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Need help tuning my Edelbrock 600 cfm carb

53K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  RWENUTS 
#1 ·
I have a Chevy 350, with a cam just big enough not to lose my power breaks (dont know exact specs), dual plane intake, 600 cfm Edelbrock carb w/elect choke (10 years old), elect ignition w/vaccum advance. Car has not been run much other than in my drive way, around neighvborhood, and a few times down a country road jumping on it a few times for a few blocks. Right now I have the timing advanced a bit to keep it from shutting off. When I jump on the gas pedel, it hesitates then kicks in and runs good. I'm being told it needs to be re jetted due to the large cam, one says the eccelorator pump might be bad, which will cause the hesitation. I heard on one blog that the 1406 Edelbrock 600 cfm w/elect choke is set up at manufacturer to get better gas mileage not performance like the 1405 (manual choke) version and that rejeting with 1405 specs did wonders for his car. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
#3 ·
After you get the timing set to spec, then you get to play with the carb. Yes, the 1406 is set up a bit leaner for mileage purposes but that's 'as shipped'. You will need a copy of the Edelbrock Performer carb owners manual and you will need to spend some time reading it as it can be confusing the first couple passes through. You will then need at least a 1487 calibration kit, but the 1479 kit has a better selection of choices (Carburetor Calibration Kits - SummitRacing.com).

Owner's manual for the 1404 through the series of carbs: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/1000/1404_manual.pdf (it loads slowly:smash:)

This is all there is to them - and one of my 1405's with the electric choke add-on

 
#4 ·
I have the vacuum hooked up to the manifold vacuum port. Dont know the exact setting of the timing but I know it is advanced quite a bit. I'm going to play with the timing and get that dialed in like you guys recommend. After that I'll work on the carb. I appreciate your help guys. Will let yall know how it works out.
 
#5 ·
Whenever ignition timing is mentioned, I wonder if the poster is aware that the TDC mark on the inertia ring of the harmonic damper is capable of rotating on the elastomeric material that separates the inertia ring from the hub. If that has happened (very common), it will be impossible to set the ignition timing correctly. Please read through this tutorial.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Determining_top_dead_center
 
#7 ·
#12 ·
When setting the timing, get all the intial you can - without making hard starts (difficult to tell without knowing cam specs). Edelbrock carbs work much better with more intial timing. If you can get it to 14-16 intital, you will probably see a difference with the stumble. May also need more (dought it would be less) of a shot of gas (pump adjustment). Take others advice and get the timing set and read the manual - you will learn much more by reading the book than just playing with the carb.
 
#13 ·
if it stumbles off idle and then accelerates try replacing the metering rod spring to a stiffer spring I use the plain steel as a base line. kit # is Edelbrock PN 1464. make sure the metering rods float in the bore freely they will get sticky over time (especially if the car sets up over long periods) and make you think something bad is going on. Timing 8-12 degrees advanced without vacuum advance hooked up. also vacuum advance should be plugged into carb above the throttle plate not to manifold vac
 
#14 ·
Whether to use ported or manifold vacuum is a subject that has filled many threads. Suffice to say it depends on the combo and how much initial timing is being used. In cases where </= 12 degrees of initial timing is used (and the vacuum advance is limited to 10-12 degrees of added advance like is recommended for a performance ignition advance setup), manifold vacuum almost always works better than ported vacuum.

A cam that's barely able to supply enough vacuum to operate power brakes in a 350 sized engine is big enough to need timing in the area of 16-18 degrees as a starting point. When using a stock distributor this will usually mean the mechanical advance has to be limited to keep the total timing (initial plus mechanical, no vacuum added to this figure) from going higher than 36 degrees BTDC for non fast burn heads. Fast burn heads (Vortec, etc.) use 30-32 degrees BTDC as a starting point.
 
#15 ·
no disagreement here, but we don't know what his vac numbers are we don't know the cam specs or any other info on engine condition. it stumbles off idle i acceleration which sounds more carb than timing so I offered a base line. if the engine vac is so low it wont run brakes, vac advance dist is probably not the best choice anyway.
 
#16 ·
People seem to be hard of hearing lately.
Timing first!!
16-20 degrees initial.
Hook vac advance to ported or manifold. Your motor will let you know which it likes.
THen if you still have a stumble work on the carb.
It's been that way since the beginning of time.
Timing first, carb second!!!
 
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