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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> LETS talk PANEL ADHESIVE
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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-24-2013 05:35 PM
Old Fool Drill a few holes and use some pop rivets
01-24-2013 11:41 AM
MARTINSR You can be right, I didn't think about the removal. However, the adhesives arch nemesis is heat. Apply some heat be it with a torch or inductor or something and it will just about fall off leaving a residue you would remove with a 3M "surface conditioning disc". But it's a lot of work still, I highly recommend a bolt end design.

01-24-2013 11:25 AM
cyclopsblown34 The only way the panel adhesives are removable is if they're put on dirty or rusty metal. If you use it properly on clean metal, you won't be able to remove it without some serious tools and damage.
01-24-2013 08:16 AM
MARTINSR Will it hold? Let me put it this way, following the BMW factory guidelines for slicing the front frame rail on a 2010 7 series you cut the frame rail off a little behind the rad support. You get the new frame rail and cut the part you need off it. They have a sleeve you stick into the frame rail. You bond the whole thing in there with structural adhesive with NOTHING but the adhesive holding the front of the rail with bumper, rad support and all mounted to it, is that strong enough?

Yes you could bond it all in. But I would think more about making something that your speakers bolt to in such a way that all you need is a few bolts here and there to hold it in. The bolts can even go where there are holes already. I have found that there is usually enough holes all over the car to do things like this, new ones don't need to be made if you are after keeping it all original.

01-24-2013 08:15 AM
69 widetrack I would think that a product like 3M's 8116 (or 8115) Body Panel Adhesive would do the job....if they can hold quarter panels on a car I'm confident that it would hold your application in place. 3M is always an expensive product but I know that it works....Norton and other manufacturer's also make similar products that I'm sure would work and possibly be more wallet friendly...I've used mostly 3M and have faith in that product.

Hope this helps.

01-24-2013 05:31 AM

Hello. This is truthfully going to somewhat off the wall for what the stuff is normally used for...
here's the scoop,
I'm finally going to get my SS back on the road..
I like my music and I like full sound...
I'll be adding a sub ,but I also hate the rattles it causes, and the boom boom boom louder outside the car than inside..
I'm not into the boom like those into rap music are.. but I like my lower bass.. not so loud the world can hear it but.. there..
so the 1978-88 g.m. g-bodies (monty carlo and clones) have a shelf behind the rear seat, just like the a.bodies before them..
my plan is to make a remove able panel that close off the shelf area from the trunk, so the rear speakers are closed off from the trunk area..
was thinking panel adhesive to mount the latches or piano hinge(s) to do this...
I could just weld in whatever but the body in this car is so,so clean..
I'm try'n to not mod it in any way that can't be undone and/or cause rust.. and the underside of the area I'd weld to is hard to get to ,to recoat with primer/etc to protect from the rust monster..

as anyone thats ever owned a g-body knows the factory speaker locations/sizes blow 3.5" dash , 4x10 rear deck..
the panel will also keep the eyeballs at bay at shows.. so the gear isn't screaming "steal me"

now to the question.. with the adhisive hold a somewhat light panel with all that viberation the box would be subject to.. I'd think so.. as most home speaker cab's are pressed/glued sheet
the panel will mostlikely be alum reinforced fiberglass.. and rear seat foam with holes,, as no ones sat in the seat since
the hacked seat will be a replacement also. as the one in car is spotless..

ha sorry for the book.. guess the question is will it hold or not..

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