|01-21-2013 05:37 AM|
|01-20-2013 08:37 PM|
|warrick||I'm building a gasser type car like dad ran but would be a street/strip use car to take to shows. Was looking at putting radaitor in trunk with electric fans ,55 GPM electric remote water pump. Was thinking of running a 5/8 or 3/4 line out of the rear of each head to a remote thermostat housing like the ones on blower intake. This is to just hide as many lines as possible. Still going to put water into the engine up front, but have been told that I could go into the center of the block on both sides also like some sprint cars are set up. Will be running small block chevy with a 6-71 blower.|
|01-19-2013 10:34 PM|
A simple tapped screw with a seal will allow bleed from multiple points if need be.
But not sure why you would want something like that. The water inside the head may be at an uneven temp on that part of the head. If you have a hot spot you may just want to run tje heatwr line out of that area and back to the pump that will pull fresh water into the hot area.
You may need to machine the head with a small lip for the thermostat seal. Also two thermostats do not work. But you can use several small orifices and run and open system. Keeps fluid moving across all surfaces if done right but usally getting the water in the raditator cold enough is all that is needed. Unless this is a mid engine build up. Big alum rad and good pump should sort it out.
|01-19-2013 10:16 PM|
Thermostat on wrong end
If I would tap and thread the heads at the bell housing area and use a remote thermostat housing there what would happen to the temp [hot spots]of the enigne if any. I know I would have to do some thing at the front to get air out because of the tilt of the engine?