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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-04-2013 09:06 PM
396chevelle
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
disable one spark plug wire at a time while listening. This will ID a rod bearing and which cylinder.
Remove the valve coves and watch the rockers travel ( cam lobe)

Next time don't use a ZDDP additive. Use a oil that has the Zinc in it already. (many racing oils)
Sometimes it just plain dumb luck.
Nice that the builder is going to work with you, on it. Yup a good time to upgrade the cam.
A noise that disappears when the motor is warmed up is piston to wall clearance.

A noise that disappears when a cylinder is disabled and comes back when spark is restored is a rod bearing.
Can also be a exhaust system leak. And they can sound like a bearing.
Auto trans flex plate/ring gear crack is common. Exhaust leak is common.
Loose flywheel bolts. Cracked crank pulley. Mechanical fuel pump. Loose cam gear bolts.
Actually, the oil I used was Joe Gibbs should have the right amount of ZDDP in it. I knew not to use the additive. I tried the pulling the spark plug wire on each cylinder one at a time with no change. Altough the knock almost goes away once its warm. The car doesnt smoke and the oil pressure is good. It knock also goes away if you run the rpms up just a bit. Its a solid knock, so I eliminated the exhaust. I checked the flexplate and bolts. 2 Questions Mechanical fuel pump I've heard that it could happen. How do you determine if its that causing it. If it is piston to wall clearance what could have caused it? Thanks
02-04-2013 08:45 PM
F-BIRD'88 disable one spark plug wire at a time while listening. This will ID a rod bearing and which cylinder.
Remove the valve coves and watch the rockers travel ( cam lobe)

Next time don't use a ZDDP additive. {I am not totally convinced that the concentrated bottle of ZDDP mixes well with the oil just by dumping it in} Use a oil that has the Zinc anti wear in it already. (many racing oils)
Sometimes it just plain dumb luck.
Nice that the builder is going to work with you, on it. Yup a good time to upgrade the cam.
A noise that disappears when the motor is warmed up is piston to wall clearance.

A noise that disappears when a cylinder is disabled and comes back when spark is restored is a rod bearing.
Can also be a exhaust system leak. And they can sound like a bearing. Header flange/collector flange gasket
Auto trans flex plate/ring gear crack is common. Exhaust leak is common.
Loose flywheel bolts. Cracked crank pulley. Mechanical fuel pump. Loose cam gear bolts.
02-04-2013 08:35 PM
vinniekq2 maybe make friends with someone(or pay a local) to represent you at the shop?If it was a shop near me,I would say ship me the engine and I would drive down to the shop with the crate and stand there and watch.Im sure if they are a good shop they will help you to some degree.I know most shops dont warrant "race" engines
02-04-2013 08:16 PM
396chevelle
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
not blaming you but,if there is going to be a problem,its going to be right away most of the time.I hope the builder helps you out.I hope when you get it back in its home,you drive the car hard in the first few days.To make it easier on the builder and show good faith,you should offer to pay for an upgrade to a roller cam while it is apart.If its mild,use a hydraulic roller.Let him make a couple bucks on the cam and he will likely be ok with helping you out.
If its not to far,drive the engine down there and be there when they take it apart?Let him explain what happened while you are looking at it. a picture is worth a 1,000 words. example; if the oil pick up is sitting in the bottom of the pan,,,not a thing you did would cause that.It takes 15 minutes to take an engine apart,,,
That does make since that if there is going to be a problem it would be earlier on. I just can't think of anything I could have done. Not alot of drive time on it and rarely getting on it. Heck, its supposed to have all the goodies down bottom, so it really should'nt matter anyway, but I do understand what your saying. I do remember him being 2 months behind on my motor and him telling me he had a guy out and they were working to get it out soon. Sure hope everything was torqued right, but then again you would think like you said that it would have aready happen. Not sure!! Wish, I could go up there when they take it apart, but It is way to far to drive. Im going to have to get him to take pictures. I will take your advice on the roller camshaft. I should have done that from the get go!!
02-04-2013 07:22 PM
vinniekq2 not blaming you but,if there is going to be a problem,its going to be right away most of the time.I hope the builder helps you out.I hope when you get it back in its home,you drive the car hard in the first few days.To make it easier on the builder and show good faith,you should offer to pay for an upgrade to a roller cam while it is apart.If its mild,use a hydraulic roller.Let him make a couple bucks on the cam and he will likely be ok with helping you out.
If its not to far,drive the engine down there and be there when they take it apart?Let him explain what happened while you are looking at it. a picture is worth a 1,000 words. example; if the oil pick up is sitting in the bottom of the pan,,,not a thing you did would cause that.It takes 15 minutes to take an engine apart,,,
02-04-2013 06:55 PM
396chevelle Well guys thanks for the advice! I've been pretty sick to my stomach. I've got the motor almost ready to pull. I was going to finish pulling it on my off day and then pull the pan and see what's going on, but I really started thinking about the whole thing which got me more angry. Yes, there is a 1yr warranty on the motor and I'm at exactly 1yr and 2 months, but other than the 4hr dyno time (Per shop statement) I may have driven a total of 500 miles max in that time frame. Always using oil with zddp since It has a flat tappet cam in it. Really no reason for it to be doing what its doing. Im curious to know what has happened. I decided to call the shop that built it and he was pretty cool about it and told me to pay the shipping there and back and they would break it down to see what happened and if it was there fault they would take care of the expense, but if it was my fault they would do the labor for free, but I would have to pay for the parts. Thats pretty good!!! But lets see how it goes!! Oe thing I'm worried about is I can't investigate for my self because I don't want it to look like I tampered with it by breaking things loose. Clearly I've done nothing to cause this. t could be very easy for them to say I have. Sounds like a straight up guy, but I don't know. I'm not sure what it is, but it definitly sounds like its coming from the crank area using my "Mechanics Stethescope". Sound was louder toward the middle of the pan. Anyway, guess the decision on who's fault it is lies in his hands. Thanks again for the replies and next time I will build it myself. Less Stress. Father passed years ago and the last motor I built with him was 20yrs ago, so I figured I'd pay someone else. Over the past 2 days I went back looking at my fathers manuals and some of it started coming back pretty quick! Sure wish the old man was still here to help me with this one.
02-03-2013 09:17 AM
455olds I would at least call the place you got the engine from, maybe if you ask nice they will still help you. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
02-03-2013 12:56 AM
tresi If the motor is making metal the thing to do is to tear it down before you run it anymore and find out where it's coming from. A spun bearing will get worse fast. If caught early it might just need a rod resized or the block aligned honed along with a rering kit. Oil pressure will start dropping if a motor has spun a bearing. It may get harder to crank over as well.
There is really no limit how bad it can get if a spun bearing is allow to continue to run. If you're lucky it will just lock up. If you're not so lucky it could tear up a bearing bore passed the point of repairing or even break a rod and the broken piece of rod could punch a hole in the block.
When you tear it down don't forget to take a good look at the cam and lifters. You might be starting to loose a lobe off the cam.
02-02-2013 10:16 PM
vinniekq2 pull it apart,measure everything,check crank for straight if its forged. If a bearing is spun,plan on resizing the rods. Now when you put it back together you will know every single detail.Aim for a perfect blue print.The learning experience,though expensive will be worth it.
remember,perfection is acceptable
02-02-2013 07:49 PM
396chevelle
Spun bearing?

Ok, short and to the point. I had a 496 built and shipped to 1yr 1 month ago which the warranty ended at 1 yr. Being this was a weekend cruiser I haven't driven it a whole lot, and I only took it to the track a twice shifting at 5,500 rpm. What I'm getting at is not much use in a year! Well I heared it rattling the other day when I first cranked it, but it went away after it warmed up. So I cranked it again yesterday same thing, but louder so I got my mechanic stethoscope out and I can hear it in the center of the pan. Drained the oil and the oil had metallic dust with a little metal in it ( I stuck a magnet in the oil and let it sit over night) I also cut the oil filter, but it was clean! I've always went concervative on motors, so if there was a problem with motor you had some metal left to work with (Bore it) 1st time going with a stroked motor. If its a bearing can the motor be repaired or is it shot and I need a new block? I'm not familiar with stroked motors. I can't believe it's spun a bearing already with no abuse! Unbelievable, but guess what I missed the warranty by 1 month thousands lost. Makes me sick! Gonna pull the pan once I pull it to see how bad it is.
Thank for your input?

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