|12-26-2012 09:15 PM|
If that's the case, with the engine fully warmed up, rotate the choke cover (the round black plastic part that has the electrical terminals on it) counter clockwise until the choke is fully open. This will be a rough setting, the cover will very likely still need fine tuning.
There are notches on the choke housing and cover to use as a guide (circled on image below), keep track of the setting by using them. In fact, the notches should be way off if the choke cover is out of adjustment. Putting the cover back to between "RICH" and "LEAN" marks should be the default setting unless something is amiss w/the choke coil.
|12-26-2012 08:53 PM|
cobalt327, the way I understand what he said is the the choke plate only has a 1/4 gap. It was idling about 2000-2500 rpms for 15 minutes. He jump in and took a ride for about five minutes and when he got back it was idling about 1500-1800 rpms. When he diconnects the wire and drives it the idle will drop to 500-700 rpms. The choke is still fully engaged after warm up. May be he doesn't have a ground wire hooked up. Or maybe he needs to loosen the 3 screws and adjust the choke cap until the choke plate opens.
|12-26-2012 08:05 PM|
What puzzles me is you saying it idles down when the choke is disconnected. Does that mean the choke is fully open when the engine is hot and the choke disconnected?
But the choke will not open fully, allowing the engine to idle down off the fast idle cam when the choke is connected to power?
|12-26-2012 07:09 PM|
I think it has arrows on the cap. You can just move it. Little one way then the other and see what works best. Mark it before you start with a paint marker so you can always return to that setting a line across the plastic and metal should do the trick.
Also remeber edelbrock will walk you thru the setup of the choke over the phone for free. Some of the guys there are pretty smart and can help you get it workedout. Also the instructions on how to adjust the choke are on the net for download.
|12-26-2012 06:50 PM|
|thefox||the engine when its hot the choke flap has a 1/4 in gap. i have never messed arorund with the choke plate the one with the 3 screws holding it. i dont want to mees it all up i have no clue what way to turn it when the engine is hot. and when the choke is not hooked up when the car is warmed up it idles fine 500-700rpm. thanks for all your info|
|12-26-2012 05:53 PM|
(It should be wide open when the engine is at operating temperature.)
If it's not ... is there still power at the choke cap with engine running?
12V or 15V?
Have you tried adjusting (rotating) the choke cap so that the choke IS open at operating temp?
|12-26-2012 05:48 PM|
Adjust the idle mixture screws on the front of the carb while its hot. With the choke hooked up it should still fire off when cold then idle down when hot.
But this only happens when the choke is hooked up without it runs normal? Maybe the choke needs to be tweaked or is not hooked up properly.
|12-26-2012 05:17 PM|
|thefox||hello guys so today i checked for leaks and hooked up the choke. got in the car turned the key and she fired right up it idiled at 2000-2500 for ten min and never kicked down i checked for power at the choke on the carb and there is power now its been 15 min still no kick down on idle so i got in it took it for a boot for 5 min got home still high idle like 1500-1800. any clues or tips to get her to kick down when she is hot. thanks|
|12-11-2012 08:22 PM|
I'd start with Cobalt's proposed solution before I went off chasing ghosts.
Making sure that what you have is set up properly should always be step one.
|12-11-2012 07:54 PM|
|thefox||thanks guys will try this stuff out this weekend|
|12-11-2012 09:52 AM|
Your engine does not have to run hot to boil the gas from the carburetor. Try a heat shield to prevent the gas from boiling away after you shut your engine down. Edelbrock 9266 Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gasket. Holley and Mr.Gasket sell them also. Be sure to have your fuel pressure set at 5.5 psi. Another problem you could have is the way you have your timing curve setup. You might have your throttle blades open to much uncovering the transfer slots. You must remove the carburetor to adjust this setting. To start, the primary is adjusted to have .020 of the transfer slot showing. The secondary transfer slot will be closed. You will not have to open this unless the idle is too low. Reinstall the carburetor and start the car to see what rpms it idles at. 850-900 rpms would be good for idle after it is warmed up. You will need a timing light with an advance knob. Set the knob to zero. Unplug the vacuum hose from the distributor and plug it. Set the initial timing at about 10*-12* BTDC. If the idle is too low advance the timing until your rpms read 850-900. This might take around 16* BTDC. Then have someone hold the rpms to about 3000-3500. Point the light at the scale and turn the the knob on the back of the timing light until the line on the balancer aligns with zero on the scale. You will want 36* on the timing light. Turn the distributor until you get 36* then lock the distributor. Read this article it has all about setting your timing curve and your carburetor's transfer slots. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...EI_distributor Here is the link to the Edelbrock 1406 manual http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...404_manual.pdf
|12-11-2012 05:23 AM|
My car will not start at all without the choke unless its warm out. in winter forget it. Better chance of flooding it than have it start with out the choke.
The electric choke should stay active for 10 mins or so. My poncho needed th choke for 20 mins if just idling in the drive. now take it out and punch it she would heat up quickly. So that is normal behavior for the choke to keep the fast idle for a few mins. Just adjust it down a tad and you should be fine. Fast idle should be no more than 1500 rpm or less.
Now with everything in working and hooked up if its still surging that is another issue to deal with. At this point fix whats in front of you and move on to the next problem.
|12-11-2012 03:28 AM|
If hooking the choke wire to the choke doesn't put the choke light out, the first thing to check is for a blown fuse- that can cause the choke light to come on and is the easiest thing to check.
The alternator malfunctioning will also cause the choke light to come on. Funny thing, the choke being bad will not make the choke light come on, but that's another story.
Something to check for the excessive pumping of the gas to get it to start is the accelerator pump. It's easy to check: With the engine OFF, look into the primary side of the carb (side w/the choke blades) using a flashlight and work the throttle open and closed. Every time you open the throttle there should be two streams of gas coming from the accelerator pump discharge nozzles. The streams should be nice, full shots like from a small squirt gun, and not bubbly or frothy/drippy, if you follow me. And the streams should come just as soon as the throttle blades start to open.
The Edelbrock owner’s manual is here. With the info from it and from Edelbrock Performer Series Carburetor- Complete Guide to Set-Up, Tuning, and Performance Jetting, you should be able to tackle most any carb related problem.
|12-10-2012 09:49 PM|
|thefox||No they told me it will take hours to figur iout why the choke light is on my dash. But when i have the choke hooked up it does start alot easyer but it takes forever to kick down and it goes into fits of high idles all my hoses are new so i dont think the leaks are from there but ill recheck and tinker around with the choke again thanks guys ill keep you up to dat|
|12-10-2012 09:31 PM|
Takes brass ones to charge 250 for this. Did they find any problems other than the choke?
Edelbrock 1478 Edelbrock Carburetor Choke Kits
You may even need less than 50 bucks worth of parts to fix it.
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