|02-09-2013 11:11 AM|
I'm starting to think that people are not reading my post in close detail...
So as a report back: I chipped a few of those pimple looks spots ont he surface and I do not see any rust or other contamination under the pimple. This makes me think the problem might be air. I want to talk to the POR15 company and see what they think. Again, im not really worried since it wont show but Id like to learn how to use this product better.
|02-08-2013 02:51 PM|
Surface preparation: Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and
sandblasted surfaces are also good. Surface must be dry and free of
grease, oil, or other foreign substances.
TO COAT SMOOTH METAL SURFACES: First use Marine Clean to
clean and degrease the surface, when clean rinse with water and allow
area to dry. Second spray Metal Ready on surface full strength, keep wet
for 15-20 minutes then rinse with water and allow to completely dry. Use
of “rust converter” products is not recommended as they may affect
bonding of POR-15 to metal. POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with
“tooth” rather than smooth, glossy surfaces.
STIR CONTENTS THOROUGHLY before painting. Do not shake.
Refrigerate unused portion of POR-15 for longer shelf life.
It states to rinse off with water after you apply marine clean or metal ready, did you use any of those products? Simply rinsing blasted metal with water will just flash rust it and will cause problems down the road.
|02-08-2013 02:42 PM|
If you had clean blasted metal you should've just used coat of epoxy primer and then a couple coats of high build urethane primer and sand that and it would've been ready for paint.
|02-08-2013 08:38 AM|
|02-08-2013 07:27 AM|
|Alpha67||Looks like trapped air bubbles to me which can happen if you shake the can. It can also happen when applying to heavily with a brush (or depending on brush strokes) according to a comparable product I have used|
|01-28-2013 10:46 AM|
Some look like air pockets, some look like sand particles. Grab an ice pick and start probing. Air pockets may be from a contaminated surface.
Directions on a product are great when they work. These products are going to give simple instructions or most folk are not going to buy the product. Dawn is a good grease cutter. Many paints can't be shaken, they must be stirred. Regardless, until you figure out where you went wrong, this will continue to be a problem. A little sandpaper over the problem areas, a little probing with an ice pick, you should find the problem, then touch up from there.
|01-28-2013 10:02 AM|
|01-26-2013 04:24 PM|
|Lizer||anything should be degreased before painting it. Water is the worst thing you can use; it doesn't lift away or solubilize hydrophobic contaminants, and just results in the freshly blasted metal flash rusting.|
|01-25-2013 08:05 PM|
|Larry123||Maybe you could chip or cut one of the bumps off and see what's underneath, you might find your answer. Sand, air, rust.|
|01-25-2013 06:31 PM|
|496CHEVY3100||Dx330 is just a grease and wax remover,anybodys product would work ,just dont let it dry wipe on wipe off, Play sand does not contain silaca .it us banned in all exept industrial use here,then you must use partical respeatorr not dust mask,,never used alum oxide most people who have used it have no complaints.hope ypu solve your problem ,post when you find iy.|
|01-24-2013 10:10 AM|
I have never heard of cleaning the parts after blasting with anything more than water. I have never heard of dx330.
I thoguht about spray this stuff, but because the metal doesn't show I wasn't too worried it it didn't come out looking good.
I thought "Play" sand has even more silca in it then glass bead?
Doesn't the POR15 instruction say to apply in thin coats but apply at least 2-3 coats allowing time for the paint to "tack" in between coats?
|01-23-2013 10:13 PM|
|496CHEVY3100||I also brush the frame works great,but i spray it when it will be top coated with paint,must be covered if exposed to sun , Sun uv rays will work but shortens life. Great product i think.|
|01-23-2013 09:59 PM|
I've been using por15 for years and never seen anything like this. Did you shake the can? You can't do that because you get air bubles in the paint. You have to stir it really well but in a slower motion. I've had really good results and I love the stuff. I should mention that I don't use the prep stuff. I also have never sprayed it. It flows out like glass with a brush. I paint right over rust. Use a lot of paint as in a heavy coat and apply 2 or 3 coats. Recoat when coat is just tacky enough to leave your finger print.
|01-23-2013 06:21 PM|
|01-22-2013 10:04 AM|
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