|01-15-2013 05:00 PM|
|01-15-2013 12:48 PM|
|01-15-2013 11:04 AM|
I already posted how to get more movement in the wheel cylinders(after perfect adjustment)
The 4 cylinder system uses twice the fluid as a 2 cylinder system,simple math.The bigger bore master will move more fluid,simple math.
SMALLER bore wheel cylinders will take less fluid to make the shoes move,converse to the master,simple math. Also the fluid displacement is double with the four cylinder system and if you DECREASE the cylinder bores(remember I said you could sleeve them if you cannot buy smaller or adapt smaller)the increase of movement and decrease in fluid displacement is also times 4.What you lose is the torque multiplication. Bigger bore wheel cylinders require less pedal energy than small bore.If the pedal effort is too high(IE: disc brakes) then a power booster could be incorporated
|01-15-2013 09:57 AM|
|NEW INTERIORS||I didn't read ever post on this thread.. But do you have all new lines and hose's on this set up ??|
|01-15-2013 09:28 AM|
Adjust the brakes again. The back ones for sure. Adjust the front shoe then the back shoe. You should feel them grabbing the drum as you turn the wheel.
Just so you know changing the size of the lines will not raise the pressure in the system only the amount of pressure it takes the push on the pedal. Leave the lines alone and drive safely.
|01-15-2013 07:40 AM|
I repaired that leaking brake line yesterday and just now finished bleeding them, I have all 4 wheels locked up tight now, I am not happy with the amount of pedal travel though to do it, I would guess it to be about 3/4 of its full travel, of course on the second pump its right up nearer the top.
I do not think there is much else to do as far as bleeding, this is night and day to the first time I went thru this with the smaller bore master so I am pleased in general.
I am going to get it going now and hopefully drive it within the next couple of weeks and see what it does, I do not have any doubt that the truck will stop just fine, I may still have to look at the possibility of adapting a larger bore master cylinder to the booster I have now if this pedal travel is bugging me still.
I see no reason to scrap all of my hard work and head a different direction.
I do however accept that I really do need the larger bore master, it does make that much of a difference so lesson learned.
I cannot help but wonder though what would a smaller diam 3/16 line do, from what I have read putting a larger line say 5/16 will of course increase the volume which is what I want but that will also increase fluid expansion which would possibly lead to a mushy feeling within the brakes.
So what would happen if I went to a smaller brake line, I am thinking that once the line is filled ( with no air ) than it is filled and so possibly adding the addit. pressure to the line may benefit.
Its all speculation, like the saying goes technically a bumble bee cannot fly but I would like to hear your thoughts/speculations on this.
Thanks for all of your help/suggestions
|01-15-2013 05:56 AM|
|Oilyrascal||Stupid question maybe but if I wanted more volume within my system why would I not step up to 5/16 brake line?|
|01-14-2013 06:31 PM|
|01-14-2013 06:02 PM|
I must ask.
Why are you changing from brakes that worked to an unkown???
Why not repair the brakes to factory specs. and have brakes that are safe.
|01-14-2013 05:15 PM|
Thanks anyway though, I think I have about got this licked anyway, I plan to bleed them one final time tomm now that I have the leaking line straightened out and see where I stand.
|01-14-2013 03:42 PM|
|01-14-2013 12:35 PM|
|seltec8||80s F600 used a 1 3/4 hydraulic assist master if you still have problems. Axles were disc/drum or disc/disc with a 2 speed.|
|01-14-2013 04:34 AM|
|01-13-2013 09:26 PM|
It'll take there being no air to have this set-up working correctly; there's no room for air being compressed taking up pedal travel. Once that's taken care of you should be back in business.
|01-13-2013 04:37 PM|
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