|01-10-2013 03:58 PM|
|sedanbob||I'm having a little trouble visualizing your situation. If the transmission was 3 down and the original rear 3 up, then the new springs raised the back of the chassis, that should have reduced the angle that the transmission was down, not increased it. It should now be closer to level (or raised slightly above level). Without changing anything else, adding lowering blocks to the rear (equal to the increase because of the new springs) should return everything to the previous alignment. You would probably need to use an angled block to adjust the pinion angle now, lowered or not.|
|01-10-2013 12:18 PM|
|01-10-2013 12:14 PM|
I don't really understand the degrees-down and degrees-up description...and how that works with the truck being raised...
...but at the heart of it and however the body sits, the centerline of the trans output shaft and the centerline of the pinion shaft need to be parallel with each other as seen from the side.
|01-10-2013 11:29 AM|
Transmission and Pinion Angles
Can some one PLEASE set me straight on setting the proper angles on the output shaft of the transmission and pinion. I have read so many discussions about this and it becomes confusing to understand.
1951 Chevy Pick-up, 700R4, leaf springs, 1972 Chevy truck differential.
Everything was fine until I replaced the leaf springs. The original springs were pretty flat and the new ones are bowed properly. I now have a rake to the front end. It now vibrates at 65-70. Previously, I set the transmission at 3* down and the pinion at 3* up and everything was fine. Now, I can't raise the transmission far enough to get to the 3* down position. Currently the transmission is at 7* down. I did not build the truck so I am stuck with what I have. If I raise the transmission any further, I pick up all kinds of rattles and vibrations from the drive line touching the body.
Can I keep the transmission at 7* down and set the pinion at 7* up to cancel harmonics?
Thanks in advance for your comments.