|01-13-2013 10:08 PM|
|PRHeloPilot||Will do then. Thanks.|
|01-13-2013 09:44 PM|
I "choke up" on the wrench or ratchet I use to tighten the fastener. That way I don't inadvertently over tighten it. Not very scientific but it has worked for me.
|01-13-2013 12:22 PM|
|PRHeloPilot||Did you see the carb mount nuts picture I posted? Should I use the "...just tighten the fasteners by feel- snug them down plus "a little bit"..." on them?|
|01-13-2013 11:35 AM|
I use #80632 personally so I can vouch for it. Inexpensive and effective.
The other "go to" sealer I use is Permatex #2. It's thick, so on precision assemblies where torque is low and uber important, I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. But for room temp and above assembly areas (it thickens a lot when cold) w/torques that are over 50 ft/lb, or for freeze plugs, etc. I have no qualms using it.
|01-13-2013 10:22 AM|
|01-13-2013 10:17 AM|
My carb has nuts, not bolts, and that's where my doubt comes in.
|01-13-2013 10:08 AM|
|cobalt327||I'd use a sealant (either will do of the two you mentioned, just not RTV). That area of the block doesn't get much hotter than the coolant temp, so unless the "low temp" sealer is below 350 degrees or so it should be fine.|
|01-13-2013 10:04 AM|
Carb to intake torque is about 15-20 ft/lb for a 5/16 fastener. Use no more than 12-15 ft/lbs (spec is 144 in/lb) on the long through-bolts if bolting on a Q-jet or the casting can warp.
If you're using a thick insulator gasket, retorque until it takes a set, don't overtorque it hoping to make it stay tight.
I always recheck the carb to intake bolts on a new build along w/the intake to head and header fasteners after every heat cycle until everything settles in.
Truth be told, you can just tighten the fasteners by feel- snug them down plus "a little bit".
|01-13-2013 09:17 AM|
Nice ! What I haven't found yet is for the carburetor. I'm going to remove it to paint the intake manifold and still haven't found how much torque to tighten the nuts when I replace it.
After reading your page I noticed the thread sealant. Do I need to use High Temp (Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant) or Regular sealant (Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE) for the 4 bolts that hold the water pump to the engine?
|01-13-2013 09:07 AM|
|cobalt327||Here's another one for the list (work in progress).|
|01-12-2013 09:47 PM|
|02-11-2010 04:38 PM|
|1BAD80||Thank's, That one has been in the Knowledge Base over a year.|
|02-11-2010 03:33 PM|
Here is one for ya
|02-11-2010 02:39 PM|
Why is it no one wants to help themselves and wants the answer without looking or reading.
If you cant find what you want use the chart for the size of the bolt,
That is why there is a Knowledge Base on the site.
Like my Father used to tell me
"If You Ever Need A Helping Hand, There is One At The End Of Your Arm"
site with torque values,
|02-11-2010 02:16 PM|
In cases like that, you go by the bolt grade and thread pitch.
But I'm w/Ap on this- I've NEVER torqued the motor mount or clamshell to the block. And I've never stripped a hole or bolt, or had one loosen up on me either.
Ever tried to get a torque wrench on ALL the intake bolts on a Gen I SBC- w/o a crows foot, etc.?
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|