|01-30-2013 09:45 AM|
You can use a coarse aluminum bit on iron all that will happen is a rougher surface finish from some chatter the wider flutes create, but they'll cut just fine. Aluminum will gum up the smoother fine iron flute almost instantly. You can kind of get away with the fine flute on aluminum if you frequently run the bit into a piece of bar bath soap. This lubricates the flutes preventing the aluminum from sticking. Same thing if you're cutting aluminum with a rotary stone or drum sander, run the stone or drum sander into piece of bar soap every few cuts and it'll stay pretty clean of imbedded aluminum. This of course leaves your bits and stones smelling clean and refreshing.
|01-30-2013 08:06 AM|
Hey F-Bird check out these bits. will these work ok. They are similar to what you have below.
I guess these are made for cast iron??? I have no idea.
|01-29-2013 08:33 PM|
|vinniekq2||1gary,do you have any experience with super stock engines? How do you measure cfm flow on stock castings|
|01-29-2013 08:19 PM|
We all know as casted OEM heads are all the same.Right??. I'm call it BS. So to follow the same pattern reaps the same results without a flow bench to check if your just hacking away at a pc of metal or really doing better or worst. Taking tech back to what amounts to caveman times is illogical.
The first set of heads done right usually the response is OH!!!. That's what I have been missing..........
|01-29-2013 01:45 AM|
Now that just doesn't make any sense.
|01-28-2013 08:28 PM|
|ChevroletSS||Thanks for the info. Greatly appreciate it. Can you point me in the right direction on some bits to use for porting. All I have is the port and polish kit from jegs which is ok but not efficient. I need something about six inches long id say and one maybe three inches long. A good carbide bit I guess. What do you suggest|
|01-26-2013 11:15 AM|
14101083 Cylinder Head
|01-25-2013 09:37 PM|
|ChevroletSS||Thanks guys. What is the common wall side|
|01-23-2013 06:13 PM|
|ChevroletSS||Ok guys when porting these heads can I smooth these round humps down so its nice and smooth or do I need to keep these there???|
|01-07-2013 10:04 AM|
When you get away from the port pocket things are much more subtle, therefore, it is easy to degrade the overall flow. What seems logical to the eye is most likely not where the flow will or wants to go. Most people reporting here state that there is little to be gained by working the port between the manifold face and the turn into the pocket. This really isn't factual, but this is an area where it is easy to do more harm than good. To tease this out you really need a flow bench and a decent understanding of how gasses respond in a physics sense. There are plenty of web sites that lead you into building an inexpensive flow bench using little more than a decent shop vac as a power source.
As far as getting all ports to match the old fashion way was to arrive a good test port then make templates of the port at critical points. The uncut port is ground at the same points to fit the templates then the material between the template stations is ground to smooth connection between these points. There are people on the web that sell templates for known port shapes.
|01-06-2013 09:44 PM|
|1Gary||Yeah,that's the link I posted earlier in this thread.|
|01-06-2013 05:44 PM|
with the maf style flow bench ur readings can very well channge from day to day so its important if u dont finish in one day to go back and re measure a port u have done so ur ports u still have to do come out to the same number.
the 12 volt supply isnt as importnant as the 5 volt , the 5 volt is what gives the readings , normally the cars ecm supplys the 5 volts to the maf this way if it reads a lil high or low on the 5 volt line the ecm can compensate
in the case of a flow bbench if u have 5,2 volts one day and then 5.4 volts the next day ur results will read artifically high . so each day of testing or when changing from port to port its just as important to stick the dvom on the 5 volt line to make sure voltage is the same from port to port.
if not u can just see what the difference is and add/sub it from the reading u get when taking the flow measurements.
u can always buy 2 cheap vlt metters as well and ties one into the 5 volt feed line permantly and then the second onto the 0-5v output of the maf so u have constant readinsg of both lines
the 12 volt feed is used for the heating of the maf, the 5volt side is were the actual readings take place
|01-06-2013 04:04 PM|
|01-06-2013 03:36 PM|
u build a box u can bolt the head down to one chamber at a time and seal the box up good with some calulking on the inside , i used a 3inch speaker box port on my box to make it eaier to clamp the maf sensor onto .
but u can drill a 3 inch hole in the box and use a piece of 3 inch ex tubing as well and just glue/seal it to the box .
from there u clamp ur maf sensor onto that then u clamp the vac hose onto the other end of the maf .
be sure the maf sensor is oriented so that it reads flow from the box to the shop vac
i forget exactly which maf sensor to use but u have to supply 12 volts on one pin and 5 volts on another , one pin is ground and then u take ur reading with the dvom on the reminaing pin witht he dvom's positive lead, the dvoms ground lead just goes to were ever u have the maf grounded to more then likley ur 12 volt power supply
if this is something u will use a lot build the box out of steel instead as it will last alot longer from the continuous bolting down and unbolting of the cyl heads
|01-06-2013 03:25 PM|
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