|01-22-2013 08:19 AM|
|01-22-2013 07:21 AM|
|big gear head||Yes, if you want to use something wider then now would be the time to do it. Get the wheels and tires first and then make the rear end fit.|
|01-22-2013 07:17 AM|
|01-22-2013 07:07 AM|
|big gear head||The total width is going to depend on your wheels. If you need the extra width to get your wheels and tires to fit then do it. You need to make the rear end the correct width to fit your wheels and tires in the wheel well correctly.|
|01-22-2013 04:54 AM|
|zildjian4life218||Okay so lets say for now if I keep the c clip style axles and the current housing ends and just narrow a section of the tubing how are my numbers looking in my original post? Does it make sense the way I measured everything? Does it seem like a good idea to increase the width to 58"?|
|01-21-2013 02:16 PM|
|big gear head||
If you want to get rid of the c clips then this is the way to go. Do it now and it will cost a lot less than trying to do it later. If you want to keep the c clips then use the ends that are on the housing right now. Cut the right side farther in than the left and you will have the extra 7/8 stock that you need.
If you are going to use disc brakes then tell Moser up front and they will send you the flush mount housing ends. That way you will not have to do any machine work to the caliper brackets.
|01-21-2013 12:17 PM|
|01-21-2013 11:16 AM|
|big gear head||
Moser Engineering - Part # 7750 - Big Ford New Style/Torino Housing Ends - Housing Ends - Assorted Parts
This should be the one you need for the Explorer brakes. Check with Moser to be sure. If you use these housing ends you should have enough extra material on your short side so that you don't have to add anything, that is if you measure and cut right the frirst time. These ends will work with 3 or 3.125 tubes. They also work with other sizes as long as your welding skills are up to it.
|01-21-2013 11:02 AM|
|01-21-2013 10:56 AM|
|01-21-2013 10:42 AM|
If you're just narrowing one side to use two short axles and keeping the factory brakes, stay with the ends you have. I had the Ranger axle in my S-10 done this way by a reputable shop and they had to make the cuts on the large part of the tube, inboard of the swedge. I ended up with one Moser axle and one redrilled factory axle, hasn't caused any problems in it's 10 years of service.
|01-21-2013 07:18 AM|
I planned on using the brakes off the explorer but just redrill the rotors for the 5x4.75" bolt pattern of my wheels. Will those housing ends still work? Also are those ends set up to match up with the 2.75" section of the axle tube where it necks down or the full 3.25"?
Thanks for your reply!
|01-21-2013 07:03 AM|
|big gear head||
Moser Engineering - Part # 7700 - 1979-2004 8.8" Mustang Non-C-Clip Housing Ends - Housing Ends - Assorted Parts
Use these housing ends if you want to use the Mustang brakes. Use the 7900 ends if you want to use earlier Chevy brakes. These housing ends are about 2 1/2 inches thick, so you should be able to make up your 7/8 difference with them.
|01-20-2013 09:37 PM|
Oops. can a mod change the title to Narrowing Rearend for G-Body
|01-20-2013 09:36 PM|
Narrowing Rearend for G body
I am narrowing the 8.8 that is in my 86 cutlass to fix the pinion offset. I have purchased an alignment bar with the appropriate hubs. These are the measurements I have taken so far.
*Total width was measured from axle flange to axle flange (where the brake rotor sits): Total Width: 59"
The distance from the housing flange where the brake assembly bolts to the housing to where the rotor actually sits is 2.5" per side. (Total 5")
The distance from the Driver side housing flange to the center of the pinion: 28 7/8"
The distance from the Passenger side housing flange to the center of the pinion: 25 1/8"
28.875"+25.125"+5"=59" So my math for total width checks out for the 8.8"
It also tells me that the difference between the two sides is 3.75". So the pinion is offset 1.875" to the passenger side from center?
GM 7.5" G-Body
Total width Measured same way as above: 57 5/8" (I have seen most sites say 75 1/2"? I imagine the 1/8" difference is negligible and probably human error?)
**Most sites I have seen say that the pinion is offset 1/2" to the passenger side on these stock G-body rearends.
I measured from the Center of the pinion nut to both the passenger and driver side axle flange where the brake drum sits:
Driver: 29 3/8"
Passenger 28 1/4"
Difference: 1.125 so 9/16"? (Pretty close to 1/2")
What do you guys think about cutting the 8.8 down to 58" (Slightly wider than the stock ~57.5") And then all I do is find the middle of the total distance and add a half inch to the driver side and subtract a half inch from the passenger side to get my 1/2" offset to the passenger side.
58" total length from axle flange to axle flange.
58"-5" = 53" from housing flange to housing flange.
Driver Side 27"
Passenger Side 26"
One inch difference between each side so 1/2" from the center. The only that will stink about this is that I will have to add some metal (7/8") to the passenger side but can be taken from the (1 7/8") I need to take out from the driver side.
This is my first time so let me know what you guys think that have done this before. I wanted to get some more opinions before I put the rearend under the chop saw.
I was also thinking since I need to get new axles why not get the c clip eliminators that replace the outer housing ends with the bigger 9" bearings. Im not quite sure how they work or if I will really benefit from them. With disc brakes the caliper will hold the wheel on if the axle brakes wont it?
Thanks for your input,