|01-05-2013 02:12 PM|
here one o fthe ones i built . i reused the stock lower and middle section but did a whole new top
heres the cutup stocker
and what i made
urs will be much simpler to make over what i made for my car
for the plenum u want a flat bootom were the runners meet it, and u want all entrys bellmouthed , then use a half round plenum , u can tune runner lenght a lil bit to fine tune the intake
what i would do is make the plenum bolt to the runners , so u can make 2-3 diff sets of diff lenght runners and see what works best
|01-05-2013 02:02 PM|
what cam/s do u have in the engine and what size turbo charger
whats the engines redline and were do u want it to make the most power
on my 2.8L turbocharged v6 engine i picked up 28hp and 35ftlbs at the rear tires with a manifold i made for it
i shortened the runners 3 inches and and increased plenum volume almost 2.5 times over stock
the plenum volume increase helped it pick up power uptop but made off boost,low rpm driving responce a tad sluggish
|01-03-2013 07:21 AM|
IMO I would keep inside diameter the same and go fairly thin on the tubing especially with gusseting; no sense in adding weight. The tubing gauge from the early 90's Geo Prizm/Toyota Corrolla intake should be fine. You may want to look up some photos of these manifolds as it could be an alternative to the over the top (which is a GREAT design and will yield good low end torque prior to boost).
The engine will be used for low end accelleration/cruise, not just boost and a good normally aspirated design should be adhered to for optimization over the entire range. Log style exhaust manifolds should be avoided as well.
|12-31-2012 11:46 AM|
I am also planning on reinforcing the runners by welding some 1/8th inch between the runners, like webbing. The flange I agree needs to be at least 3/8 inch.
Inside the intake/plenum should I run air horns or just smooth it down with the same idea of the air horn?
Thanks again for the input!!
|12-30-2012 06:09 PM|
long time ago.
50 years ago my engineering college project was designing a tuned injected manifold, as I remember tuned length was calculated using temperature , density and cam and rpm for max horspower. to get the numbers right. But I needed more money to finish college and sold my roadster. but I did get an A on the design project.
|12-30-2012 04:12 PM|
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Now, this is with hot air. I'm thinkin' that with an intercooler, you could use more boost without detonation.
I have little experience with knock sensors, being from the old school and reading spark plugs to get the tune right. I'm sure that most of the high-tech world has passed me by though. A little surfing on the web found this offering that may interest you.....
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As far as reading plugs, buy a 10X lighted exam tool, chop the ignition and coast to a stop after a power run and examine the plugs.
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|12-30-2012 03:27 PM|
My CR is going to be right around 9:1, with a turbo I know that is higher than recommended. Can I place knock sensors on the engine to prevent detonation? If so, where on a loud and noisy 4 cylinder would be the best place?
|12-30-2012 02:55 PM|
In my opinion, tuned port, pressure waves and runner size can be tossed out the window when you go from naturally-aspirated to turbocharger-aspirated. All you will need is a plan to deliver the proper air/fuel ratio to the motor and a way to keep the charge cool. In your case, using FI simplifies keeping the A/F ratio in line. I like your "over the top" runners, same as the intake system on my old '91 Ford 300 six cylinder motor, but I think if I were doing it, I would fabricate an intercooler to fit in that space also.
I understand that you have little room on the driver's side for the turbo unit, but weigh making room there by doing a little surgery on the existing parts against running exhaust tubing to the other side of the motor to run the turbine. I have made the comment many times that with a cutting torch, a Sawzall, a MIG and a good hand grinder, you can make anything fit anything.
I think if I were doing your project, I'd mount everything on the driver's side by doing some surgery, then I might mount an air-air intercooler down low in front of the car.
I'm certainly not the forced induction guru on this board, just presenting a few thoughts......good luck.....
|12-30-2012 02:02 PM|
Thank you for the replies.
Because the intake and the exhaust are on the same side I have been wondering about throttle body and plenum on the other side of the engine with the runners going over the top of the valve cover and then doing a 180° to the intake valve. I am a little leary about the 180° turn.
Here is the stock intake look. With a turbo in there it will be tight.
This is from another forum, but the basic design of what I am thinking about.
|12-30-2012 01:29 PM|
|vinniekq2||do you think it will make much difference in the end?|
|12-30-2012 12:55 PM|
Fabricating Aluminum Intake Manifold, need help
Hello all and Happy Holidays.
I have a stroked Volvo B20 engine that I am building and will be turbocharging and I am looking into fabbing a new intake manifold out of aluminum, yes I do weld aluminum.
My question is about tuned port, pressure waves, runner size to name a few. A cursory search found this article, http://mysite.verizon.net/vzezeqah/s...ionsystems.pdf
Volvo does have a Fuel Injection manifold that I can use, but space will probably be an issue, hence the idea of creating a new intake manifold to make more room for the turbo.
This article points to pressure waves and equations for, as far as I can tell a NA engine. Do the same principles hold true for a Forced Induction?
Any help or direction is appreciated.