|01-12-2013 06:22 AM|
|deadbodyman||Now the fun starts...|
|01-11-2013 09:09 PM|
Cool, you are on your way to a smiling face behind the wheel.
|01-10-2013 10:20 AM|
hey guys, picked the new frame up, it looks good. measured it in all the ways you all suggested. everything checked out. I've got it home now.
Thanks for the help.
|01-09-2013 05:32 PM|
|Too Many Projects||
The rear springs are different between '66 and '67 too. "66 has a large coil on top and '67 has a small coil. The '66 frames did go to the '67 spring later in the production year. If you have a reputable frame shop in the area, take it to them and they can set it up and check it for twist, diamond, etc and straighten as needed. We do this where I work and a bare frame is easy to get straight, unless it is very bent.
What is so bad about yours ? Is it rust damaged or just bent ?
|01-05-2013 08:18 PM|
|deadbodyman||Crap I tried posting pics of his collection but wouldnt take anyway he has about 50 cars and almost all are 65-67 chevelles and elks a couple verts and a good bit of GTO's up to 68...kind of a wierd guy to deal with but most of my friends are...he's also got parts up the ying yang for ya...PM me and I'll give you his number..|
|01-05-2013 07:39 PM|
|01-05-2013 04:01 PM|
Actually I would check it and if it were beyond limits then I would cut it at the factory weld points set it square and level and reweld it..Having a frame with a twist is not all that unusual..
|01-05-2013 03:38 PM|
|jr2009||ok so if it was a bit twisted, would it straighten back out when the body is put back on?|
|01-05-2013 03:28 PM|
Take a 4 foot carpenters level and lay it across the front and rear frame horns to see if there is twist as well.. those frames are a bit flexi flyers without the body on them so not to worry too much as they can be made straight..
|01-05-2013 02:56 PM|
Hey thanks for the info!
I'll take that measurement drawing with me, and measure it all out before I buy. so if the frame isn't straight then and of those measurements wouldn't be correct right? give or take 1/4" or so.
|01-05-2013 02:03 PM|
Here is a place with the specs.
The spot marked is a very common place to have damage from being hit in the front. The frame horn may look undamaged but this area will bend easily.
|01-05-2013 01:08 PM|
|dinger||Brian has made some excellent points. I would look carefully at the frame from the horns (front) to the cross member, look for heated and repaired areas, kinks, rivet replacement, anything that looks out of whack. And like Brian says, 1/4 inch is often what the factory deemed acceptable fo out of square. Moving this to basics, I believe it will get more exposure there, some very helpful info.|
|01-05-2013 11:56 AM|
I don't know the measurements of your frame, but a simple cross measuring will usually tell you an awful lot. Both sides aren't going to be bent exactly the same in an accident, most likely that is. Of course it's possible but usually one is different than the other. Here is a basic cross measuring plan.
Find "control points" that are the same on both sides. The frame is covered with them, very seldom is one side not the same as the other, it will be obvious, just look side to side and if there is a hole in the same spot on both sides chances are they are identical and usable control points.
Those A body frames are very similar all the way from 64-67 among all the makes, Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Chevy, you want to look at the frame ends closely to be sure they are the same as yours. Measure how long they are from control points around the suspension mounting to the over all length. In other words measure from say, the rear shock mount back to the rear of the frames crossmember to be sure it is exactly the same as yours. Do the same at the front. Take some photos of your front and rear frame horns where the bumper brackets bolt, take them with you. This is one area that changes among these frames.
When you do these measurements a little off isn't a big deal and a quarter inch difference is common with these old frames when they were new.
If you can put the frame on a level ground with jack stands under the "torque boxes" that being right at the front of where the fire wall mounts to the rear of the passenger compartment. With the frame sitting like this and you lay a level across the top of the jack stands and it's level you can then put the level across the front and rear of the frame horns and see if those are level to see if the frame is twisted. These are of course pretty basic checks and it would be nice to go crazy with a measurements off the floor and what but you need a REAL nice level floor and you probably won't find one where you get the frame. But if the jack stands are level and you get the frame on top of it at those points the level over the tops of the frame horns is going to do a decent job for you.
|01-05-2013 09:12 AM|
I have recently discovered my frame on my 67 chevelle is beyond repairable and is also twisted, I have decided to junk it. and get a doner.
I found a guy selling a 66 frame. when I go to pick it up what should I be looking for to make sure I am getting a good straight frame? any crucial measurements to take?
any advice is greatly appreciated.