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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-22-2013 07:40 AM
timothale
ford FE

Years ago I had a 58 Ford Convertible That came with the logo on the dash that said thunderbird police interceptor special. The Engine was the same as the Edsel 361, a 352 with 060 over pistons from the factory . the heads had the early milling machined combustion chambers, The problem was the spark plug threads at an angle left sharp points that would cause pinging if a the octane was not 105. It would overheat with hard driving and the heads warped after a couple months. It took 030 to get them flat and that upped the CR more. I had a buddy that was partners in a hemi rail and a tech at the ford dealership. He showed me how to rework the combustion chamber. grind out the spark plug points, round a few corners, remove some metal around the exhaust, then. port the heads to just smooth things, then a lot of grinding at the exhaust port to header area. I got an isky cam kit, It was a very early design, it came with 1.5 to 1 rockers, new push rods, valve springs, and retainers, That engine sounded like a fuel dragster. I added an edelbrock 3-2 manifold and used GM wcd carbs. I had an old sun tach and it would rev close to 7 K. I have been told that the cam grind was the same one isky used for big olds and chrysler engines. Once in a while you will see the 1.5 rockers on the Fe forums but I have never seen a cam listed.
01-22-2013 06:20 AM
mhh371
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueovalforever View Post
I have a fe engine that was in a 63 galaxie I got a few months ago. It had been sitting in a shop for years when I got it. It ran but not that well. Since I have got it I have done alot of work to it and have learned quite a bit about the engine. It is a new engine. Cam/lifters are new, double roller timing chain, bored, new pistons and very clean on the inside. Question is I am looking at swapping intakes because the old one seems to leaking at the gaskets. What is a good intake to run? It has a weiand on it now.
I may be a few years late on this...but I just joined and its a topic I can comment on. First, is your old manifold warped? The aluminum intakes are great at saving weight and typically flow better than the stock cast iron ones...but their width and the heat these engine bays can see can sure warp them in a hurry. Before you spend money on a new intake and filter through the list of what is available etc. You may want to run the engine and get it hot, then pull the intake off as quick as you can (should be a 10 minute jobs tops) and then put a straight edge down each side and see if you have any gaps beneath your edge...if you do the intake is junk and ready to be sold for scrap aluminum.

The comments were right on the Edelbrock performer. If you just need someone to flow a bit better and lighten the front axle, it is a good all around daily driver. If you can find an old Holley FE intake, they were pretty good and I ran one for years until swapping to a multi-carb set up.

Cheers.

Heath
05-04-2011 05:58 AM
blueovalforever Any input on intake gaskets?
05-01-2011 03:37 PM
1ownerT
Quote:
Originally Posted by rumptyrump
Ha - i think this fits your description, no?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orig-...Q5fAccessories
I should have included aluminum in my description but, yea. I have seen them with a hole corroded under the stamped isolator on the valley side and they still wanted a fortune for them.
05-01-2011 02:55 PM
blueovalforever Are the ebroc gaskets any good?
04-28-2011 11:51 PM
blueovalforever So it sounds like the rpm is a good choice. I have been running 87 gas. I'm hoping the intake switch with gain some bottom end tq. Any recommendations on good intake gaskets?
04-28-2011 05:32 PM
rumptyrump
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
Last time I looked for OE Ford FE intakes, people thought they were gold.
Ha - i think this fits your description, no?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Orig-...Q5fAccessories
04-28-2011 04:47 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueovalforever
I am going for a hot rod not original or a race car. The engine is bored and has new pistons, double roller timing chain, new cam, lifters, pushrods and from what I have been told 390 gt heads. Cam is unknown and from judging the way the pushrods and lifters are it is not broke in yet. No wear on cylinder walls either. Right now I'm fixing issues with it so I can drive it but this winter I am switching to a 3.25 gear and a set of Sanderson shorty headers, electric fan. Maybe next year I will put a little cam in for a little sound. I just switched to the duraspark hybrid ignition and put a new eddy 600 on it. Based on that info would you recommend the rpm a little more?
Based on that I recommend the RPM. I'd also recommend you put a degree wheel on the thing before you get it too put together and find out what the cam timing is. These days you can't use 100 plus octane to compensate for excessive compression and to miss with too low compression wastes fuel, under develops power and causes excessive pollution. So compression is intimately tied to cam timing so knowing how much timing and lift there is and when important events occur such as overlap and it's close friend Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) along with where the intake valve closes in terms of crank degrees have great affect upon needed compression. So I highly recommend you figure this cam out before you commit to putting the motor together because it will either cause you to adjust the parts that result in compression or change the cam to fit the compression you have. More duration, and/or lift, and/or rate of lift, and/or intake closing point goes late, and or the LSA gets smaller the more compression is needed to maintain power from idle thru the torque peak. The reverse of these works with lower compression. This waas always a ping prone motor and strangly, or not, it takes out he rod bearings often before the piston.

The FE except for the 1960 352 HP head is weak on squish/quench. You need to keep this clearance as tight as you can which will never be enough but it does a lot to make this engine more tolerant of needed compression ratios against today's unleaded fuels. The clearance that looks really good on this engine around .040 inch. Tighter would be nice but that takes hyper eutectic pistons whether cast of forged and really carefully controlled and tight skirt clearance, so .040 is the minimum and is really good for the FE. A multi-strike spark box is helpful with this motor as well. The spark plug is damn near in Siberia so getting consistent burns under the torque peak RPMs can be a problem. Giving the ignition multiple chances to start a fire helps the FE a lot. The FE is a nice engine but it was designed in a day when you could pull into the Hancock station and dial up fuel with so much lead the car sank into the pavement as the tank filled. You can't do that today, so you've got to improve upon the engineering to get out what it's got. Done right the FE's got a lot to give.

Bogie
04-28-2011 04:18 PM
blueovalforever I am going for a hot rod not original or a race car. The engine is bored and has new pistons, double roller timing chain, new cam, lifters, pushrods and from what I have been told 390 gt heads. Cam is unknown and from judging the way the pushrods and lifters are it is not broke in yet. No wear on cylinder walls either. Right now I'm fixing issues with it so I can drive it but this winter I am switching to a 3.25 gear and a set of Sanderson shorty headers, electric fan. Maybe next year I will put a little cam in for a little sound. I just switched to the duraspark hybrid ignition and put a new eddy 600 on it. Based on that info would you recommend the rpm a little more?
04-28-2011 04:05 PM
1ownerT
Quote:
Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Ford had a couple good stock intakes if you can find them. I'm trying to remember but I think the good one has an "S" on it, came in some police cars.
I have ran a few of the old stock cast iron Ford units and was basically happy but they weigh 77 pounds, about 60 of which you can eliminate with an aluminum one.
Last time I looked for OE Ford FE intakes, people thought they were gold.
04-28-2011 02:49 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueovalforever
So if there is a little difference it won't hurt?
We're just not used to people who aren't trying to wring the last foot pound of torque and horsepower out of an engine. If all you're looking for is basically a stock rebuild then the Performer is just fine.

From a hot rodders stand point the FE, with few exceptions, is an under-ported, under-valved engine with not the best of intakes and box that Ford is pleased to call an exhaust manifold. So we usually greet this engine with a die grinder, over-sized valves and Serdi seat mill, a big intake, headers or if you can afford them we just get a pair of Edlebrock or Blue Thunder heads. So that's where most of us are coming from with this engine, we're just not used to more or less stock rebuilds.

This engine desperately needs headers and duals, probably more than any other engine. So include these in your budget. The reduction in back pressure with the addition of some organization to the exhaust flows beyond dumping everything into a cereal box manifold greatly enhances both power and fuel mileage with the FE engine.

The Performer will at the least get about 50 pounds off the engine and reduces the possibility of your falling headlong into the engine compartment as often happens while trying to get the cast iron version installed.


Bogie
04-28-2011 02:33 PM
techinspector1 You'll never feel it in the seat of your pants. Probably wouldn't see it on a dragstrip time slip either. I built a 455 Olds one time to do an engine swap into my son's '72 LUV pickup. Bone stock motor, the truck went 102 mph. I took the heads off and spent over 20 hours blending bowls and port matching. Bolted 'em back on and the truck went 103 mph.
04-28-2011 01:42 PM
blueovalforever So if there is a little difference it won't hurt?
04-28-2011 12:11 AM
techinspector1 If you study fluid dynamics, you'll find out that there is little flow of any gas or liquid around the perimeter of the vessel. Most of it is right down the middle, same as a river. Look at the banks, is the water flowing as quickly next to the bank as it is out in the middle of the river?

I have never worried about port matching for another reason, too. Reminds me of looking at an Anaconda that swallowed a pig. When you have a material flowing through a vessel and the diameter opens up, like when you port match, the material slows down at that point. In this case, we're dealing with an air/fuel mixture and when it slows down, the fuel drops out of suspension. Who knows what happens to the puddle of fuel on the floor of the vessel at that point. Maybe it's picked back up when the r's go up and enters the cylinder as a big hunk of rich mixture. Whatever, it can't be good. Leave the passages alone and enjoy your time doing something constructive.
04-27-2011 11:41 PM
blueovalforever Ok so how about the port match to the heads? I hear mixed answers from they match up to you have to match the heads to the intake to if there is a difference it doesn't matter
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