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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-14-2014 11:54 PM
painted jester Nice Your garage too !!!! Mine is flooded from the 4 foot snow & ice melting around it LOL !

I'll be up all night sweeping and pumping the water out

Jester
03-14-2014 09:37 PM
327NUT I screwed up...........here's the new home.
03-14-2014 09:28 PM
327NUT The Cad was already .030 with only 30k on the orig rebuild, no ridge or taper so we just kissed the cyls. for a set of cast rings. It's going into this ....Eventually. All new parts except pistons, built it for today's crap gas so it's 8.7:1 comp. but it still dyno'd 466 hp and 535 torque at 4300 rpm. It's going to have this for a home.
03-12-2014 07:46 PM
496CHEVY3100 [quote=496CHEVY3100;2190849]Th
03-12-2014 07:43 PM
496CHEVY3100 Thay looks great looks like the top of cyl have ben taper honed at top to make rings easier to install
What is tha big ole 500 Caddy going in,
shaft mounted roller rockers a nice touch making a stable valve train,
03-12-2014 07:36 PM
327NUT Old thread.........oh well, here's my Cadillac with the Glypta.l
03-12-2014 05:34 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richiehd View Post
That inside is painted with Glyptal, thats painted for oil control. Used extensively in racing applications. There are a couple of threads here on it. Don't worry, it's not coming off.!!
I Know this is an OLD post but as you said to the above post I also paint the inside valley with Glyptal Gray designed for electric motor after gringing valley smooth and chamfering drain backs and I useepoxy to hold in drain back screens to catch any debris,,needlebearing from roller rockers or broken studs or pushrods ,metal chips in oil pump not good ,,as do all racers in this area,

just a side not after cleaning the block as clean as possible I use a heat gun and a hand held propane torch to remove ALL signs of grease ,oil or FINGERPRINTS before painting POR 15 is a great choice there is not a chemical that I have found that will remove it, one of my recent builds
03-12-2014 04:33 PM
bsa_bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by HrdNox View Post
Seal it and paint no need for hi temp.
heres your best answer i would just ad dp-90 let it set 30 minutes then lay your epoxy color. it will be there longer than rattle can.although as was said her earlier/ engine paint doesn't need to be heat proof paint. But non of it stays nice. believe this i know after half my 20 some builds bob s
05-24-2013 09:02 PM
bigdog7373 stap.
thread is old
05-24-2013 08:51 PM
carboy57 makes sure you have the block thoroughly cleaned of all dirt grease and grime. its good to either pressure wash it down with a strong engine degreaser first. I like to use carb cleaner after I do that with a stiff brush, then I wipe it down several times with a good prep solvent and let it air dry.
Personally I just use the dupli -color straight out the can, light coats until I get a smooth consistent color coat. Whether you like to use clear on top of the color I believe is personal choice. I never use the clear unless its a trailer queen.
03-03-2013 05:23 PM
fy54957 I uses Eastwood High-temp-ceramic engine paint (Quart)-$34.99 I PAINT ALL MY ENGINES WITH IT-for about 6 years now.I paint mine with a brush it will paint 4 engines 2 coats -I want uses anything but this paint-I painted the 63 nova engine with it check it out
03-02-2013 10:24 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I don't know about wrinkle, but I used Krylon satin black engine paint for the black parts of the engine on my CR480, and it held up well. The key is prep work! Needs to be super clean, and lightly sanded, then cleaned again. I spray the parts down with brake cleaner and let them sit overnight to dry well. Then spray them, and let them dry well before getting them near dirt or oil.
Engine parts get pretty warm on a bike, so need to use the proper paint or it will flake off.
I used Harley krinkle paint on my Heritage not happy $38 per 16 oz spray bomb,as 71BB427 said i have used the GE electric motor paint for years in lifter vakkey and inside block above crank to help oil drainback IT works and stays on even with heat and abuse of dirt track racind
03-02-2013 07:21 PM
1971BB427
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmaxmotorsports View Post
What do you guys recommend for painting air cooled aluminum motorcycle engines that will last?
I like the wrinkle paint on engine cases but want something that lasts more than a season without having to be stripped and redone,The powder coating guy I use for stuff here locally says he can powder coat the cases to look that way but Im not sure how well it will hold up
I don't know about wrinkle, but I used Krylon satin black engine paint for the black parts of the engine on my CR480, and it held up well. The key is prep work! Needs to be super clean, and lightly sanded, then cleaned again. I spray the parts down with brake cleaner and let them sit overnight to dry well. Then spray them, and let them dry well before getting them near dirt or oil.
Engine parts get pretty warm on a bike, so need to use the proper paint or it will flake off.
03-02-2013 07:17 PM
1971BB427
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmaxmotorsports View Post
That's what that glytol is made for,sealing the inside of electric motors.
People have been using it inside lifter galleys to aid oil return since long before I was around without problems,they also use it to seal the inside of those porous *** Harley Davidson engine/trans castings
GE glyptol red. I've used it for years, and it never breaks down if the engine is clean when you apply it.
03-02-2013 03:35 PM
zmaxmotorsports What do you guys recommend for painting air cooled aluminum motorcycle engines that will last?
I like the wrinkle paint on engine cases but want something that lasts more than a season without having to be stripped and redone,The powder coating guy I use for stuff here locally says he can powder coat the cases to look that way but Im not sure how well it will hold up
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