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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-13-2013 02:07 PM
eric32 Hello guys I know its been almost a month and I finally found out my problem almost by accident. I brought my truck up to my dad's house so we had a warm place to be able to have some time to check things out. Well we looked and checked everything all over the distributor again and could not understand why it was running horrible. I took it out on the highway and it all of a sudden just quit and would not start anymore. We had control module checked and it turned out fine and also the coil was good. Well here is the kicker he said only thing left to check was the pickup and I said I never heard of those going bad just the modules or coils but he said they can so when he went to check it turns out one of the wires the green one that hooks up to the control module was not in the boot very well and there for made for a short and loose connection. He pushed it back in and boom we had fire again and the missing part sound like its maybe a exhaust leak.Some times the simple things are not found right away but a nice simple fix. Thanks guys for your input and advice appreciate it.
eric
02-01-2013 08:42 PM
455olds What about the pickup coil? They can get brittle and arc out as the vacuum advance moves the plate the ignition module sits on. I had one fail once the engine got warmed up. Easy to test, disconnect it from the module and check across the leads with ohmmeter (should be 500-1500 ohms, I think wires are green and white). Check from each leg to ground it should read infinite, be sure to move the plate as you do these tests to see if they short when moved. I also helped my cousin with a similar issue, he was missing a ground strap from the HEI coil to the wiring plug on the cap. It ran great then all of a sudden did not even though the ground was missing for quite some time.
01-31-2013 07:50 PM
cobalt327 eric32, I took a look at a thread you had about a carb: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/opin...ml#post1340147.

If this is the same carb you're now using, I have a concern. You mentioned the air bleed bypass in the center of the carb. Said that you were "going to leave it out for now", or words to that effect. Which should have been fine...

But, if you removed the air bypass jet entirely, that could have created a vacuum leak- IF the center channel has been opened up already. If that is the case, the orifice that the air bleed occupies needs to be either blocked off entirely w/an undrilled jet, or have a small diameter hole drilled to provide an air bypass to let a big cam idle w/o opening the primaries too far, ala the BG Idle Eze.

Just because the channel was supposed to be closed off, I wouldn't take that as gospel. I'd check it to be positive.
01-31-2013 05:59 PM
NEW INTERIORS
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
What does a vacuum gauge reading look like? Have you done a compression test?

What about the float level? You mentioned the plugs were gas fouled- that should not be happening. Fuel pressure excessive? Plugged air bleeds? Blown power valve? See if it'll stay running or stall out when you screw the idle mixture screws all the way in (count the turns so you can return them to where they were, or plan on readjusting the idle mixture, engine fully warmed up).

Could be too-tight valves. Might be time to bite the bullet and adjust the valves w/the engine running. That way there's no doubt where zero lash is. I'd still check for vacuum leaks, etc. first.

Another thing to look at is the rotor phasing.
That's what I was leading up to in post 10..
01-31-2013 05:42 PM
sparkchaser
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32 View Post
Hello guys well I am going to hook up my vacuum gauge and check for leaks but idle is fine and shows no signs of one but I still will check. As far as taking my truck. To a shop there is one that is good and that was about two years ago and I ended up paying two hundred dollars plus just for them to tell me it might need a new coil. Heck the amout of money I paid them I could of had to new distributors for that cost. Only funds thrown at this so far is 30 bucks for a set of wires cause everything else I had extra. I will check with vacuum gauge then do a compression test as last resort. This problem has persisted to keep happenning and the very last thing I will do is bring it to a shop and once again have a scope put on it. Thanks guys. As far as rotor phasing I. Have had two different caps on and still have the issue and I don't know how to check that but will do a google search.
You say you went to a shop that was good and they charged over $200 just to scope an engine. Sounds like a bunch of rip-off artists to me. It's a shame you can't find a good shop, a scope will show exactly which cylinder or cylinders are dropping out and whether or not they are the same or random.
A scope and someone who can read it turns ignition problems into a ten minute job instead of hours of guesswork.
Sadly, tune up shops seem to be dying out due to newer cars not needing the attention our old hot rods do. a good shop with good equipment can find components degrading long before they give problems.
01-31-2013 03:26 PM
cobalt327 eric32, there's a link to info on rotor phasing (from MSD) in my previous post, in case you missed it. It involves using a cap cut out so you can see the relationship of the rotor tip to the plug terminals.

Good luck.
01-31-2013 09:34 AM
eric32 Hello guys well I am going to hook up my vacuum gauge and check for leaks but idle is fine and shows no signs of one but I still will check. As far as taking my truck. To a shop there is one that is good and that was about two years ago and I ended up paying two hundred dollars plus just for them to tell me it might need a new coil. Heck the amout of money I paid them I could of had to new distributors for that cost. Only funds thrown at this so far is 30 bucks for a set of wires cause everything else I had extra. I will check with vacuum gauge then do a compression test as last resort. This problem has persisted to keep happenning and the very last thing I will do is bring it to a shop and once again have a scope put on it. Thanks guys. As far as rotor phasing I. Have had two different caps on and still have the issue and I don't know how to check that but will do a google search.
01-31-2013 04:29 AM
cobalt327 What does a vacuum gauge reading look like? Have you done a compression test?

What about the float level? You mentioned the plugs were gas fouled- that should not be happening. Fuel pressure excessive? Plugged air bleeds? Blown power valve? See if it'll stay running or stall out when you screw the idle mixture screws all the way in (count the turns so you can return them to where they were, or plan on readjusting the idle mixture, engine fully warmed up).

Could be too-tight valves. Might be time to bite the bullet and adjust the valves w/the engine running. That way there's no doubt where zero lash is. I'd still check for vacuum leaks, etc. first.

Another thing to look at is the rotor phasing.
01-31-2013 03:58 AM
EOD Guy Intake manifold leak
01-30-2013 07:45 PM
vicrod
x2 sparkc

Bad PCV valve or other vacuum leak.

vicrod
01-30-2013 06:07 PM
sparkchaser You need to take your car to a competent tune up shop that has an ignition analyzer scope and an exhaust gas analyzer. With a scope, you can "see" the exact cause of the problem without throwing parts at it.
01-30-2013 05:33 PM
eric32 Nothing wrong with valves as I have rolled rockers and they are locked and sound normal. As far as compression test goes it has been running fine then all of a sudden it developed the issues it has. I have checked so many things I don't know what else to do. The misfire is random and is not at just any particular cylinder and is happening on both sides.
01-30-2013 11:36 AM
NEW INTERIORS Did you do a compression test ??
Did you happen to mess with the valves ??
01-30-2013 10:36 AM
eric32 Well guys I am posting back and I changed out all my plug wires with a brand new set and I checked thema ll before putting them on and they all have 1000 ohms of resistence or less so they are good. So I have put a new coil and cap along with a control module in the distributor which is less then two years old and I put new plug wires on. I just installed a brand new battery and all the ground wires are all new and have all been checked and I get a good 13.75 to 14 volts at the distributor when running. I also put a new set of plugs in and after all this stuff I still have the miss firing on both sides and you can hear it at the exhaust pipe as it makes a poof sound when it happens. I have checked the idle mixture screws and basic settings on the carburetor and its all fine wise there. Any suggestions on anything else to check. I am at a lost here.
Thanks
Eric
01-19-2013 05:26 PM
eric32 JHello guys just a update here i wanted to double check my wires and I had one that was either dead or it just would not read on multimeter cause of being that bad. I went ahead and bought a set of wires from autozone and each wire has only about 1k or resistance or less so there way better then the autolite ones so hopefully this will cure my problem. Thanks for tips.
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