technical inspectors, with a dozen or so of them achieving the credentials that I held.

If you're having trouble with tech inspectors at a certain track, then the first thing you want to do is to get together with some of the other racers who have had problems at that track and elect a spokesman who will represent all the racers involved. Have that person contact the Race Director or Track Owner/Operator and explain what's going on and the fact that he/she is representing X number of racers who also have had trouble in the tech line at that track. If the Operator realizes that there is a problem in the operation of the tech line, then hopefully He/She will have enough business sense to correct the problem. If the Operator turns a deaf ear, then threatening a boycott of the track would be the next tactic I would employ. If you start gettin' into their pocketbook, they'll usually listen.

If you feel that you need some help from the big guns, please do not hesitate to contact either or both, the NHRA Division Tech Director or the NHRA Division Director. That's what these guys do, work as a liason to keep everything "jake" for the racers out there.

Jonathan Adams, Division Director
818 39th Ave. S.W., Suite A3
Puyallup, WA 98373
253-446-6594
fax 253-446-6683
email jadams@nhra.com

Dave Schaffel, tech consultant
306-374-3685
fax 306-477-7707
email dschaffel@nhra.com
Monday and Friday, 7-9 PM, PT

Another way around this getting hassled is to do an extended technical inspection on the car. Call Jonathan and ask where you can get an "ETI". Sometimes the Division Director will hold a chassis certification seminar at a particular track and there would be plenty of qualified technical inspectors available to tech your car and issue an ETI that is sort of like a pass for the following year. You just pull up to the tech line, show your ETI to the first available tech inspector and he signs you off to go race. That is unless he is a complete DDICK, in which case he will have to show his authority by re-teching your car. Some people just do not belong in a position of authority.

You racers will not be out of line to ask to see the tech inspector's SFI card. The first entry level is a bronze tech inspector, then a silver tech inspector, then a gold (you must work for NHRA full-time to get a gold card). If your inspector isn't certified at all and is trying to tell you something that you know is wrong, ask to speak to a silver-certified inspector. If that fails, ask to speak to the Race Director or Track operator.
12-23-2012 10:24 AM
vinniekq2 Make sure the saginaw uses the same scattershield as the richmond? and if you plan to make power,consider a TKO 5 speed,brand new retail they are 2200. extra gear,,extra strong,,different scattershield
12-23-2012 05:25 AM
prostcelica
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
That Saginaw 4 speed wont hold up!!!!

Jester
Yeah, I know. My buddy has a Richmond 4 speed sitting in his shop waiting for me but unfortunatly I dont have an extra 1200 bucks sitting around at the moment. Figured Id run the saggy until it blows up (probably the first time i hit second gear with sticky tires on a preped track). Hopefully buy that time Ill have the cash to buy the Richmond from him
12-23-2012 01:32 AM
painted jester That Saginaw 4 speed wont hold up!!!!

Jester
12-22-2012 08:23 PM
vinniekq2 You could probably get away with a jobber clutch with the saggy
12-22-2012 08:17 PM
prostcelica Do you guys think I will be ok with the clutch that I have for what I want to do with the car?
12-22-2012 07:47 PM
vinniekq2 Im using a single diaphram 11 inch clutch and a semi light weight steel flywheel(all sfi approved parts). Not sure how light of flywheel you need/want? the good stuff is very good quality,nothing has broken yet. I dont drag race but I have done some comparative driving with some of my friends
12-22-2012 07:40 PM
carolinacustoms JMHO the alumium flywheel and dual disc clutch would NOT be street friendly if it is anything like what we used to run in our late model dirt car. Think of it like putting a 4,000 stall in a auto, not impossible but not very street practical either. Again just my opinion anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong
12-22-2012 07:25 PM
prostcelica How come Vin. Do you think that clutch ans a stock flywheel will fit the bill?
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