|01-14-2013 06:10 AM|
I tried that (while welding) and it works once in a while about 2 out of 10 trys. its very hard to do...
I did try cutting some wire and welding it to the metal and this worked so before I go any farther I'll get my fulcrum puller finshed (homemade)and see if the wire will actually be strong enough to pull a dent...I'm also working on a stud holding attatchmant for the tip so I can weld studs on from my stud welder...This'll work well for the bigger dents...
|01-13-2013 09:31 PM|
|Lonesome Lion||This is not very elegant, but disconnect the ground clamp from the work piece. When you pull the trigger the wire spool will run without any current flowing to the work piece.|
|01-12-2013 05:12 AM|
|01-11-2013 09:17 PM|
|rafterg||or buy the adapter for your mig that Eastwood sells, turns it into a stud gun|
|01-11-2013 01:55 PM|
|01-11-2013 01:50 PM|
I'm thinking going to a thicker wire 035 may also increse my chances of success that thin wire burns up quick...you can also pull more with the thicker wire...
Anybody tried pulling the ground off to get the wire welded on yet???? its pretty tough...
|01-11-2013 10:53 AM|
look at this:
MIG Stud Welding Kit | Stud Welding | Welding Kit | Eastwood
|01-11-2013 10:31 AM|
|slowrider16||could you not just cut a peice of wire to whatever length...or heck just get the studs that the stud gun uses...and weld it to the panel?|
|01-11-2013 07:10 AM|
test for challange
Hey,I think you may already have the tools to do what you want. Rather than cut the power to the voltage the way you are thinking add a auxiliary power switch to the wire feed motor.This should do the trick, but the question now is will the wire do the job. Great idea!
|01-11-2013 06:32 AM|
.but the whole point is to modify the mig so everyone can do it not just the lucky few with stud welders...Keeping in mind this is only for small dents...
|01-11-2013 06:21 AM|
|01-11-2013 06:00 AM|
|Old Fool||DBM - have you considered modifying the grounding tip on the stud welder? Braze a couple of tungsten points onto it that are 1/4" from our each side of the stud. Sharpen them to pin points. Hold the gun up against the panel and wiggle it a little and the pin points should cut thru the paint and find ground.|
|01-11-2013 01:14 AM|
Wire is too thin
My advice is to spring for the stud welder. There is a reason that the pros use this. Besides, you can get one cheap from Harbor Freight. I got the 110 volt model and it works great. Also, if the dents aren't too bad, you can heat the dent with a torch and then apply a wet rag to the dent to shrink the metal. I think the wire from a MIG welder is too thin to be able to pull a dent. If you insist on doing this, keep pressure against the metal with the torch wire as you let go of the trigger, then remove the ground clamp and hit the trigger again to feed wire.
|01-10-2013 10:14 PM|
i'm an electrician, not an electronics guy. i googled mig welder electrical diagram and came up with this schematic (page 36 on the manual pdf link). a magic board controls both the arc and the wire feed motor. the simple way would be to interrupt the ground with a relay and a foot pedal.
my way would be to use a relay and a timer: so that when you let of the trigger a timer would kick in for a determined time and power the feed rollers. set for a second and you would have a seconds worth of wire stuck in the puddle, set to zero and it would be a welder. use a time delay relay like
my bigger concern would be the amount of heat and puddle required to make enough puddle to stick the wire to it.
when i did automated welders we had timers for everything even a timer to reverse the wire feed to pull the wire back for the operator. but those were 600 amp continuous power supplies with separate wire feeds running 7/32 flux core wire at 1 ft per second. now that is some serious welding. 55 feet in 56 seconds to weld the backing plate bracket on a ford super duty axle.
|01-10-2013 07:53 PM|
|25 Ford TT||
welding body work studs
Simple fix....spend $19.00 at Eastwood.com and get their mig tip that is designed to weld on pull studs.....it spaces electrode from work and is cut out so that you'll be able to see what is happening. There is a tube that you load the stud into then pull the trigger....you'll see when to end the weld.
If you still feel the need to do it the hard way...? You'll have a great desigm to copy.
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