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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-05-2013 08:45 PM
64falconsix Thanks Ray .
01-05-2013 08:15 PM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64falconsix View Post
Ray , I know not the correct area to ask but I did not see the site search or I would have looked it up, I plan to cut out the rust and replace with good metal but in the areas where there is some slight surface rust and pitting I was wondering what the best procedure was. I had thought about either blasting or wire wheeling the small area ( chips and scratches ) that have rusted and a few places where there is surface rust coming up. I was searching if the use of a phosforic acid to make sure the rust in the metal pores or bottom of the pits is dead and gone is a bad idea.... maybe because of later adheasion problems or un nuetralized acid. any advice? I currently have 3 coats of paint to contend with 1 the original 2 a repaint and the last paint which was a single stage uerathane, does this need to go back to the bare metal?
If the surface rust areas have pitting, you need to get the rust out of the pits...You mentioned that you have experience with welding and fabricating so I'm going to assume that you have experience with sandblasting. If 80 grit on a DA (Dual Action Orbital Sander) doesn't clean up the surface rust and get into the pitted profile I would sandblast...as I'm sure you know if you sandblast there is a chance that if done incorrectly it could warp the metal...done correctly there shouldn't be a problem. I haven't had the best of luck using a wire wheel on pitted metal to remove rust.

As far as using an acid, there is a product that many swear by called OSFO if I'm correct, I've never used it my self but you could look that up on the forum. Anything I've done in the past if 80 grit on the DA or sandblasting doesn't clean up the surface rust, I don't consider it surface rust anymore and replace the rusted part of the panel by welding in new pieces...(I feel that if either of those 2 methods don't work, the pits are to deep and the metal is to thin...that's my opinion, others may disagree).

As far as having to deal with 3 existing paint jobs...I would say it's time to take it down to bare metal and bring it back up using a quality sandable epoxy primmer immediately over the properly prepped bare metal. That way you know exactly what your substrate is and don't need to worry about, 1 factory paint, 2 a repaint and 3 the single stage urethane paint job that's on it now...just to many variables in the substrate and the old paint is getting thick.

These are my opinions, others may have different views, I'm expressing what has worked for me over the past many years and now it seems most of what I do is older vehicle restorations and customs.

Hope this helps to start, we can get into much more detail whenever your ready.

Ray
01-05-2013 07:36 PM
64falconsix Ray , I know not the correct area to ask but I did not see the site search or I would have looked it up, I plan to cut out the rust and replace with good metal but in the areas where there is some slight surface rust and pitting I was wondering what the best procedure was. I had thought about either blasting or wire wheeling the small area ( chips and scratches ) that have rusted and a few places where there is surface rust coming up. I was searching if the use of a phosforic acid to make sure the rust in the metal pores or bottom of the pits is dead and gone is this a bad idea.... maybe because of later adheasion problems or un nuetralized acid. any advice? I currently have 3 coats of paint to contend with 1 the original 2 a repaint and the last paint which was a single stage uerathane, does this need to go back to the bare metal?
01-05-2013 07:22 PM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64falconsix View Post
Thanks Ray , I am looking for advice and opinons but mostly product and technical expirience so I can choose a direction and move forward on my body work which I have very little expirience in. I was a welder / fabricator by trade so rust repair does'nt scare me, the finish work does. once I get on a roll I am sure I will have a lot of questions for you . as far as the rest I have been doing this for over 30 years and build everything in my garage. I plan to keep this one for a long time so I want to fix the rust and not have to worry about it coming back in a few years.
Sounds great, and when you feel you need help or advice, feel free to ask, happy to help.

Ray
01-05-2013 07:07 PM
64falconsix
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Well the car does look good and well worth it, I don't know how much experience you have but if you need any information on paint and body, I'd be happy to help.

Ray
Thanks Ray , I am looking for advice and opinons but mostly product and technical expirience so I can choose a direction and move forward on my body work which I have very little expirience in. I was a welder / fabricator by trade so rust repair does'nt scare me, the finish work does. once I get on a roll I am sure I will have a lot of questions for you . as far as the rest I have been doing this for over 30 years and build everything in my garage. I plan to keep this one for a long time so I want to fix the rust and not have to worry about it coming back in a few years.
01-05-2013 06:37 PM
64falconsix
Quote:
Originally Posted by donwp View Post
Don, I guess i should have put my intentions in the first post. 1 this is primarily a cruiser and sees very little of the track ( only twice in 4 years ) and will remain compleatley stock except for engine , wheels and and a few gauges so gear ratio and splitting hairs for low ET are at the bottom of the list. Since I drive it on the weekends sometimes 50 plus miles the 3.20 gear with a 24 1/2" tire is the limit for me to be comfortable as I have no plans for an OD. I know what I posted and am not rejecting advice , I appreiciate the reply and willingness to help but this project will be just a cruiser with a warmed over inline six. I only hit the strip to see what the improvement of this combo over the previous 170 six was. previous stock engine ( 170 cube ) 0 to 60 was 19.9 seconds down to 10.46.
01-05-2013 05:01 PM
donwp
Don's 1995 S10 SS

Quote:
Originally Posted by 64falconsix View Post
Old school 64 Falcon 2 dr sedan powered by a Tri -Power inline six. Hoping to both contribute and learn from this site.
01-05-2013 04:48 PM
64falconsix
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDCreech View Post
With more info (shift RPM and tire diameter and your RPM going through the traps) I could probably recommend a gear ratio to get you well into the nines in the eighth, but you wouldn't want to run the quarter mile. Also, you might think about using a better tire, at the track.
Thanks ..... the last time I ran was in 2008 with a fresh untuned engine ( stupid idea ) ran real lean but did'nt hurt the motor, the weather was terrible 92 degrees and 68 percent humidity, I left the line footbraking at 1,400 rpm and spun mildly for about 30 ft or so, I shifted into second at 5,200 rpm and crossed the line at around (not sure ) 4,200 rpm. the tire size at the time was 185/80/13, I am now running a 205/70/14 and shortley some slapper bars. I am not sure I want to go with a lower gear right now. future plans though are an aluminum headed 200 with a 75 shot of nitrous. which will double my current engines output. but I will definatley run this combo again to try to get it into the low 10s or high 9s.
01-03-2013 10:26 PM
WDCreech
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64falconsix View Post
Bill ,thanks, I run a stock c/4 with a 3.20 gear, I think the car weighs in around 2,700 without driver. I have made a few passes untuned and went 10.57 at 61 M.P.H. in the 1/8th with a bit of wheel spin. not a barn burner but enough to have a little fun.
With more info (shift RPM and tire diameter and your RPM going through the traps) I could probably recommend a gear ratio to get you well into the nines in the eighth, but you wouldn't want to run the quarter mile. Also, you might think about using a better tire, at the track.
01-03-2013 09:40 PM
64falconsix Yeah ....to say the least the cruise nights are interesting. The little six gets plenty of attention.
01-03-2013 09:17 PM
69 widetrack Still respectable for a six, I like the fact that it'd not your typical small block 289 or 302...wouldn't be scared to open the hood at any A&W.
01-03-2013 09:10 PM
64falconsix
64

Bill ,thanks, I run a stock c/4 with a 3.20 gear, I think the car weighs in around 2,700 without driver. I have made a few passes untuned and went 10.57 at 61 M.P.H. in the 1/8th with a bit of wheel spin. not a barn burner but enough to have a little fun. The roadrunner had a fresh 318 with a RV cam, edelbrock intake and carb and full length headers.
01-03-2013 09:01 PM
WDCreech
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64falconsix View Post
First off, let me say that is very impressive! What transmission in it and what rear-end gear ratio? Do you know the total weight of the car and do you plan on taking it to the strip, if only to see what it will run?

Bill
01-03-2013 08:39 PM
69 widetrack Well the car does look good and well worth it, I don't know how much experience you have but if you need any information on paint and body, I'd be happy to help.

Ray
01-03-2013 08:36 PM
64falconsix I have had to replace both full floorpans ( due to leaking cowl ) and have the typical falcon / mustang problem problem areas, door corners, cowl and rear fender lip but for the most part in fair shape for it's age. I will tackle the doors first, then the cowl and save the rear fender lips for last.

Charlie
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