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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-14-2013 12:53 PM
cobalt327 A 283 could get by w/a T-5, for that matter. Small, light, plentiful, cheap, and has OD.

A .86:1 OD will pull a 4.11 down to a ~3.5:1. I wouldn't go much lower than that w/a 'cammed up' 283 else you might find it won't pull OD at a reasonable speed w/o lugging. If using an OD like .72:1 the rear gear needs to be correspondingly lower to match, like a 4.88 (gives about a 3.5:1 final).
01-14-2013 10:39 AM
kso Whatever you did, I would keep it looking stock anyhow with the intake-mount breather, etc., that rules out any block or heads after '68 whatever the size.

I think "built-283" just seems right in a car of that era. Maybe just use a Richmond 5-speed with it's low first gear, to get rolling w/ some revs, and keep a "normal" rear gear as you say you want a cruiser. (Downside being the Richmond shifter position is back a ways.)
01-14-2013 09:31 AM
dwwl Is this 62 SS got a console shift pg.? If it does, why not leave it looking stock and replace the tranny with a updated tranny. No matter what motor you put into it, you would have more gears to work with and still have it look stock. I'm not sure if the 700 r4 tranny would fit because of it size, but a 200 4r would. That way you can run your low 4.10 gears and have 4th gear overdrive for the road. There is a company that makes new indicatior conversions for the old consols. If you change it to a muncie 4 speed, you have to change alot of things. Its sound like a good project. My best wishes on your project
01-14-2013 06:30 AM
cobalt327 To be fair, only two (me and da34guy) recommended a bigger engine. One other member added he used a 350 to look like a 283 but didn't make a recommendation to the OP to do the same thing, per se. This is a common tatic, even the post linked to below has a recommendation to use a 400 made to resemble a 283.

Heck even a 327 (which was an option in '62 if originality is an issue) would be a step in the right direction as far as low end torque goes.

If it wasn't for the ~3750 lbs. curb weight, I might feel differently. If this was a Chevy II I wouldn't hesitate to use a 283.

Anyway, here's a thread w/a dynosim for a 525 hp 283:
01-14-2013 04:31 AM
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
Tech,I really like the heads you postd.I would use a little more cam myself as I posted before.Not saying either of us is wrong,just thought longer legs would be nice to go with a little more gear. I chose the slightly lower icl and closer lda to get that little punch when the cam comes on from 3-6.
Different colour cat.
As you and I have agreed, there's more than one way to skin a cat.
01-14-2013 01:33 AM
vinniekq2 Tech,I really like the heads you posted.I would use a little more cam myself as I posted before.Not saying either of us is wrong,just thought longer legs would be nice to go with a little more gear. I chose the slightly lower icl and closer lda to get that little punch when the cam comes on from 3-6.
Different colour cat.
01-14-2013 01:08 AM
techinspector1 OK, if I didn't give a hoot about the fact that most everyone on this board was suggesting a mild 350.....and I just had to have a 283, this is what I might do with it. Damn the cost, full speed ahead.......
Check main bearing bores for being round and parallel. Correct as necessary.
Bore and hone cylinders for +0.060", using torque plates and the proper stone and procedures for the rings used.
Registering off main saddle, cut block decks for 9.002" block deck height.
Use these pistons....
KB Pistons for Automotive Applications
With these gaskets....
Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets Q1003 -
To bolt on these heads....
Trick Flow® Super 23® 175 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevrolet TFS-30310001 -

Rebuilt Chevy 5.7 SJ rods will work fine, or you could opt for some bulletproof hardware like these offerings from Scat....
Scat Pro Stock I-Beam Connecting Rods 2570020P -

Mount this carburetor.....
Summit Racing® Remanufactured Quadrajet Carburetors SUM-210216 -
(Chosen for the tiny little primary throttle bores)
Onto this spread-bore Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold....
Weiand Street Warrior intake Manifolds 8126 -
Power range, 1500 to 5500, matches the camshaft operating range....

Install this cam straight up on the marks.....
12-210-2 - HIGH Energy
Or this cam....
12-210-2 - HIGH Energy
Or this cam....
113941+crane+cam - JEGS High Performance....
Or this cam....
Melling 22203 hydraulic flat tappet
214/224, 288/298, 0.444"/0.466", 107/117/112, intake closes 34 @0.050"
Or any other cam that you like that has these kinds of numbers....
With these lifters....either original or V-Max. Call Rhoads and talk to them about the best choice for your combination. 520-229-9375....
Part Numbers

Use 1 5/8" long-tube headers with X or H pipe before the mufflers.
Use 14" x 3" or 4" air filter element.

Find true TDC #1 while you are reassembling the motor. Mark the damper if it is off or buy a rebuilt damper from these guys.....
Damper Doctor Online - Your source for Harmonic Balancers, Motor Mounts, & Drive Shaft Supports

Static compression ratio with 56cc heads, 6cc flat-tops, 5.8cc gaskets, 0cc piston deck height and 597.9 cc's in the cylinder will be 9.81:1. Dynamic compression ratio above 3500 rpm's will be 8.580:1 with the intake closing at 35 ABDC @0.050" tappet lift. Dynamic compression ratio between just above idle and 3500 rpm's will be roughly 8.81:1, factoring in a 10 point drop in duration and figuring that the intake valve will be closing closer to 30 degrees before the lifters pump up than the 35 degrees after the lifters pump up. Not trying to muddy up the water, just taking another route.

After reading DCR results from several board members lately, I think I have been leaving some on the table using 8.5 as a good figure off the KB calculator and that with the very tight 0.038" squish (piston pops out of the deck by 0.003" with a 0.041" gasket), this motor should run fine on pump gas. I have seen fellows running 8.9 on the KB calculator with no detonation on pump gas, but I have been reluctant up to this point to use a higher DCR than 8.5.
01-13-2013 10:47 PM
cobalt327 Torque, torque, torque.

Unless you want to NEED 4:1-plus rear gears, build a 350-plud displacement engine or an LS. With the weight of that car you want torque at a reasonably low rpm, and a 283 is going to be down on low end torque (and basically torque everywhere- even at peak) compared to a 350-plus SBC or even a 4.8L LS and I don't care who tries to tell you different.

Now, if you can deal w/4:1-plus rear gears, then fine and dandy. But I guarantee you, you'll rue the day if you ever have to cover any real distance on the open road.
01-13-2013 09:02 PM
vinniekq2 kcsodafiz
looks like you have 2 helpers here ,now. We need to see where you want to be,not just a horse power number,but how you want the car to perform.remember a 283 is not a torquey engine andwill need to rev a little to feel the horse power. I started with a mild 283 and transmission/gear combo,did you like that? want more or less ,,,,something?
Richiehd is good and even if the 2 of us dont 100% agree,we will get you where you need to be.Hopefully Tech will get in here with some math help,,
01-13-2013 07:54 PM
Richiehd Heres what I m using. Ive got 283 .030 over flatops with eyebrows Heads are basically stock with Scorpion 1.5 rockers, screw in studs and a nice 3 angle valve job. Cam is the 098 Chevrolet solid lifter cam profile from Lunati. Not sure if they call that the Fuelie cam or not. ARP bolts throughout. This motor's in a Jersey Skiff, 300-310 HP or so. Its what the rules require for the class.We run it 6500 rpm all day long.
01-13-2013 07:11 PM
283 engine

Well im kinda confused in all the responses, Vinnie i think i like your thinking on the most part, Im gonna go with your liking, Maybe spell it all out on how you would do this,
Im gonna do the muncie 4-speed, I will gear it and posi, Just looking for a hot rod cruser, Didnt mention this thing has factory air, Kinda wanting to leave it intact and get cooling. Thanks for all the help from everone,
vinnie thanks somuch
01-13-2013 12:21 PM
vinniekq2 fbird,I would like to see the proof on your formula for a 350 HP 283 with the parts you listed.
The math you use is good enough
01-13-2013 11:59 AM
F-BIRD'88 I don;t know how to build a 260 horsepower engine. Unless you yank a few plug wires off the 283 engine I outlined.

But the 283 engine combo combined with the trans/converter/gears etc I layed out will make in excess of 350Bhp and run real sweet on the street.
It will punch way above its weight, at very reasonable cost and even be very reasonable on fuel consumption..
01-13-2013 11:47 AM
vinniekq2 AP72 why dont you post a recipe for a 250 plus horse power 283? and explain the parts list.
anyone else that has a formula also jump in, there are many ways to skin a cat.
remember its a 3 inch stroke engine and a heavy car.Not a race car.
We all might learn something
01-13-2013 11:31 AM
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
I reiterate,not here to argue.
I would not open the intake side,for velocity in port.235 cfm will support up to 500 plus horse power,Im thinking 260 plus horse power.That is why I would not port the intake side .If there was a problem on the intake side I would fix it,nothing else. 2.02 valves fit on a 283. 461s can be finished at or close to 64CCs .porting exhaust side is self explanatory. 112 lda? please explain how that would work on a 6500 RPM 283?

If I was building a 420 horse power 283,I would use heads that flow 240 cfm and still use an intake center line at 102-105.If I use a carb bigger than a 4777 ( 650 double pumper)I would use a 4777 with a base plate off a 4781 (850 double pumper base plate) If you look at my ideas you will see that I mostly recommend items that are high velocity (moderate/small ports,carb with small venturi,moderate lift cam, 2.02 valve with small ports and lower lift) the flow numbers are plenty to support 300 HP. If you have a 283 engine that make 250 plus horse power at 6500 rpm,you also get extremely responsive throttle and the lower ICL makes for the punchie power band that makes a small engine fun to drive. The idle would be a little lumpy but not obnoxious like some of the silly 300 duration hydraulic flat tappet cams.
I admit that no engine combo is perfect,but if I can borrow from the master,Mr Tech,combination combination
I can't really make much sense of all of that, I'm guessing other people can't either.
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