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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-13-2013 09:08 PM
PRHeloPilot Will do then. Thanks.
01-13-2013 08:44 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRHeloPilot View Post
Did you see the carb mount nuts picture I posted? Should I use the "...just tighten the fasteners by feel- snug them down plus "a little bit"..." on them?
I would. I have to admit here that I have never used a torque wrench on a carb to intake fastener.

I "choke up" on the wrench or ratchet I use to tighten the fastener. That way I don't inadvertently over tighten it. Not very scientific but it has worked for me.
01-13-2013 11:22 AM
PRHeloPilot Did you see the carb mount nuts picture I posted? Should I use the "...just tighten the fasteners by feel- snug them down plus "a little bit"..." on them?
01-13-2013 10:35 AM
cobalt327 I use #80632 personally so I can vouch for it. Inexpensive and effective.

The other "go to" sealer I use is Permatex #2. It's thick, so on precision assemblies where torque is low and uber important, I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. But for room temp and above assembly areas (it thickens a lot when cold) w/torques that are over 50 ft/lb, or for freeze plugs, etc. I have no qualms using it.
01-13-2013 09:22 AM
PRHeloPilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
I'd use a sealant (either will do of the two you mentioned, just not RTV). That area of the block doesn't get much hotter than the coolant temp, so unless the "low temp" sealer is below 350 degrees or so it should be fine.
I'm going to buy the one you showed on that wiki page Permatex Thread Sealant with Teflon #80632
01-13-2013 09:17 AM
PRHeloPilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Yes- on the bolts that go into the water jacket.

Carb to intake torque is about 15-20 ft/lb for a 5/16 fastener. Use no more than 12-15 ft/lbs (spec is 144 in/lb) on the long through-bolts if bolting on a Q-jet or the casting can warp.

If you're using a thick insulator gasket, retorque until it takes a set, don't overtorque it hoping to make it stay tight.

I always recheck the carb to intake bolts on a new build along w/the intake to head and header fasteners after every heat cycle until everything settles in.

Truth be told, you can just tighten the fasteners by feel- snug them down plus "a little bit".
My question was either/or and you just said YES so I figure that means I can use either of them for the water pump? ANSWERED: I was writing while you replied again.

My carb has nuts, not bolts, and that's where my doubt comes in.
01-13-2013 09:08 AM
cobalt327 I'd use a sealant (either will do of the two you mentioned, just not RTV). That area of the block doesn't get much hotter than the coolant temp, so unless the "low temp" sealer is below 350 degrees or so it should be fine.
01-13-2013 09:04 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRHeloPilot View Post
Nice ! What I haven't found yet is for the carburetor. I'm going to remove it to paint the intake manifold and still haven't found how much torque to tighten the nuts when I replace it.

After reading your page I noticed the thread sealant. Do I need to use High Temp (Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant) or Regular sealant (Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE) for the 4 bolts that hold the water pump to the engine?
Yes- on the bolts that go into the water jacket.

Carb to intake torque is about 15-20 ft/lb for a 5/16 fastener. Use no more than 12-15 ft/lbs (spec is 144 in/lb) on the long through-bolts if bolting on a Q-jet or the casting can warp.

If you're using a thick insulator gasket, retorque until it takes a set, don't overtorque it hoping to make it stay tight.

I always recheck the carb to intake bolts on a new build along w/the intake to head and header fasteners after every heat cycle until everything settles in.

Truth be told, you can just tighten the fasteners by feel- snug them down plus "a little bit".
01-13-2013 08:17 AM
PRHeloPilot Nice ! What I haven't found yet is for the carburetor. I'm going to remove it to paint the intake manifold and still haven't found how much torque to tighten the nuts when I replace it.

After reading your page I noticed the thread sealant. Do I need to use High Temp (Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant) or Regular sealant (Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE) for the 4 bolts that hold the water pump to the engine?
01-13-2013 08:07 AM
cobalt327 Here's another one for the list (work in progress).
01-12-2013 08:47 PM
PRHeloPilot I love the search function of this site. After reading about different 12 threads I found this one and found what I was looking for and both on the same page: Torque values for simple things on my SBC (header bolts, oil pan, valve cover) and spark plug firing order, awesome! Thanks guys !
02-11-2010 03:38 PM
1BAD80 Thank's, That one has been in the Knowledge Base over a year.
02-11-2010 02:33 PM
artsvettes Here is one for ya

http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm
02-11-2010 01:39 PM
1BAD80 Why is it no one wants to help themselves and wants the answer without looking or reading.

If you cant find what you want use the chart for the size of the bolt,
That is why there is a Knowledge Base on the site.

Like my Father used to tell me
"If You Ever Need A Helping Hand, There is One At The End Of Your Arm"

site with torque values,
http://www.portlandbolt.com/technica...FRDxDAodqhzHYA
02-11-2010 01:16 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by sooper
Geez ya. Standing there with a pile of shavings of cast from a stripped out block thread on an 8G motor would certainly be a highlight, or did I just mean to say HE!! NO FRIKIN WAY. Ya it mighta been the latter. I'll get some torque values but thanks the same
EZ!

In cases like that, you go by the bolt grade and thread pitch.

But I'm w/Ap on this- I've NEVER torqued the motor mount or clamshell to the block. And I've never stripped a hole or bolt, or had one loosen up on me either.

Ever tried to get a torque wrench on ALL the intake bolts on a Gen I SBC- w/o a crows foot, etc.?
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