|01-27-2013 08:39 AM|
It could be how heavy it's being applied too. I have an Optima gun that has an "atomizing control" where you can turn it down so with the same air volume and paint volume have very little atomization.
One time I painted a vintage Wayne fuel pump with the gun using a Urethane SS and I didn't want to move it and painted it in the shop turning the atomization way down so as to not get red overspray all over everything. It sprayed out just fine, a lot of texture but shiny and just fine for this gas pump. That sucker took days to cure, it was days and still in dust as I remember!
The trapped solvents were preventing it from curing. Just a thought
|01-27-2013 07:06 AM|
|deadbodyman||Ful-thane 8:1:2 or 8:2:1 My memory aint what it used to be..Use the nason accellerator in a small glass bottle just a few drops should do...Use very thin (see through) coats and let flash well between coats...Too much at once ,not only raises the gloss and slows the dring but will cause an uneven sheen. wouldnt you want to use the trim black insted of regular black thats been flattend or is the trim black too shinny...|
|01-27-2013 03:12 AM|
|01-22-2013 11:24 AM|
nason ful-thane isn't made for flattening, use something like dupont centari or emron. when using emron use the accelerator in it so it will dry and also only use 1 coat 1 and 1/2 at most. you can get either in any gloss level you want. anytime using a color with low gloss level leave plenty of flash time in between coats. rushing the paint will only cause the gloss level to be higher.
|01-21-2013 12:24 PM|
if it is a full urethane and you don't have baking facilities where your painting (even if you do it takes forever to cure)...depending on temperature it will take a week to air cure....(I recently used urethane satin black on a model T frame...it stayed shiny for about 5 to 6 days before it started to get dull and attain the finish I wanted...I expected this and told the customer to be patient before I painted the frame...today it looks fine).
If your not having luck with base and flattening agent in the clear and your using Dupont, in the future perhaps try their Acrylic Urethane, if memory serves me correctly, they do have a prepackaged flat, semi, and satin finish in black for these colors...it should air dry faster and give you the finish your looking for.
hope this helps
|01-20-2013 09:23 PM|
You could park a halogen work lamp over them. Heat them up somehow.
May work. Just sayin.
Dont ruin your oven. but if you had a junker oven...
Leave wifeys stuff alone LOL
|01-20-2013 09:20 PM|
|jsm1847||Thanks for the reply. The tires are still on the rims. And my wife will freak out because of the smell!!!|
|01-20-2013 09:17 PM|
|01-20-2013 09:10 PM|
|01-20-2013 09:04 PM|
|panhead1961||you did put the activator in it ...right?|
|01-20-2013 07:42 PM|
The wife may threaten to never cook in the oven again, but you could put the wheel in there at about 200 and let it sit till cured, maybe an hour.
I know it sounds crazy, it may well cure the paint.
What could go wrong ....
|01-20-2013 05:25 PM|
Black ful-thane not drying?
I've got this customer who had me paint flat black wheels. For one, I'm having trouble flattening the paint(pre flattened from paint store). For two, the stupid paint hasn't fully dried. I still have to tape up and paint another color....
I am painting with NASON Ful-thane which was recommended to me for flat colors from my paint store. I have tried flattening clear, with terrible results every time. I mean I can make it happen, but I am never satisfied with the results. Too glossy sometimes, to dusty ect. I've also spent almost 100 bucks on a "flat" Emron system. No dice. Takes like 8 dang days to dry. My goodness.
I'm needing these out like today and thinking of just putting a primer or solid black base with hardener (over tacky thane) to flatten. I shouldn't have to ghetto this out just to make it flat. What gives? Any suggestions?